Do you, or someone you know, suffer from moderate to severe thirst syndrome? Yes? WELL ISN’T THAT WONDERFUL! Because it’s Wednesday… AGAIN… which means your “parched” palates could use a wholesome little “cleansing” with a healthy dose of the “pale nectar.”
For only the second time in Tannic Panic’s “rich history,” we’re “revisiting” the illustrious Sauvignon Blanc grape, this time from its country of origin - the esteemed viticultural republic of “France.”
Bid adieu to your kiwi green jumpsuits (remember those?) and set aside your tightly screw capped NZ Sauvy B for a few moments as we “introduce you” to the slightly less flamboyant, but oh so sincere Sauv Blanc wines of Sancerre.
While Sancerre wines are typically priced noticeably higher than the extreme value Sauv Blancs of New Zealand, they offer a unique and distinctive style, and quality that rivals the best.
Right now 2022 is the vintage that you’ll find most abundantly on the shelves, so we’ve taken a look at a handful of bottles from that vintage to showcase some of the differences and similarities between various producers.
The 2022 vintage was a breath of fresh air for producers in the region, after severe frosts caused a great decrease in yields in the 2021 vintage.
The growing season was relatively warm, which as we’ve mentioned in previous posts, sometimes results in wines with lower acidity (higher pH), and this can be a positive or negative, depending on the variety. As high acidity is a desirable quality of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, bolstering the freshness and vibrancy of the flavors, a warmer growing season can be seen as a negative. Still, producers reported measuring surprisingly low pH levels in spite of the warmer season.
DID YOU KNOW… Sancerre used to be known for producing red wines made with Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes, but after the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century, winemakers replanted the vineyards with Sauvignon Blanc grapes to produce the white wines that Sancerre is famous for today.
SANCERRE AOC
Residing in the picturesque “Loire Valley” of so-called “France,” the humble wine region of Sancerre AOC is “celebrated” for its crisp, “bone dry” white wines, made from the “revered” Sauvignon Blanc grape. With “zippy” acidity, mineral-driven character (LIKE ME!), and vibrant fruit flavors, Sancerre white wines are made to “cleanse” the stale palates of wine enthusiasts” (LIKE YOU!).
These wines tend to “express their delicate feelings” with an array of flavors and aromas. Often showcasing zesty citrus notes, floral characteristics, green apple, stone fruit, herbaceous and green notes like parsley, asparagus, and hay, as well as distinctive flinty characteristics that set them apart from their “new world” Sauvignon Blanc counterparts in New Zealand and California.
The vineyards in Sancerre are heavily influenced by specific topographical factors, climate, and landscape within the Loire Valley. The cool semi-continental climate of Sancerre, coupled with its diverse soils rich in limestone and silex is believed to contribute to the characteristic “minerality” in these wines (although the scientific validity of this little theory is questionable at best).
Due to the cooler climate and the relatively high rainfall, the best vineyard sites are found on the southerly, river-facing slopes of the region's rolling hills, where they benefit from optimal exposure to warmth and sunlight. Shouts to our dear friend “Mr. Golden Sun” for doing his f-ckn thing day in and day out to aid grape ripening and bring concentration to the wines. Respect.
The overall cool climate allows the Sauvignon Blanc grapes to retain their naturally high acidity levels (THE GOOD KIND!) that all of us “acid heads” know and love.
Sancerre white wines are an icon in the world of Sauvignon Blanc. Their famously high acidity, herbaceous nuances, and mineral “undertones” make them a versatile companion to a myriad of light dishes (grilled vegetables, salads, ”vegan tapas”), or better yet simply enjoyed on their own as an “aperitif” to fill your empty stomach with “hunger” and your empty head with a light pre-prandial “joviality.”
Certain individual vineyards (Like “Les Monts Damnés” which I refuse to google translate, but I can only assume means “THOSE DAMN MOUNTAINS”) have garnered quite the reputation for producing high quality wines. Some of these wines can age in the bottle, but generally speaking, Sancerre is best enjoyed young.
WINEMAKING STYLES
We’ve given you a lot to “mull over” about, so we’ll try to keep this “brief.”
In terms of winemaking practices, the majority of Sancerre wines are unoaked and fermented in stainless steel vats, resulting in a “clean” flavor profile that highlights the grape's natural aromatic characteristics and crisp acidity. However, a smattering of producers have started “experimenting” (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH) with some amount of oak aging in an attempt to add more texture and complexity to the wine without making it overtly oaky or toasty (as you would find in Chardonnay for instance).
Additionally, lees aging (leaving the wine in contact with the dead yeast cells after fermentation) is also sometimes used to add flavors like bread and toast, and to enhance its structure and aging potential.
These practices contribute to the diverse range of styles found in Sancerre wines, from the classic vibrant and fresh styles to more textured and age-worthy “expressions.”
Malolactic fermentation is typically avoided, as this can interfere with some of the fresh fruity and floral aromatics that are typically associated with the aromatic sauvignon blanc variety. NEATO!
Solid stuff. Good balance of citrus, minerality and stone fruit, with some herbaceous quality. This has some of the characteristics that we associate with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (minus the Kiwi green jumpsuits and explosion of tropical fruits).
Pair with a balcony view of the ocean on a “sunny day.”
OR IF YOU MUST EAT, pair with lemon orzo pasta with asparagus and peas
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium(-) body, medium finish
Very high acidity and ample minerality (LIKE TODAY’S SPARKLING WATERS!), but lacks the flavor intensity and concentration of fruit to score this higher. Nevertheless, this is a decent representation of Sauvignon Blanc in the “Sancerrois” style.
Pair with low to moderate expectations and a Greek Salad.
This was the most concentrated and complex of the group and with one of the ripest profiles, counterbalanced by crisp acidity, floral, herbaceous and mineral notes. Well done fam.
Pair with Thai papaya salad.
92+ points.
[Note: Wine Searcher lists it at $29, we found for $26 at a local store.]
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, medium body, medium finish
Not gonna lie to you beautiful, beautiful winos — when I gave this the college sniff, I was pretty excited about what was to come. The profile is unusual for a sauv blanc, almost reads more like pinot gris or something, save for the alfalfa. It has some really interesting layers on the nose, with citrus and stone fruit, apple, melon, Jasmine tea, and even ballpoint pen ink?!, but alas — it was pretty one dimensional on the palate. Such a let down, and doesn’t even come close to delivering on the value front. Still, an interesting bottle to buy once just to see.
From the esteemed slopes of Les Mont Damnés, this puppy showcases great texture and complexity, with good concentration and a long finish. Acid is high, but somehow doesn’t quite hit the level of vibrancy we get from the NZ style, which could have kicked this one into the next gear. Nonetheless, this one is elegant and pairs amazingly with grilled asparagus tossed in green goddess dressing.
92 Points.
Sancerre you have it. What a spread. As we stated up top, it’s not the value play of the century, but if you are a wine aficionado and you are interested in expanding your horizons and exploring the world of Sauv Blanc, you kinda gotta.
If you already have, whoop-dee-doo — hopefully these reviews help you sift through the swill!
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING, PEOPLE.
Sancerrely,
Isaac & Zach
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