Tannic Panic! Issue #112: Pay Less For Pays d’Oc
Meet Languedoc-Roussillon: the “Central Valley” of France (metaphorically speaking)
If there’s one thing “we love” here at Tannic Panic! (besides wine and jokes that make French somms want to rip off their little velcro moustaches), it’s a “bargain.” And there’s no bigger, messier bargain bin in the French wine aisle than Languedoc-Roussillon.
This is the “region” of France that pumps out so much zeus juice, it makes California’s “Central Valley” look like a boutique farmer’s market.
THE REGION:
Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest wine-producing region in France and second in the world (Castilla-la Mancha in “Spain” leads the proverbial charge). Responsible for roughly one third of France’s wine output with over 220,000 hectares “under vine” (THE GOOD KIND!), Languedoc-Roussillon spans the sun-drenched Mediterranean coast from the Spanish border and the Pyrenees in the west, past the “iconic” town of Carcassonne, and eastward to the Rhône River delta.
This “mighty region” encompasses both the historic Languedoc and the more “refined” “little region” of Roussillon. The landscape is wildly varied (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH!), ranging from flat, sandy coastal plains to rolling hills, rocky “outcrops,” and rugged mountains. Soils in the vineyards run the gamut from limestone, clay, and gravel to schist and sandstone, offering an unrealistically wholesome patchwork of terroirs as varied as the region’s wines.
The climate is quintessentially Mediterranean: hot, dry summers and mild, wetter winters, with abundant sunshine and the infamous tramontane wind sweeping down from the mountains to keep the vines healthy and disease at bay. This climate, combined with the many aforementioned “soils” makes Languedoc-Roussillon a place where a great variety of grapes can be grown, and thusly a huge range of styles can be achieved. As such, it’s difficult to pinpoint a characteristic “regional style.”
Languedoc is technically a “generic appellation” — basically a giant catch-all for vineyards across this sunny swath of France. Within it, you’ve got more “specific” appellations like Minervois, Corbières, and Côtes du Roussillon, each with their own jolly little microclimates and winemaking “laws.” But most of what pours out of the Languedoc is made under less stringent labels like Pays d’Oc IGP (the more generic designation of Pays d’Oc essentially just means less regulation around varietals, production methods, and specific area of origin).
GRAPES AND WINE STYLES:
Indeed, wine styles here are as “diverse” as its indecisive “landscape.” Red wines dominate, typically blends of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault—grapes that deliver fruit, spice, structure, and aromatic complexity. Bordeaux varieties, such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive as well, especially in wines labeled under the flexible IGP category.
Rosé wines are also a regional staple, made from the same black grapes used for red wines, and prized for their fresh, fruit-driven charm.
Sparkling wines, especially from Limoux, have a “proud tradition—Limoux claims to have produced France’s first sparkling wine, predating Champagne. But I think we can all assume Limoux has ants in its pants, as the old saying goes.
White wines from Languedoc-Roussillon are often lively blends, featuring grapes like Picpoul, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Vermentino, Clairette blanche, Bourboulenc, and Chardonnay. In Roussillon, the whites can be particularly aromatic and mineral, reflecting the region’s mighty sun and schist soils.
NEATO! Let’s dive into the juice.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR 100PT RATING SYSTEM WORKS]
2023 Luc Pirlet Classique Chardonnay Unoaked / $14
Profile: Pineapple, nectarine, chalk
Palate: Dry, medium- acid, full body, medium+ finishThis unoaked Chardonnay could use a little lift – the acidity just isn’t quite there to hold everything together, but the flavors are fairly concentrated and the aromatics are not unpleasant. It’s a very simple wine, but paired properly I think it could be nice. There’s a little bitterness on the finish here as well. Still, for $14, we’ve got better prospects.
Score Breakdown: Balance 34 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 14 / Length 15 / Complexity 3 = 81 Points (I)
2023 Luc Pirlet Reserve Syrah-Mourvedre / $14
Profile: Cherry and raspberry jam, red vines, black plum, golden syrup
Palate: Dry, medium acid, medium tannin, medium body, short finishSomewhat indistinct mixed berry fruit jam and syrup on the nose, sharp and sour with little tannin structure, but a bit bitter and astringent. Basically just bitter water that smells like cheap artificial mixed berry syrup. If finish length were measured by how long I find myself hoping I’ll stop tasting it, this would have a long finish, but alas - earwax. This isn’t a bargain for $14 - it’s a waste of $14. Hard pass.
Score Breakdown: Balance 26 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 13 / Length 4 / Complexity 4 = 62 Points (I)
2023 Hugues de Neauvignac Picpoul de Pinet / $15
Profile: Ripe apple, pear, lime rind, grapefruit, honeysuckle, tennis ball (subtle)
Palate: Dry, medium acid, full body, long finishVERY concentrated and the flavors lingerrrrrrr. A bit like biting into a ripe and crisp apple with a little support from its “pals” at citrus and honeysuckle corp™. Not super complex, but refreshing and intensely flavored. Give me a bottle of this on a warm summer’s afterneve and I’ll greet it with a grin. Would definitely buy again.
Score Breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 6 = 87 Points (I)
2022 Jeff Carrel Languedoc Les Darons, Languedoc AOP / $15
Profile: Ripe strawberry, raspberry jam, black cherry, black plum, black licorice, rosemary, lavender, tar, wet stone, black pepper
Palate: Dry, full body, medium acid, medium tannin, long finishVery ripe fruit profile (15% ABV), just slightly hot, but otherwise very well balanced and concentrated wine with a wholesome “panoply” of red and black fruits, subtle stoniness, “Mediterranean” dried herbs, prominent licorice and a hint of black pepper. The profile is very reminiscent of a good Cotes du Rhone, so if that’s your “jam” (pun intended), this will be too. Solid value.
Score breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 16 / Concentration 15 / Length 14 / Complexity 8 = 89 Points (Z)
MEDIOCRE OUTRO
So there you have it. Languedoc-Roussillon: the “Central Valley” of France, only with more French people and fewer trucker hats. Whether you’re hunting for a crisp Picpoul that tastes like sunshine, a moderately-good to reasonably-undrinkable red blend, or something magnificent we simply failed to review today (and believe you us, it’s out there!), there’s a little something for everybody in the good old Languedoc.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach