Croatia is known for 4 things and 4 things only: the Adriatic “coastline,” Dalmatians, and Zeus juice.
And I’m all out of bubblegum.
That’s why today we’re focusing on just one of those things: Croatian wine - specifically the wines of Dalmatia, a region so small it’s hard to “spot” on a map (CUE RIMSHOT).
All “jokes” aside, Croatia is a country famed for its natural beauty, and with great beauty comes great diversity of “microclimates” ideal for grape growing. The country’s coastal regions, especially Dalmatia and Istria, enjoy a classic “Mediterranean climate” — hot, dry summers and mild winters — while the inland areas experience a more continental climate with greater diurnal (day vs night) and seasonal temperature shirts. The proximity to the Adriatic Sea moderates temperatures and provides cooling breezes, protecting the vines from fungal disease, and allowing grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Steep rocky slopes on the Dalmatian islands and peninsula maximize sunlight exposure and drainage, while the rocky soils force vines to dig deep (LIKE MY THERAPIST), resulting in lower yields but more concentrated “fruit.” These factors combine to produce wines with vibrant acidity, pronounced aromatics, and a distinct sense of place.
IT’S VARIETY SEASON
Dalmatia’s unique “environment” supports a remarkable diversity of indigenous grape varieties, each thriving (UNLIKE ME) in specific regions, and each sporting an equally made up name. Among the white varietals, Bogdanuša, Pošip, Maraština, Grk and Prč are notable for their “distinctive” qualities. Grk and Prč have long had an intense sibling rivalry and neither variety has spoken to the other in over 15 years (*NOTE: Call their mom to check before posting).
At the other end of the “spectrum,” Plavac Mali stands “proud” as the flagship red variety of Croatia. Plavac Mali likes to live on the edge, and absolutely can’t get enough of the extreme conditions of Dalmatia’s coastal vineyards, where poor soils, steep slopes, and intense sunlight yield small berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are powerful and age-worthy (LIKE ME!), with high tannins, sometimes elevated alcohol, and flavors of red and black fruits, among other things.
Plavac Mali is made in a range of styles, from structured, cellar-worthy reds in appellations like Dingač and Postup, to approachable, fruit-driven wines with little to no oak influence, showcasing the grape’s versatility and the profound influence of Croatia’s so-called “terroir.”
Goodly Grgich, as he’s known, noted a distinct similarity between the Zinfandel of California and Plavac Mali, which pushed the question to the forefront of world news until it was finally answered (thank god). Genetic research revealed that Plavac Mali is a natural cross between Crljenak Kaštelanski (the original Zinfandel) and Dobričić, linking Croatian viticulture to the Zin that’s found a regrettably welcoming home in California.
If Mike Grgich were alive today, he would have only just celebrated his 102nd birthday, which, as I’m writing this, makes me realize we should have written our 101st post last year to really hammer home these “extremely important” “points” we’re “making.”
Right, so without further ado, LET’S DIVE INTO THE JUICE.
Profile: Black plum, red plum, red cherry, strawberry, hint of blueberry, mixed spice, dried herbs, copper penny, brine, crushed rock Palate: Dry, medium tannin, medium+ acid, medium body, long finish
Very good wine made in a “fresh style” with no oak influence. The wine is dominated by fresh black, red and blue fruits, along with dried herbs, spice, a hint of copper penny “rusticity” and salinity. Stylistically, this wine has characteristics resembling Langhe Nebbbiolo, Dolcetto and Pinot Noir. The wine was fermented with wild yeasts and eight days of skin maceration, followed by 18 months of aging, all in stainless steel tanks. Great introduction to Croatian Plavac Mali wines.
Profile: Lime, lemon, green apple, underripe pineapple, blossom, crushed rock, chalk Palate: Dry, high acid, medium- body, medium finish
This is a bone-dry and extremely high-acid wine with a citrusy and mineral-driven character. If you are not afraid of “razor-sharp” acidity, green characteristics and freshness, you will like this “lean” style of wine. More ripeness and concentration of fruit would have improved this wine, but a good wine overall.
Profile: Plum, cherry jam, strawberry jam, vanilla, cinnamon, maple syrup Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium finish
This wine is dominated by simple baked fruit flavors, high acidity, and an overpowering and poorly integrated “sweet oak” presence. The excessive oak treatment (oak chips or staves maybe?) diminishes any “charisma” that this wine may have otherwise had in “another life”, while hammering the final nail into the coffin of its already questionable “balance“ (LIKE MINE!).
In just a few weeks time, Isaac and Tannic Panic!™ wife, Victoria, are headed to New Zealand for an unrealistically belated honeymoon, and are going to travel to not 1, not 2, not 2, but 5 whopping regions, ALL OF WHICH will be reported on for your benefit (and ours).
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