In what is colloquially known as “recent history” the international eye has largely focused on Mount Etna when talking about Sicilian wine, leaving the island’s southern Vittoria region in relative obscurity (LIKE ME!). Yet it’s “here” that the flamboyant native grape Frappato thrives, producing light, aromatic reds bursting with jovial red berries, rustic herbs, and “flowers.”
Though still not especially well known in the United States, Frappato has become a symbol of Sicily’s shift away from international grapes like Merlot toward a proud “rediscovery” of its proverbial roots.
DID YOU KNOW… The name is derived from frattato, which surprisingly has nothing to do with eggs – it literally means “fruitful,” and it delivers on that promise.
Who is Frappato?
Frappato is an indigenous Italian variety grown primarily in “Sicily” (small quantities are also grown in “Puglia”). It is typically slightly chilled when drunk (LIKE ME!), and it is highly “approachable” thanks to its generally low (with some notable exceptions) tannins and high-toned fruity flavors. The palate is refreshingly light and dry (despite the often-jammy aromas), and as a result it can be paired well with foods otherwise typically relegated to whites. Stylistically, it is sometimes compared to Beaujolais or Pinot Noir.
Oak aging is sometimes used by the most “adventurous” producers, but most prefer stainless steel or concrete tanks to preserve Frappato’s fruit purity and vibrance, saving barrel aging for wines requiring extra texture or “muscularity.”
Although Frappato lives a “happy life” as a single varietal, the grape is also a key component in Sicily’s only DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, where it’s blended with the darker, fuller bodied, and arguably worse “Nero d’Avola” to create a balance of freshness and depth.
Bringing Frappato back into the “Limelight”
We would be incredibly “remiss” if we failed to mention the esteemed “Occhipinti” family in the context of Frappato. The phylloxera epidemic nearly de-existenced the classic Frappato Nero blends of the island, but thanks in large part to a trio of friends who began focusing on producing wines in the traditional style in the 80’s – COS winery, founded by Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano (the name of the winery comes from the first initial of each of their last names) – the style was kept alive (Read a great deep dive on their story here).
Giusto Occhipinti’s literal niece, “Arianna,” has carried the so-called “torch” into a new generation.
According to an article by Daily Seven Fifty, “Arianna Occhipinti could only ever imagine making only one type of wine: ‘human wine.’” But over time, it would seem she settled for making wine out of grapes instead, because she is largely credited with “introducing” our “naive little palates” to the “Frappato” we know and love today.
Featured in today’s reviews is an Occhipinti Frappato, which was one of the two Frappato available at Total Wine. It commands a price of roughly triple the value bottle (also reviewed here), which for many people would make it cost prohibitive, especially in the context of a style that is often seen as an easy drinking and relatively simple style. Were the extra bones justified, or is it just a major premium for the prestige of the name? Let’s find out…
Profile: fresh strawberry and raspberry, fresh orange, red vines, thyme, wet stone, hint of rubber Palate: Dry, high acid, low tannin, light body, medium+ finish
Crisp, fresh, beautiful bright ruby color, luscious fruit flavors. Aromatically didn’t get much in the way of herbs (my first thought was “red vines”), but upon sipping there was a fresh thyme character that joined the humble party. All around a really cool wine for the price, definitely better with a little chill to it, I kept this in the main fridge and let it “thaw” for ~15 minutes before serving. Relatively low alcohol, high acid, and refreshing, making it a strong choice for hot days or just some easy drinking without needing food to counterbalance structure. A really well balanced and straightforward wine – all around a “good time.” For $16 this is a great deal.
Profile: Blackberry, black plum, black olive, cranberry, orange peel, rose, sourdough yeast, a hint of mocha, hint of cumin, juniper, wet clay Palate: Dry, high acid, medium+ tannin, medium body, long finish
Wow, these two wines are worlds apart. It’s slightly darker in color and slightly more opaque than the Nostru, and it sports a completely different profile. Honestly, if I had only tasted the Nostru, I would have told you there was no way these were from the same grape and region. In fact, my first impression was almost closer to a Nebbiolo-based wine, but a bit more sour. Subtle evidence of oak. Grippy tannins with a pretty light mouthfeel, concentrated flavors with a super long finish. Layers of complexity — black fruits, cranberry, orange peel, rose, wet stone, herbs and spice — my honest instinct would not be to drink this chilled (though it didn’t hurt, I tried it both ways). Super long finish. I think if I had to settle on a stylistic comparison, it falls somewhere between a Xinomavro and a Barolo. I was skeptical that such a vast price difference could be justified, but this wine is poised to turn some heads. Worth it? Depends deeply on your preference, but if $45 for a bottle doesn’t turn your stomach, I strongly recommend giving it a try.
Both wines are widely available at TotalWine, and both “pass muster” at different price points as far as “we”re concerned. Now all you need to do is muster up the strength to go get some — just don’t spill it on your drinking jorts.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
Tannic Panic! is best drunk and slightly chilled. SUBSCRIBE
