Tannic Panic! Issue #51: What’s Gooseberries? Part 2

Sipping our way through the latest vintage of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand, including a review of a celebrity wine that will shock you!

Well, well, well, if it isn’t our favorite pack of thirsting little winos.

Today, it’s time to “dust off” your Kiwi Green Jumpsuits (remember those?) because May 3 is “International Sauvignon Blanc Day” as “we’ve all” clearly marked on our “busy” little calendars.

Incidentally, it’s also almost the one year anniversary of our previous NZ sauv blanc post about the 2022 vintage. Time flies!

As you all unquestionably know, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is universally agreed upon as being one of the best sources of value in existence (TRUST US, WE ASKED EVERYONE). In fact, we’d go as far as to say that less than outstanding bottles are the unicorns of the bunch, while outstanding examples plague our grocery store shelves like… locusts… or something plaguey that you might find on a grocery store shelf. You know, except instead of locusts, it’s delicious wine. Cool as.

So prepare your desiccated palates for a “blitzkrieg” of gooseberries (THE GOOD KIND!), grapefruit, freshly cut grass, passionfruit, and cat pee (ACTUAL TASTING NOTE) because this week we’re “revisiting” New Zealand to explore the latest vintage of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the market: 2023.

Recycled image of NZ sauv blanc tasting notes because THEY STILL APPLY

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DID YOU KNOW… Sauvignon Blanc accounts for 86% of the New Zealand’s total wine exports. How ‘bout them gooseberries?

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THE 2023 VINTAGE IN A NUTSHELL

Here’s the short and sweet of the 2023 vintage in Marlborough, New Zealand:

• Produced wines of excellent quality

• Slightly lower yields than 2022 due to fruitset issues (though still on par with the average annual yield)

• Fruitset disruption led to “loose bunches” (LIKE YOU!) which actually benefited the grapes by allowing more airflow, which decreased disease pressure, and also allowed them to stand proudly as individuals (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH)

• The 2023 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc vintage has been described as "exceptional" with the grapes in "immaculate condition" and exhibiting "thick skins” (UNLIKE ME!) and “crunchy acidity" 

[Read more about the 2023 vintage here: Link 1 | Link 2 | Link 3]

Little reference map of the region for yous

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We got to taste a lot of great bottles this year, and as is to be expected with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, even the worst of them weren’t half bad. It is worth noting that this time around we didn’t get to include last year’s top pick, Grove Mill, because “unfortunately” all that we could find available in stores was still the incredibly good 2022 vintage. We’ll circle back with a review of that when we can!

Good stuff. Now let’s dive into the humble juice…

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… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):

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1. 2023 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc / 90 Points / $10 [VALUE PICK!]

Profile: Green bell pepper (by far most green pepper character of any of the wines tasted), sea shells, wet stones, lime, passion fruit

Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish

We’re calling this one the value pick this week simply because it’s a 90 point wine for $10. Let’s be real though, folks. They’re all value picks.

90 points

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2. 2023 Brancott Sauvignon Blanc / 89 Points / $10

Profile: Sea shells, mango, jalapeño, white flowers, lime

Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium+ finish

A very interesting wine [which we loved last year & scored notably higher]. A pretty cool expression of the style with some tropical mango and jalapeño. Definitely recommend trying this one out if you have a chance, widely available for cheap and very drinkable, but falls a just little short on intensity and length. 

89 points.

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3. 2023 Koru Sauvignon Blanc / 87 Points / $12

Profile: Guava, passionfruit, grapefruit, wet stone, white flowers, grass

Palate: Dry high acid, light body, medium- finish

This was a refreshing wine with some nice aromatics, in spite of slightly less intensity on the nose and length of finish (relative to the others). Would gladly drink a glass any day, as long as the others we tasted aren’t an option.

87 points

[NOTE: Got this at HEB in Austin, unclear how widely available it is in the USA so apologies in advance if you have trouble finding this one. Luckily, there’s better options on our list. <3]

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4. 2023 Mussel Bay Sauvignon Blanc / 87 Points / $13

Profile: Lemon, lemon peel, green apple, subtle grapefruit, wet stone, pineapple (only on the nose), grass

Palate: Dry, high acid, light body, medium finish.

Very high acid, lighter and less ripeness than many of the others we’ve tasted.

87 points

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5. 2023 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc / 90+ Points / $15

Profile: Grapefruit, citrus peel, hint of passionfruit, cantaloupe, fresh cut grass, jasmine, wet chalk, crushed sea shells

Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish

This has been consistently good and well priced across vintages. A strong pick any day of the week. We noted less tropical fruit this vintage (perhaps because the 2022 vintage had a bit more warmth leading into harvest) but all in all a well balanced and delicious wine.

90+ points

[NOTE: Total Wine link we’ve added here says it is the 2022 vintage, but we’ve found the 2023 to be by and large what is now actually available in stores, so just be sure to double check when you are making the purchase]

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6. 2023 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc / 88+ Points / $17

Profile: Citrus, sea shells, grass, melon, faint passionfruit, wet stone

Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium finish

Nice standard issue NZ Sauvignon Blanc. Better picks definitely available for the price, but like pretty much all of these options, wouldn’t object to a free glass.

88+ points

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7. 2023 Invivo X Sarah Jessica Parker / 92 Points / $20

Profile: Lilies, lime, passionfruit, guava, chalk, vanilla, grass, cat pee (THE GOOD KIND!)

Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish

I really wanted to hate this because my knee jerk reaction to seeing Sarah Jessica Parker’s name on a bottle was avoid-avoid-avoid! Celebrity wine labels tend to suck in my experience. HOWEVER, presumptions were proven inaccurate, as this was an awesome wine. Great intensity, layered with nice texture and long finish. Would gladly drink again – BUT it does cost about double what than you need to spend to get a great bottle of Marlborough SB, so the choice is yours.

Sickeningly, this is the bottle we scored the highest this week, and we strongly recommend giving it a try at least once.

92 points.

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WE DONE SAID BEFORE, AND WE’LL DONE SAY IT AGAIN – New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc stands almost untouchably above all others when it comes to extremely high quality white wines in the $8-20 range.

You can find outstanding examples at every price point along that range, so when we evaluate these wines, we are usually judging by contrast within the category more than anything else (but we’ll certainly let you know if we taste a total dud!). 

It’s early on a Wednesday, so what better time to get out there and start trying these wines for yourself?

Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.

Cheers!

Isaac & Zach