When we think of premium Italian red wines, our robotic little minds usually default to the “classics” - the Sangiovese-based wines of Chianti and Brunello, and the Nebbiolos of Barolo and Barbaresco. But Italy has another trick up its “sleeve.”
Some of the world’s most prestigious Italian reds are not only made from those precious native Italian grapes, but also from varieties “stolen” straight out of Bordeaux’s most famous vineyards. We’re talking about Bolgheri DOC, the coastal Tuscan region that “broke the rules” of Italian winemaking and “gave birth” (THE GOOD KIND!) to the so-called “Super Tuscan movement.”
THE REGION
The name "Bolgheri" is allegedly derived from “Bulgari,” the Italian word for “Bulgarians,” referencing a medieval Bulgarian military camp that once occupied “the area” (NEATO!)
Bolgheri DOC experienced a humble and modest “childhood” (LIKE ME!). Originally, it was a mosquito-riddled marshland, where damp, stagnant waters made life a “bad time” for the “early settlers.” But through land reclamation along with the indomitable and “mighty human spirit,” this once inhospitable swamp transformed into the prestigious wine region we all know and love (and/or will all come to know and love imminently).
Wine Spectator map depicting Bolgheri among its “friends”
Bolgheri DOC “lives” on the Tuscan coast in the Livorno Province. Its unique location between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the inland Tuscan hills creates a wonderful little “mosaic” of microclimates. Cooling breezes from the nearby sea moderate both summer heat and winter frosts, creating a temperate coastal climate that promotes steady, gradual grape ripening and preserves freshness and acidity in the wines. Inland hills, ranging from 50-400m in elevation, experience significant diurnal range, which “further enhances” acidity and complexity in the grapes.
The soils are predominantly sandy clay loam, rich in stones and gravel, providing excellent drainage similar to the so-called “stony terroirs” of Bordeaux.
Bolgheri is a relatively young DOC (officially established in 1983), but it has quickly risen to notoriety as a result of the quality of the wines oozing from the region. In its “early days,” Bolgheri DOC only recognized white and rosé wines, which were generally considered mediocre at best. The region’s red wines, made primarily from Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, were excluded from DOC status due to strict regulations against non-native grapes and were relegated to the humble status of “Vino da Tavola” (table wine). This left poor Bolgheri without a global reputation for world-class wine… But “little did we know” at the time, everything was about to change with the rise of the mighty “Sassicaia Estate.”
THE SASSICAIA “STORY”
The great “agricultural scholar” Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, “inventor” of Sassicaia, stunned the wine world at a landmark Decanter “blind tasting” in London in 1978. In this legendary tasting event, the 1972 Sassicaia “beat” 33 other “high-end” Cabernet-based wines from Bordeaux and California, capturing “first place” (THE GOOD KIND!), shifting global attention to Bolgheri’s “untapped” potential.
Much like the “Judgement of Paris” tasting that made California Cabernet Sauvignon “relevant,” Sassicaia’s little “victory” served as a catalyst for the proverbial “Super Tuscan movement,” setting the stage for Bolgheri’s transformation into a “big boy” of the wine world. In 1994, new DOC regulations officially recognized and “protected” Bolgheri’s red wines, which were previously sold as “Vino da Tavola” (table wine) or Toscana IGT, allowing blends of international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
DID YOU KNOW… In 2013, Bolgheri Sassicaia established itself as an autonomous DOC, separating from Bolgheri DOC and becoming the only single-estate wine in Italy with its own distinct DOC status, arguably the most pompous “power play” in the history of “wine politics.”
RED WINE DESIGNATIONS
Bolgheri Rosso DOC is designed for early enjoyment and the region “features” generous yields of up to 90 tonnes per hectare. These wines must be aged for at least one year in any type of vessel, and may include stainless steel, concrete, or oak, giving the winemakers stylistic “flexibility” (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH). Bolgheri Rossos are typically fresh, approachable, and fruit-forward wines that highlight the Mediterranean brightness of the region. While generally made for drinking in their youth, many Bolgheri Rosso wines have enough structure to develop complexity with bottle aging.
Bolgheri Superiore DOC is produced with lower yields, capped around 80 tonnes per hectare, to concentrate flavors and enhance quality. It requires a minimum of two years aging, including at least one year in oak barrels. These wines are generally richer and more structured than Bolgheri Rosso, offering greater aging potential.
Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC is a distinct designation reserved exclusively for Tenuta San Guido’s historic Sassicaia estate, with strict vineyard boundaries and blending regulations. The classic Sassicaia blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc and “must” undergo a minimum of two years aging prior to release, including 18 months in French oak barrels. Sassicaia is known for elegance, balance, and exceptional aging potential (LIKE ME).
GRAPES & WINE STYLES
Bolgheri’s red wines are afforded some “leeway” in terms of what can be used in the blends — Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are “allowed” to occupy up to 100% of Bolgheri Rosso and Superiore wines, while Syrah and Sangiovese are each permitted up to 50%, and Petit Verdot up to 30%. Despite the flexibility of blending choices, in practice, most Bolgheri DOC wines are made from exclusively Bordeaux varieties.
Bolgheri DOC red wines are typically full-bodied and robust, with ripe dark fruit flavors, velvety tannins, and notes of “Mediterranean herbs” and sweet spices, offering a richer, more “sun-kissed” profile than their Bordeaux counterparts. While Bordeaux reds often emphasize restraint (UNLIKE ME!), earthy minerality, and higher acidity, Bolgheri wines are generally plusher, with softer tannins and a warmer, more approachable personality.
For “financial reasons,” today we’re only tasting Bolgheri Rosso wines because we’d rather not torch our last few “Benjamins” on the “more prestigious” Bolgheri Superiore DOC bottlings or Sassicaia. While the top Bolgheri wines can angrily demand anywhere from one hundred to “a million bajillion” dollars, Bolgheri Rosso wines can be a wonderful little source of “value,” typically in the $20 to $40 range. Allow me to demonstrate.
Profile: Blackcurrant, dried cherry, dried strawberry, prune, forest floor, earth, bay leaf, sage, thyme, lavender, balsamic, band aid, tobacco, orange peel, mocha Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finish
Blend: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot
This is an outstanding, concentrated and complex Bordeaux blend, but with a distinct Tuscan profile of dried fruit, earth, herbal complexity, a touch of brett (bandaid aroma) and subtle VA, characteristics that I often associate with aged Brunello. I found this in a local bottle shop at a great price. I highly recommend this if you can find it at a similar price point.
Profile: Black plum, black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, licorice, violets, cedar, mixed spice, extra dark chocolate Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acid, full body, long finish
Blend: 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot
This is surprisingly structured for the Rosso “category,” with intense black fruits, floral notes, well integrated oak spice, high acidity and very high tannins. The tannins are somewhat bitter at this stage. A few more years in the bottle should mellow the “angry tannins” on this youthful “puppy.” This is a good wine now, but it will definitely improve significantly over the next 5+ years. Note: I scored this on day 1, but this was noticeably better on day two, after “taking some breaths” of “fresh air” (THE GOOD KIND!).
Well that about wraps up this week’s rambling. Next week, “Isaac” will “return” from “New Zealand” so you can expect some “insights” into the wines he “tasted” while “abroad.” Won’t that be a wonderful time.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers,
Zach (& Isaac)
Tannic Panic! contains 10% Petit Verdot. SUBSCRIBE
