Tannic Panic! Issue #61: It's Barbaresco Season
If Barolo is the "king of wine" then Barbaresco is the Jar Jar Binks
Okay, so there’s absolutely no correlation between Gungan legend Jar Jar Binks and Barbaresco except for the first two syllables (*HE LIED*) but you can bet your sweet skittles he’d slam a glass if you gave him one.
Indeed, we’ve returned to talk about the beautiful wines of Piedmont. We’ve been here before (more than once) — in fact, our very first post was about the Barbaresco’s gym buddy, Barolo. But in case you haven’t with us from the beginning and the name of our blog didn’t give it away, the highly tannic Nebbiolo based wines of the region hold a special place in our withered little hearts.
The Region
Nestled in the rolling hills of Piedmont, Italy, the Barbaresco wine region is a small yet “prestigious” area, located just east of Alba, and renowned for producing some of Italy's most elegant, structured, age-worthy and sought-after red wines from the humble Nebbiolo grape, along with its “big brother” Barolo next door.
Barbaresco's unique terroir plays a crucial role in shaping the character of its wines. The region benefits from a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters. Diurnal temperature variations during the growing season allow for slow, even ripening of the grapes, resulting in well-balanced wines with complex flavors. The vineyards of Barbaresco are primarily situated on steep, south-facing slopes, which provide excellent drainage (THE GOOD KIND!) and maximal afternoon sun exposure. The soil composition, predominantly Tortonian in nature, is rich in limestone and marl, imparting a distinct mineral quality to the wines and contributing to their depth and complexity.
The Varietal & The Winemaking Process
At the heart of Barbaresco's winemaking tradition is the Nebbiolo grape, a notoriously finicky variety that thrives in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. Nebbiolo is known for its light color, thick skin, late ripening, and ability to produce wines with remarkable aging potential (LIKE ME). It's one of the first varieties to bud and last to ripen (ALSO LIKE ME!), with harvest typically occurring in mid to late October.
Barbaresco wines are crafted with meticulous care and attention to detail. DOCG regulations require a minimum aging period of two years (26 months if we are being technical), with at least nine months in wooden barrels. This aging process helps to soften the wine's naturally high tannins and develop complexity. The resulting wines are thusly a testament to the region's terroir and winemaking expertise, typically exhibiting a harmonious balance of red fruit flavors, floral notes, and spices, with a velvety texture and well-integrated tannins. With age, Barbaresco develops extremely wholesome tertiary aromas of truffles, leather, and tar, and the finest examples will continue to develop for millions of years (PROVE ME WRONG).
DID YOU KNOW… Barbaresco is often referred to as the "younger brother" of Barolo. While this may seem like a slight, it actually positions Barbaresco as second in line to the throne in the hierarchy of prestigious Piedmont red wines, and all it needs to do to ascend is pull the trigger.
Barolo vs. Barbaresco
Barbaresco is situated closer to the Tanaro River and is overall at a significantly lower altitude than Barolo (200-400m v.s. 300-500m), so it benefits from a slightly warmer climate. This means that the Nebbiolo grown there ripens earlier than in Barolo. This results in Barbaresco wines having slightly softer tannins and being more approachable at a younger age (UNLIKE ME!) compared to the more robust, tannic Barolo. Barolo DOCG requirements are stricter than Barbaresco, mandating a full additional year of aging (38 months total, 18 months in wood) before release.
Despite their proximity—less than 10 miles apart—Barbaresco's wines are celebrated for their elegance, red fruit flavors, and floral notes, developing complex aromas of truffles and leather with age, whereas Barolo is known for its powerful, intense flavors and greater aging potential (but it should be noted that Barbaresco is also very ageworthy (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH). The smaller vineyard area of Barbaresco also means its production is roughly 35% of Barolo's, adding to its exclusivity and distinct identity within the world of Italian wines. Neato! Let’s dive into the juice…
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2019 Cantina del Nebbiolo Barbaresco / 89 Points / $20
Palate: Strawberry, raspberry, cherry, rose petals, peanut shell, sassafras, licorice, dried herbs
Profile: Dry, medium+ tannin, medium body, high acid, medium finish
Nice entry level Barbaresco with a lot of the classic Nebbiolo floral and red characteristics. This is a great alternative to a Chianti or other Italian wines if you’re looking for such a thing. For the unreasonably cheap price of $20 for Barbaresco (basically unheard of), definitely give this a try. 89 points.
❌ 2020 Rivata Barbaresco / 86 Points / $25
Profile: Red vines, licorice, cocktail cherry, raisins, molasses, thyme, dust
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acid, full body, short finish
Not great for a Barbaresco, but all things considered not a terrible wine. Some unappealing aromatics (grape concentrate, nail polish) that would have tanked the score almost completely dissipated after 24 hours of being open. What is left is a slightly oxidized and dusty red fruit and herbal profile. Unfortunately the flavors themselves are not particularly concentrated and it has a slightly bitter aftertaste. Plus, not everyone wants to wait a day to drink the wine they’ve just opened.
If you want a great Barbaresco, typically you have to pay more than what this one costs, and in this case, that holds true. That said, structurally speaking it has the makings of a decent gastronomic wine (food friendly), but our take? Unless you have no other options, skip it. Generously, 86 points.
2019 Giribaldi Barbaresco / 90+ Points / $37
Profile: Brine/saline, roses, vanilla, cherry, petrichor, tobacco, fennel seed
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, medium finish
Great balance, very nice flavor profile, really solid wine. Not as much length on the finish or as much complexity as the Produttori we tasted, but still a fine choice and just a hair more budget friendly. 90+ points.
2020 Produttori del Barbaresco / 92 Points / $40
Profile: Sour cherry, dried strawberry, dried cranberry, rose petals, pomegranate, black pepper, orange peel, cinnamon, tobacco, wet stone
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finish
This is consistently a great Barbaresco producer at a relative “bargain” of a price for the category. The 2020 vintage of this wine is concentrated and very tannic with ample red fruits along with spice, minerality and tobacco notes. Highly recommend you seek this out. 92 points.
2019 Produttori de Barbaresco / 94 Points / $43
Profile: Sour cherry (reminds me of the cherry jam filling in thumbprint cookies), cranberry, raspberry, orange, vanilla, cinnamon, clove, lavender, rose, leather, tobacco, white pepper, bay leaf
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finish
The wine so nice we reviewed it twice (YOU’RE WELCOME). Really beautiful, lively wine. Gives bright, tart red fruit flavors. Think Thanksgiving cranberry sauce (orange, cinnamon, cranberry) with hints of that delicious cherry thumbprint cookie filling, complemented by herbaceous and spiced flavors. Incredibly tannic, layered and complex with beautifully balanced primary, secondary and tertiary characteristics. A hint of white pepper on the palate lingers after a sip. This could easily continue aging for years, but it is fantastic now. 94 points.
2019 Giuseppe Cortese Rabaja Barbaresco / 94 Points / $50
Profile: Maraschino cherry, dried strawberry, dried cranberry, tar, rose petals, menthol, crushed rocks, tobacco, licorice, earth, dried herbs
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finish
A beautiful, concentrated and structured Barbaresco with the “classic notes” of tar and rose petals along with dried red fruits, minerality and complex tertiary notes already starting to show from 5 years of bottle age. 94 points
If you haven’t blessed yourself with an extremely exorbitant amount of Barbaresco, rectify the situation pronto. They do run a little higher on the price spectrum than many of the wines we recommend for you, but this is undoubtedly one of those wines that merits checking off your list if you’ve never tried it.
It’s a phenomenal wine for pairing with food, and if you’re a slut for tannic wines like we are, THIS COULD BE THE ONE.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
Jar Jar Binks!!! Too funny! I reckon you're absolutely right about Mr Binks draining a glass of Barbaresco!
Babar to the rescue!