Tannic Panic! Issue #147: Duck, Duck, Goose
Stop ducking red wine from Washington’s Red Mountain AVA
We must begin with a simple but solemn message: never look a bald-faced hornet in the eyes. The result of a misstep on this front is that the bald-faced hornet will literally gather its “friends” and they will collectively spray venom into your unsuspecting eyes. This is not speculation – this is fact.
But we digress. Much like the formidable bald-faced hornet, “geese” are on the rise, which is why just one short “week” ago we discussed the eponymously named “gooseberry” “at-length.” Well, today the goose has reared its ugly head once again, only this time – in the form of “duck.”
CANVASBACK
Canvasback is a little Washington state “wine project” launched in 2012 as a “horizon broadening effort” by the otherwise California-based “Duck*horn Portfolio” (*note: duck are similar to goose). Their flagship product is a Cabernet Sauvignon from the humble Red Mountain AVA, which is known for its rugged terroir and “grumpy little climate patterns.”
Red Mountain AVA isn’t the only thing that has occasionally been described as warm, tiny, and extremely dry, but it’s certainly the most relevant in the context of this article. It is the tootsie roll center of the Russian nesting doll that is the Washington state AVA system, and it’s the smallest appellation in the state. It can “usually” be found within the Yakima Valley AVA which itself “lives” within the much larger Columbia Valley AVA.
Canvasback Cab is our focus this week because it’s widely available and relatively inexpensive.
As with any west coast Cab in the $20-30 range, we went in with a healthy bit of skepticism. These such wines often fail to be a “good time” for our tastes – and all the rarer when shopping the California regions from which “Duckhorn” usually peddles its beady little “wares.”
VINTAGE NOTES
We were able to track down two vintages currently making the round on “shelves” – 2021 and 2022. The 2021 Vintage is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 2% Malbec. The 2022 Vintage is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 3% Malbec, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Blend differences between vintages are typically a result of varying climatic conditions that impact grape quality and harvest quantities. In order to achieve a consistent quality and style in the final product, the winemaker has to make “nuanced” blending decisions, often demanding different varietal percentages in the blend.
The 2021 vintage (sometimes referred to as “the 2021 vintage”) in Red Mountain AVA was very hot and very dry, which led to lower yields overall and an earlier than expected harvest. The small and shriveled little berries yielded ripe and concentrated wines. [source 1, source 2, source 3]
While 2021 was busy being hot and dry, 2022 had “other plans.” Namely, not being hot and dry. Though widely viewed as an exceptional vintage (even called “perfect” by some precocious “experts” in the “industry”), it began unpredictably (as most “good things” do), with a cool and wet spring that delayed fruit development and had winemakers chattering in their respective britches with fear. Then, just in the proverbial “nick of time,” warm October temperatures swooped in and gave fruit the extra hang time it needed to really develop in flavor and ripeness. Cool accompanying nights meant a goodly diurnal range, which, as “we” know, helps ensure the grapes retain their acidity for a good time. [source 1, source 2]
So based on those vintage reports, we might expect the 2022 vintage of Canvasback to outperform its “elder.” But did it? Let’s “find out”...
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR RATING SYSTEMS WORK]
2021 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain AVA
Profile: Black plum, raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, crushed rock, mocha, French bakery, roses, earth, root beer, pine needle
Palate: Full body, high tannin, medium+ acid, long finish
For the price, it’s honestly hard to beat for an “American Cab.” There’s no laboratory “trickery” like so many other examples in “the category.” Just a wonderfully “honest,” dry wine with beautiful structure and balance. It’s rich, concentrated, enjoyable, and distinctly Washington State in style (at least “in retrospect”).
Score breakdown: Balance: 36 / Aroma & Flavor 16 / Intensity 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 8 = 90 points (Z)
2022 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain AVA
Profile: Raspberry, plum, cherry, crushed rock, bread dough, mocha, Thai basil, wet soil
Palate: Full body, high tannin, medium+ acid, long finish
Rich, smooth, none of that manipulated artificial fruit or syrup flavor you often find in West Coast reds at this price point. Leads with raspberry, black stone fruits, and some fresh earthy notes. A little hot (high alcohol), but not enough to ruin your life. Really easy to drink with some nice aromatics. Does it have a ton of structure or intrigue? Not really, but there’s nothing bad about it. Solid B+ wine (88 points) – great find in the “New World Cabs under $30” category.
Score breakdown: Balance 35 / Aroma & Flavor 16 / Intensity 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 88 Points (I)
Well… those, dear friend, are the syrups.
I think we’ve all learned something here today, be it about mountains of red, hornets of bald, or even the mighty “duck” — one thing is for certain: tomorrow is another day.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach