Tannic Panic! Issue #45: Aglianico For Dummies
March madly towards your nearest Zeus Juice dispensary and wrap your trembling little digits around a delectable bottle of Aglianico
WAKE UP AND SMELL THE WINE YOU LITTLE MANIACS!
Madness is in the air – and no, we're not talking about the basketball kind. We're talking about the kind of madness that makes you want to crack open a bottle of the good stuff and chug it without finding a glass (WE’VE ALL BEEN THERE!).
But if you do have the patience to find a glass, why not listen to what your ole’ pal Tannic Panic thinks might go nicely inside?
While you're busy frantically pouring white out on your computer screen hoping it will hide your horrendous bracket picks this season, take a moment to explore a grape that's as “bold” and “unpredictable” as the “tournament” itself.
Enter Aglianico – the “unsung hero” of the wine world, ready to steal the spotlight and leave your incomprehensibly tiny little taste buds cheering for more.
DID YOU KNOW… Aglianico is sometimes referred to as the “Barolo of the South” due to its exceptional quality and characteristics that resemble those of Barolo wines from northern Italy. But make no mistake — she’s her own beast (THE GOOD KIND).
Aglianico is a “renowned” yet highly under-appreciated black grape variety predominantly cultivated in southern Italy, particularly in Basilicata and Campania regions.
Outside of Italy, Aglianico has shown some "flickers" of viticultural "greatness" in the United States, particularly, in our opinion, in the state of Texas. This highlights its potential to "flourish" in warm, dry climates similar to those of its Italian “mommy”. In fact, numerous regions in Texas are very well suited for Italian varietals, with premium examples of Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Nebbiolo (AMONG OTHERS) being produced throughout the state.
Despite “historical beliefs” associating it with Greek origins, recent DNA studies suggest its native roots lie in southern Italy. Known for its late ripening and vigorous nature (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH), Aglianico is typically deeply colored and develops terracotta “tones” with age. Aglianico wines often showcase dark red and black fruits, chocolate, rustic “minerality,” floral notes like violet and rose petals, and earthy notes like mushroom, leather, and forest floor (THE GOOD KIND!).
REGIONS OF NOTE
Taurasi DOCG
In the Taurasi DOCG region in Campania, Aglianico wines are characterized by firm tannins, moderate acidity, and flavors of violet, red fruits like raspberries and cherries, as well as smoky notes of coffee, cigar, and leather. The vineyards in Taurasi sit at an altitude of at least 400 meters above sea level, benefiting from intense sunlight, and a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild winters. The volcanic soils in this region contribute to the unique “terroir” of Taurasi wines, ensuring a balance of elegance and rich flavors that age exceptionally well (UNLIKE ME!).
Aglianico del Vulture DOCG
The Aglianico del Vulture DOCG region in Basilicata (just south of Campania), near Mount Vulture, is renowned for producing exceptional Aglianico wines. These wines typically boast a brilliant ruby red color, a fruity bouquet, and a dry, tannic profile that “softens” beautifully with age. What sets this region apart is its unique terroir - the volcanic soils rich in minerals and the cooler, dry climate create ideal conditions for Aglianico to “thrive.” The grapes grown in this region also sit at high altitudes, with all vineyards lying between 200-700m above sea level (anything outside that range does not qualify for the DOCG).
Oswald Vineyard, Texas High Plains AVA
We’ve chosen to highlight this particular vineyard because the two Texas Aglianico’s we’ve reviewed today both sourced their fruit from it. It is worth noting that Oswald Vineyard also produces its own wines, but we have not reviewed them here today. Located near Lubbock, in the heart of the Texas High Plains AVA, Oswald Vineyard benefits from an ideal combination of warm days, cool nights, and well-drained sandy soils. The hot, dry climate mirrors that of its Italian origins, allowing the grape to thrive and express its full potential (LIKE ME!). The sandy soils, rich in minerals, impart a distinctive character to the wine, adding complexity and depth to each bottle.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2020 Terredora DiPaolo Aglianico, Campania, Italy / 89 points / $19
Profile: Cranberry, red cherry, raspberry, plum, dried oregano, copper penny, violets, cocoa
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, medium body, long finish
A good Aglianico for a relative “bargain” price. A little bit on the lighter side of what I would expect from this variety, but nevertheless this is well balanced, red-fruit dominant and “rustic” in style. This has the tell tale “copper penny” note (THE LUCKY KIND) that we often “find” in Italian red wines.
