Tannic Panic! Issue #91: Torrontés Cada Vez
Scaling the Andes to "visit" Argentina’s flagship white wine (AKA drinking Torrontés at home)
Here’s a terrible idea – instead of flowers this Valentine’s day, treat that special someone to a bottle of Torrontés. Why? They’re more or less the same thing if you close your eyes. (Cue intro sequence)
Actually, Torrontés is better than flowers if you think about it, because you can drink it and it’s wine (gasp!). If you’ve never imbibed a bottle made from this variety, there’s never been a better time to expand your humble horizons and give it a gander. It’s a unique style and an incredible source of value with the vast majority of bottles we’ve found ranging from just under the $10 mark to a little over $15 (there’s a couple of outliers if you’re feeling really fancy), and the general level of quality is such that the real outliers are bottles that miss.
TORRONTÉS, THE GRAPE
Torrontés is Argentina's iconic white grape, a highly aromatic variety that produces wines with intense floral aromas (jasmine, rose, geranium), accompanied by citrus and stone fruit flavors like lemons, peaches, and nectarines.
DID YOU KNOW… DNA “sleuths” have determined that Torrontés is the unwanted “love child” of Muscat of Alexandria (an ancient, super-aromatic grape) and a grape called Mission (brought by Spanish colonists).
In many ways, Torrontés is reminiscent of other aromatic white grapes like Muscat (mommy dearest), Gewürztraminer, and Riesling. But unlike these varieties, which can often be sweet or off-dry, Torrontés is typically made in a dry style. This wonderful little variety is well-suited to Argentina's climate, particularly in high altitude regions like Salta, Mendoza, and La Rioja (not the same as the one in España), where this humble white berry “thrives” and produces some of South America’s most distinctive white wines.
KEY REGIONS
The key regions for Torrontés production in Argentina (because that’s where over 90% of Torrontés comes from) include Salta, Mendoza, La Rioja, San Juan, and Tucumán. Salta is particularly well known for producing some of the best Torrontés wines, thanks to its unrealistically high-altitude vineyards in the Andes Mountains (some over 3000m, or 9840 feet of elevation). These conditions enhance the grape's aromatic compounds, preserve its acidity, and result in wines with crisp acidity and a “refreshing” profile. Additionally, the dry continental climate helps protect the grape from diseases like mildew, making it well-suited for the region. This combination of climate and geography results in wines that are generally produced in a fresh and crisp style (LIKE ME!), with most being consumed young to preserve their vibrant aromas and acidity.
As is the case with just about every white wine varietal “these days” some producers “experiment” with oak aging and other secondary tactics in an effort to create more complex and elegant wines. But as is often the case with aromatic varieties, winemaking techniques that obscure the varietal character can often come at the detriment of the final product. This is illustrated by the use of lees aging in one of the bottles we reviewed below, where a pungent cheesy character really diminished what otherwise may have been a beautiful bouquet of aromatics.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR 100PT RATING SYSTEM WORKS]
1. 2023 Phebus Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina / $10
Profile: Freshly cut lemon, lime peel, passionfruit, pear, flint, hint of rubber
Palate: Dry, medium acid, medium+ body, medium+ finishReally nice wine, though relatively simple and not nearly as intensely aromatic or pronounced in flavor as I was expecting. Reminded me of a sauvignon blanc actually, just hold the green notes and reduce the acid and intensity. For those of you “would-be” NZ sauv blanc lovers, save for the acidity and intensity, this might be your new fave. This wine would go amazingly alongside a white wine pasta dish – think coastal Italian dinner (THE VEGAN KIND!). Fantastic meal-side accompaniment, and great to drink chilled on its own. For $10, I would gladly grab this again.
Score Breakdown: Balance 34 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 13 / Length 13 / Complexity 6 = 86 points (I)
2. 2024 El Esteco Extremos Torrontes, Salta, Argentina / $15
Profile: Jasmine, orange blossom, rose, orange, peach, apricot, pineapple, chalky minerality, a little metallic on the palate
Palate: Dry, high acid, full body, long finishExtremely floral, beautiful aromatics. White flowers and roses, fresh orange, ripe peach and apricot and some chalky minerality on the nose with a little metallic twang on the palate. Like the Phebus, almost got a hint of effervescence initially, but that was completely gone when revisited later. The flavors are concentrated and the finish is long, albeit a touch bitter (tied in with the metallic taste). I personally think this wine is fantastic for under $15 and would recommend strongly to anyone who likes a dry and aromatically intense floral wine.
Score Breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 18 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 92 points (I)
3. 2020 Alta Vista Estate Torrontes, Salta, Argentina / $16
Profile: Ripe pineapple, lemon peel, diesel, sharp cheddar cheese, mango, honey, jasmine
Palate: Dry, medium+ body, medium+ acid, medium finishThe first aromas when I opened this wine were sharp cheddar cheese and a strong diesel-like smell (NOT THE GOOD KIND!). After some “air,” these aromas dissipated a little bit to reveal some tropical fruits, citrus, honey and floral notes. This wine was aged on its lees for 3 months, which likely explains the strong cheesy aroma. I found the wine to be just OK after the initial aromas subsided a bit, but really lacking in balance or freshness that I would expect in a good example of the aromatic Torrontes grape. IMHO the winemaker’s decision to use “lees aging” was an unwelcome distraction from the vibrant aromatic characteristics that often reveal themselves prominently in well made Torrontes wines.
Score breakdown: Balance 32 / Aroma / Flavor 13 / Concentration 13 / Length 11 / Complexity 6 = 75 points (Z)
4. 2021 Loscano Vineyards The Winemaker’s Torrontés, Salta, Argentina / $17
Profile: Ripe peach, ripe pineapple, cantaloupe melon, lemon peel, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, chamomile, wet stone, flint
Palate: Dry, medium body, high acid, long finishVery vibrant peach, tropical fruit and floral notes beautifully balanced by a prominent flinty minerality. This wine was impressively rich and concentrated for only $11* with a great balance of acidity, ripe tropical fruits and unprecedented length and complexity for such a pedestrian price point. Highly recommend this if you are a fan of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and are looking to change things up slightly.
*I found this wine for $11 at a local shop, but WineSearcher avg = $17
Score breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 17 / Concentration 14 / Length 15 / Complexity 8 = 91 points (Z)
Torrontés may not (yet) be as world-famous as some other wines, but that’s just part of its “charm.” Plus, exploring wines like this that are less widely known can be exciting and a great way to discover unexpected bargains. And who knows, maybe you’ll even fall in love. Teeheeheeeee
Now get out there grab yourself a good ole bottle of Torrontés!
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
¡Salud!
Isaac & Zach
I also love a Torrontés and only discovered it in the last year! Here's a tip for one I tried in NL (and enjoyed) and it looks like it's available in the US as well: https://www.wine.com/product/bodega-colome-torrontes-2022/1179695 (although the 2022 vintage is sold out, hopefully the later vintages will be just as good).
Lovely read! Now I'm craving Torrontés, that last one sounds especially delightful.