Listen up you RAISINATED WINOS: Today we’re going to RUIN (in the best way possible!) your “dry” or “damp” January with wine filled super soakers as we irresponsibly sniff, taste, sip and gulp (or maybe spit because #respectthedrypeople) bold reds and delicate whites from the humble and underrated wine mecca of Washington State.
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Washington is known for 3 things (FROM LEAST TO MOST IMPORTANT): 1) “Hipsters” 2) Natural bucolic beauty and 3) World class wines. While it may not come to mind right away when you think of American wine regions, Washington is the second-largest wine-producing state in the U.S., with over 1,050 wineries and 400 grape growers. [source for above]
When discussing Washington wines, we would be remiss not to immediately turn our ADHD-level attention to the Columbia Valley AVA, which accounts for 99% of the wine grapes grown in the state. Within Columbia Valley are almost all of the smaller AVAs in the state, including the well-known Walla Walla Valley and Yakima Valley.
Unlike the gloomy, wetter Western part of Washington (Seattle et al), Columbia Valley is in the "rain shadow" of the Cascade Mountain range, resulting in an arid climate with warm days and cool nights. This large day and night temperature range, or “diurnal range,” along with limited rainfall, facilitates slow grape ripening, leading to concentrated flavors along with vibrant acidity and tannic structure.
The region's diverse topography, including rolling hills, deep river gorges, and rugged mountain ranges really makes you want to put on your North Face fleece and go for a “little hike” with your hipster friends. But this so-called “TERROIR” also plays a key role in shaping the style and quality of Washington wines. The diverse soils, characterized by well-drained loess soils overlying gravel and slackwater sediment with a basalt bedrock (THE GOOD KIND!) facilitate ample grape ripening. The consistently sunny growing season and limited rainfall makes the area well-suited to the production of Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Due to the region's arid climate, vintners often need to irrigate their vines. By controlling irrigation, producers can better manage yields and fruit size, ensuring that vintages stay relatively consistent and of high quality, unlike Bordeaux for instance, which experiences a less predictable climate and therefore a larger degree of variation from one vintage to another (LIKE ME!)
But like it’s wine producing brother in arms down south (AKA California), the high demand and associated production means that you’ll also find lots of mass market options that underdeliver on quality. Fear not, we’re here to help. Without further ado, LET’S DIVE INTO THE JUICE.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2022 Chateau Ste Michelle Harvest Select Columbia Valley Sweet Riesling / 87 Points / $9.50
Profile: Apple, melon, peach, bubblegum
Palate: Sweet, medium acidity, medium body, medium finish
You have to be a fan of some residual sugar, but this is not a bad pick for the under $10 category. Showed a variety of fruits and some bubblegum on the nose. Would have liked the acidity to be a little sharper to stand up to the sweetness, but this could be really enjoyable paired with a citrusy sweet of some sort.
87 Points.
2022 Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc / 89 Points / $10
Profile: Passionfruit, pineapple, grapefruit, peach ring, gardenia, grass. Slightly mineral with lemon on the palate.
Palate: Dry, medium acidity, light body, short finish.
On the nose, this reads like a solid sauv blanc, I could almost get NZ from the aromatic profile, but on the palate it is not super complex, with medium intensity flavors and a relatively short finish. Don’t misread the room though – this is a very pleasant and drinkable wine that I’d gladly enjoy if handed a glass.
Take this one chilled, and anyone who wants a low rent, discount sauv blanc will likely have a fine time. If it were my choice? I’d still lean NZ because I prefer the brightness of the acidity and the pronounced and concentrated flavors you’ll find at a similar price point. That said, this is subtler and all around a fine time for $10.
89 points.
2020 Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Columbia Valley Merlot / 85 Points / $15
Profile: OAK (vanilla, dill, toasted coconut), woodsmoke, ripe plum, blackberry
Palate: Dry, medium tannins, medium acidity, full body, medium finish.
The oak monster came out to play here. So did the smoke monster (perhaps a byproduct of smoke taint from wildfires that blanketed some areas in the region with smoke that year). This wine is less complex than its cab counterpart (see below). Ash lingers on the palate.
This is a wine you may enjoy for the price, provided you are a fan of VERY oak-driven flavor profiles with a lot of fruit and not much else.
85 points.
2020 Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon / $15.50 / 86 Points
Profile: Woodsmoke, prominent oak (dill, toasted coconut, cinnamon) dominates the aromatics, cassis, black cherry, blackberry
Palate: Dry, medium+ tannins, medium+ acid, full body, medium finish
Balance is okay, and structure is there, but not where we’d like it to be. A bitterness to the aftertaste and woodsmoke is particularly prominent on the palate (to the point that it disrupts the flavor profile of this wine).
Also, just a hint of residual sugar (not enough to kick this into off-dry territory, but enough to lend confectionary notes) implies perhaps some additives that may have been used in the winemaking process.
Worth trying the next vintage, as this wine could be much better were it not for the smokiness.
Generously, 86 points.
2021 Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley / 93 Points / $22 (Value Pick!)
Profile: Blackberry, black plum, cedar, blackcurrant, bay leaf, graphite, violets, cinnamon, cocoa, vanilla
Palate: Dry, high (but oh so silky) tannins, medium+ acidity, full body, long finish
Great concentration of flavors. For just over 20 bucks, this wine has amazing structure and complexity and outperforms most wines that are double the price!
93 points.
2019 L’Ecole Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley / 93+ Points / $29
Profile: Blackberry paste, cassis, wet stone (THE GOOD KIND!), cedar, dark chocolate, violets, cinnamon, licorice and tobacco
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acidity, long finish.
This wine is complex, rich and beautifully structured. It reminds me of some riper styles of Left Bank Bordeaux, but with a bit more new oak spice coming through. This is very drinkable now and will develop more complexity if you let it sit in your dusty “cellar” for a few more years. Highly recommended.
93+ points.
2016 Spring Valley Uriah Red Blend, Walla Walla / 90 Points / $37
Palate: Dry, medium tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body, medium finish
Blend: Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec
Score: 87 points initially as this was quite muted and dilute, but this improved to 90+ points 2 days later (needed some time to “open up and find itself” apparently). Nevertheless, at this price point I would have expected more concentration and complexity.
Also of note: Light color, looks like it has some age (which it does!). I really expected greater things from this.
2014 Stevensmerlot Yakima Valley Merlot / 94+ Points / $40
Profile: Violets, roses, blackberry, raspberry, ripe plum, ripe pink dragon fruit, chocolate covered cherry, tobacco, cinnamon, cedar, bay leaf & just a hint of smoke on the finish
Palate:Dry, medium+ tannins, med+ acidity, full body, long finish
Beautiful “feminine” wine with super concentrated aromas & flavors that is showing surprisingly little tertiary character in spite of its age, which (along with its structure) indicates that this could really develop in the cellar for quite a bit longer. But it’s awesome right f-in now!
Very complex & well balanced with a long finish, rich & silky tannins, all around great time.
94+ points.
… And our ABSOLUTE DO NOT BUY list that doesn’t even merit sharing notes:
2019 Wildhaven Columbia Valley Merlot / 🤮 / $14
2021 Radius Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley / 🤮 /$20