Pair with Bruschetta or other “lighter” Italian fare.
Average price is listed at $19, but it can often be found for less (we found it for $16 at the local wine store)
2017 Duchman Aglianico, Texas High Plains / 88 Points / $19
Profile: Chocolate, cinnamon, tar, cherry, strawberry, violet
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, medium finish
A nice wine, but lacks the complexity of the Hye Meadow counterpart (see below), and not as rich or lengthy on the finish. We are of course comparing different vintages (unfortunately I could not find the 2018 of the Duchman), but the fruit comes from the Oswald vineyard so I thought it would be fun to see how the two compare.
The hint of tar on the nose in concert with cherry and floral aromas does ring a distant bell of Barolo, but this wine is certainly it’s own thing.
Stylistically very different from the Hye Meadow Aglianico, and I think the price difference is justified. That said, this was an enjoyable wine and went great with creamy mushroom polenta.
88 Points.
2018 Hye Meadow Aglianico, Texas High Plains / 95 Points / $45
Profile: Chocolate covered cherries, blueberry, bay leaf, thyme, olive oil, licorice, violets
Palate: Dry, high acid, high tannin, full body, extremely f*cking good, well balanced, long finish, pair with f*cking anything
Fruit sourced from the Oswald vineyards, but stylistically it is dramatically different from the Duchman bottle we tried.
Beautiful wine with great structure and a very long finish. Showcases a complex variety of aromas and flavors, everything from chocolate to blueberry, to floral and herbal notes, and some interesting aromatics that develop as it opens up, like olive oil.
This wine is incredible and if you live out of state, I cannot recommend this highly enough as a shining example of premium Texas wine to try.
95 Points.
2013 Salvatore Molettieri Vigna Cinque Querce Taurasi, Italy / 96 points / $46
Profile: Dried cherry, blackberry, chocolate, tobacco, bay leaf, violets, rose petals, balsamic, wet stone, licorice, mint, tar, forest floor
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finish
Pair with Spaghetti Puttanesca, The Silence of the Lambs (swap this out for the Chianti), or a wholesome post-prandial “hang out.” (THE GOOD KIND!)
This Taurasi has all of the classic “rusticity,” acid and tannic structure that you would find in a premium Barolo or Brunello di Montalcino combined with a “darker fruit” richness that reminds me of a great Left Bank Bordeaux (#bestofbothworlds). If you like those aforementioned wine styles, you’ll love this.
96 Points.
Bonus wine: We would be remiss if we did not point your attention back towards another bottle we previously reviewed that is an outstanding example of Taurasi Aglianico at a reasonable price point (at least as far as wine from the region goes).
2018 Donnachiara Taurasi Aglianico, Campania, Italy / 94 Points / $40
For the full review, jump over to this post and scroll down to wine #7!
While its counterparts “Sangiovese and Nebbiolo et. al.” often steal the spotlight, Aglianico “stands tall” alongside them as one of Italy's most iconic grape varieties for red wine.
But here's the kicker – Aglianico brings something truly special to the table. With its late ripening, robust nature, and ability to thrive in warm, dry climates, it's a grape that “marches” to the beat of its own “drum.” From the volcanic soils of Campania to the rugged hills of Basilicata and beyond (I’M LOOKING AT YOU, TEJAS), Aglianico's wines tell a story of complexity, depth, and undeniable character.
So, next time you're perusing the wine aisle or planning your next little tasting adventure, don't overlook Aglianico. In fact, do the opposite. Look it right in the eyes and say, “I’m going to drink you.”
We promise you’ll love what it has to say back.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach