Tannic Panic! Issue #56: Hooray For Provence Rosé

Rosé reviews for the faint of heart

What do rosé and euthanasia have in common? They’re both pink. But do they both kill you? No. In fact, in moderation, rosé is perfectly safe for human consumption!

Happy Wednesday you maniacs. It’s the first week of June somewhere, which means it’s time to dust off your flimsy little sun hats, slap on some “sunscreen” and load up your Yeti with a few liters of the pink stuff.

Today we’re reviewing a few widely available bottles of the most popular wine style during beach season: rosé.

Specifically rosé from Provence.

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DID YOU KNOW… Provence is considered the “birthplace” of the modern French rosé style, with a winemaking tradition dating back to 600 BC when those “nutty” ancient Greeks first “introduced” vines to the region.

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Provencal Rosé Style

The Rosé wines of Provence, France are renowned for their delicate hues and refreshing, food-friendly character. 

The quintessential Provençal rosé is pale in color (LIKE ME!), ranging from light pink to peach or melon tones. This delicate hue is achieved through precise control of skin contact during the winemaking process, using principal black grape varieties like Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah. The wines are typically dry, crisp, and “refreshing” with vibrant acidity and an array of fruit flavors like strawberry, melon, peach and citrus, along with floral notes and sometimes dried herbs.

Provençal rosés are renowned for their versatility (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH), pairing well with a wide range of “cuisines” from carrots and hummus to spicy Indian food to an empty stomach on a white sand beach. While some rosés are intended as “easy-drinking” aperitif styles, others showcase more complexity and structure, capable of aging and complementing “heartier meals.”

Grape varieties and “regulations”

The main grape varieties used in crafting these quintessential Provençal rosés are Grenache, the most important variety providing body, aroma, and notes of red berries and spice, along with Cinsault, which adds fresh, delicate, fruity flavors to the blend. Mourvèdre, a key component in many Provençal reds and rosés, lends structure and complexity, while Syrah contributes color, body, and black fruit flavors. Tibouren, a traditional Provençal grape, is also used in rosé blends, adding a unique regional character.

The Côtes de Provence AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) has strict regulations governing rosé production in the region. At least 50% of the blend must be made from Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Tibouren, with secondary grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Clairette, Semillon, Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano), and Rolle (Vermentino) allowed in smaller proportions. The maximum residual sugar allowed is 4 grams per liter, and the minimum alcohol level is 11%, ensuring a dry, refreshing style. 

Terroir and Production

The Mediterranean climate of Provence, with its hot, sunny days tempered by the angry "Mistral winds," creates ideal conditions for rosé production. The region boasts diverse terroirs, ranging from coastal areas to inland valleys and hillsides, contributing nuances of “minerality” and distinct flavor profiles to the wines. Strict AOC regulations govern the grape varieties, yields, and winemaking methods employed in Provence. These regulations ensure the quality and typicity that define the region's “celebrated” rosé styles.

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DID YOU KNOW… Provence rosé is made from grapes harvested at the crack of dawn? Indeed, while you’re still drooling on your fluffy little pillow, some poor Frenchman (or underpaid foreigner) is out there hand-picking grapes in the “wee” hours of the morn. This is either because it helps to preserve their “freshness” or because the grapes have a strict bedtime and Gumpa will get angry if they miss curfew again* (*DEPENDING ON SOURCE - NEED TO FACT CHECK BEFORE POSTING). 

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Winemaking Process 

Maintaining the classic Provençal rosé style and terroir expression is a key focus for the region's producers. The "Rosé Research Center" (yes, it’s real) assists winegrowers and winemakers in adapting vineyard management and winemaking techniques to “cope” with the challenges of climate change. 

Provencal Rosé Production Methods 

The primary technique used for rosé production in Provence is direct pressing. 

The grapes are pressed immediately after harvesting, without any prior skin contact. The bunches are gently pressed over an extended period to allow some color to leach out from the skins into the juice. The precious pale pink juice is then immediately transferred for fermentation, resulting in the lightest style of rosé with a pale pink or salmon hue. By adhering to these “time-honored” traditions and embracing innovation, Provence continues to produce some of the world's most celebrated, classic, and distinctive dry rosé wines.

Winemakers will sometimes also allow a short period of maceration to extract a little more color and flavor from the skins, however this is less common in the region than direct pressing.

For more about the different rosé production styles, check out our previous post on rosé:

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Cool beans! Now let’s dive into the juice…

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… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):

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1. 2022 Bieler Peré & Fils Rosé / 90+ Points / $13 (VALUE PICK!)

Profile: Strawberry, peach, pear, cantaloupe, white flowers, crushed rocks

Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, medium body, long finish

Blend: Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault

We reviewed this same wine about a year ago. It was our value pick then, and it is still showing nicely now, though perhaps slightly less vibrant flavors than when it first hit shelves last year. An excellent wine, nonetheless.

Looking forward trying the 2023 vintage which is probably already starting to replace the 2022 in stores.

90+ points.

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2. 2022 Olema Rosé / 88 Points / $13

Profile: Watermelon, bubblegum, peach, apricot, orange creamsicle, mineral finish

Palate: Dry, medium acidity, light body, medium finish

Some nice ripe fruit flavors, but the acidity could be a bit higher to add some vibrancy and it had a slightly bitter finish. Not bad for $13, but James Suckling is an absolute maniac for giving this 92 points.

88 points.

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3. 2022 Fleur De Mer Cotes De Provence Rosé / 91 points / $17

Profile: Melon, peach, pineapple, lemon peel, cherry, strawberry, wet stone, dried herbs

Palate: Dry, high acidity, medium body, long finish

Blend: Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan

Great value rosé with some tropical fruit flavors “intermingled” with red fruits, minerals and an herbaceous character that “we” often find in Red Cotes du Rhone wines (perhaps the Grenache speaking?). Quite concentrated and complex with great freshness and bright acidity. WONDERFUL STUFF! 

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4. 2022 Chateau D’Esclans ‘Whispering Angel’ Provence Rosé / 90 Points / $18

Profile: Underripe grapefruit, orange zest, orange blossom, peach, melon, cranberry, strawberry, crushed rocks

Palate: Dry, medium+ acidity, low tannin, medium body, long finish

Blend: Grenache, Syrah and Rolle (Vermentino)

Classic crisp, refreshing Provencal rosé with ample citrus, melon, red fruit and minerality to “keep it interesting” (LIKE ME!)

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5. 2022 Ultimate Provence Rosé / 84 Points / $20

Profile: Peach swisher sweet, pineapple, orange, strawberry, wet stone

Palate: Dry, low acid, medium body, short finish

Blend: Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle

This Ultimate Provence is the ultimate waste of money. Hiding behind a very fancy looking bottle is a wine that is extremely flabby and disappointing to taste after a somewhat enticing nose.

Lacks any structure or length and frankly it RUINED MY SUMMER. 

Of course generous James struck again here with a mind boggling 90 points rating on this. I can only imagine someone switched the samples because

84 points.

Our take? Do not buy this overpriced swill.

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Now go put on your water wings, grab a plastic pool-safe wine glass, and pour yourself some rosé, because the clock is ticking.

Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.

Cheers!

Isaac & Zach