In the proverbial “wine world,” New Zealand has made a name for itself with two major household “stars” that everybody “knows” and “loves”:
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Central Otago Pinot Noir.
To the so-called “wine nerds” out there, regions like Martinborough (also well known for Sauvy B and pinot) and Hawke’s Bay (best known for Bordeaux varietals and the occasional “peppercorn riddled” Syrah) may also “enter the conversation.” But there’s a noble grape lurking, smirking and braying like a f***king donkey on the “outskirts” of the New Zealand wine scene that deserves a metric jortsload of attention it isn’t currently getting.
“Chardonnay.”
We say “outskirts” because “here” in the “United” States, New Zealand Chardonnay rarely appears on shelves. The good and/or extremely wholesome news is that it is becoming a little more widely available, and as such, we thought we’d “explore” some of the options that we were able to “dig up” at the Zeus juiceries near us.
If you want to learn a little more about some of the North Island regions discussed in today’s post, feel free to “visit” vicariously through us here and here (posts tailored more to the travel experience in the context of NZ wine tourism - a resource for any of you mangy winos contemplating a trip).
But enough rambling — let’s dive into the juice.
Regions of the Week
Map of regions relevant to this post
This week, we’ve “explored” bottles made from grapes grown up and down the North Island, and stretching into the infamous Marlborough region at the northern tip of the South island. Working our way down…
Kumeū
Kumeū is a small, coastal-influenced “fellow” (aka wine sub‑region) of Auckland on New Zealand’s North Island. It’s known among those who are aware it exists as a source of exceptional quality, cool‑climate Chardonnay. “Some” would argue that these Chards are “on par” or better than those of the esteemed “Burgundy” (Grand Crus) winning some serious blind tastings in numerous vintages. Vineyards in Kumeū live the absolute dream (UNLIKE ME) between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific (mild maritime climate, warm and humid summers), where soils are mainly silt, clay, and loam with good water‑holding capacity – a micro-climate that is especially “friendly” to Chardonnay and other early ripening varieties (LIKE ME).
Hawke’s Bay
Located further south, between Auckland and Wellington on the east coast of the North Island, this sneaky little bay is known for so much more than its “hawks.” Beyond the friendly presence of these noble birds, the ocean fruits that reside there are also worthy of a goodly mention – AND MENTION THEM, WE WILL. The terroir is highly diverse, but the climate is Mediterranean-esque with mild winters, warm summers, and a wonderful cooling maritime influence.
Martinborough
Hi, I’m Martin. Welcome to my burrow. The Martinborough region, just an hour or so drive outside of Wellington, is best known for its cool climate pinot noir, and probably also better known to sauvignon blanc than chard, but it is nonetheless a source of some of the most exceptional Chardonnay ever to touch the human gullet. The region is dry and sunny, with a cool maritime climate, sporting large diurnal shifts which, AS WE KNOW, leads to wines with bright acidity and ripe fruit.
Marlborough
Everybody and their geezers know about this region as a powerhouse producer of good old Sauvy B. But it also makes Chardonnay, and perhaps the most widely accessible bottle we’ve reviewed today (Oyster Bay) comes from the region. It is extremely sunny with long, warm days that promote ripening but the high diurnal shifts once again allow grapes to retain super sharp acidity which makes the wines all the goodlier.
Profile: Lime, golden apple, nectarine, chalk, seashells, flint, sea brine, pineapple, chamomile, subtle toasted oak Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
Extremely lean and fresh with vibrant lime and golden apple aromatics, while still having good concentration of riper fruits (pineapple), complemented by prominent chalky/briny “minerality” to complement the vibrant acidity. The oak influence was kept to a minimum, making this a much more “refreshing style” than many other New World Chardonnay expressions. Great value.
Profile: Green apple, underripe mango, lime, crushed chalk, white flowers Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
Zach nabbed the ‘23 and I found a ‘24 at Whole Foods, so I figured it would be unethical not to taste this too. Really beautiful aromatically, like a bottle of fresh green apples with some floral and chalky notes, but on the palate this is very much a citrus dominated wine that doesn’t deliver on a lot of the aromatics. It has decent concentration, but lacks complexity. Still, an absolute joy to drink, and for the price this is a really nice wine that does the category justice. If you can find the 2023 vintage, even better (if you trust my deranged brother’s palate).
Profile: Golden apple, honeydew melon, lemon, rubber eraser blossom, toasted oak, brioche Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, medium body, long finish
Really enjoyed this wine, which is a regional blend of grapes from both Kumeu and Hawke’s Bay. 6 years of age but holding strong – not showing much tertiary (possibly because of the goodly screw cap), though the acidity is a touch lower than the others we tasted. Much more apple and melon driven with far subtler oak and lees notes. Reasonably complex with great concentration of flavor and a nice spread of different “clusters” to “explore.” One of the aromatics I’m getting, I would equate to the smell of one of those little novelty rubber erasers you can buy from a store like Daiso. It has such a distinctive smell, with golden apple, melon, a little toast and some brioche. Picked up at Total Wine for $20, definitely worth a try if you can find it.
Profile: Lemon, lemon peel, tarragon, subtle toasted oak, ripe pear, peach, white flowers, kettle corn, caramel apple pop, toasted almond Profile: Dry, high acid, medium+ body, long finish
This is one of the best chardonnays out there for my money. It comes from Martinborough – a wildly underappreciated region in New Zealand that produces incredibly good wines, and as I’ve beaten into the ground time and time again, the best Chardonnay that ever graced the earth. It was $41 (inclusive of taxes/tariffs/shipping) from Wine Collective Direct (an awesome site if you want to shop NZ wines by the case from producers otherwise unavailable in the US).
Now, I’ve previously reviewed this wine (see notes here) and I got some slightly different notes this time around – possibly just a byproduct of the additional age in-bottle, or my own subjective variation over time – but the score landed right in the same place. It’s just the slightest touch sharp (a quality I personally like, but that tilts the balance a hair) and it’s extremely aromatically and flavorically (real word) pleasing. Beautiful citrus and stone fruits with incredibly well integrated oak and MLF notes that lend a hint of caramel, kettle corn and toasted almonds.
I’m not exaggerating when I say I literally cleared out the online supply of this from the linked wine shop, but if you can find it anywhere, BUY IT ALL — or send me the link and I will.
This one smells strongly of pineapples and Bubblicious bubblegum with a touch of malt and butterscotch to “tie the room together.” It’s nice and concentrated, but the aftertaste goes just a touch in the direction of oxidized apple, which may be a sign we are just starting to tip over the hill. Using our “patented” scoring system, this wine scores slightly higher than the Kemeu, but I actually enjoyed the profile of the Kemeu better, and at half the price, I’d definitely grab two bottles of Kemeu over a single of this any day. If you like a nuttier, maltier style with a pineapple driven profile, you’re barking up the right tree with this one. Also available at Total Wine (select stores), goes for about $40.
Chardonnay from New Zealand by and large absolutely smashes it on quality to price ratio, and delivers profiles that please even the most Chard-averse palates. If you see some, please, for the love of absolute jorts, give it a try and let us know what you think – our bet is that you’ll love the way you look.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers,
Chardy McJortsface (aka Isaac & Zach)
Tannic Panic! drinks the stuff, and so can you SUBSCRIBE
