Tannic Panic! Issue #68: A Tale of Two Montes
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo v.s. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - what's the difference?
What’s nappenin’ folks? Welcome back, AND HAPPY NATIONAL RED WINE DAY! We’re sure you all enjoyed a day off work on what is internationally recognized as a very important American holiday worldwide.
Today we’re talking about Montepulciano. Is it a grape? Is it a region?
That’s right — not confusingly at all, it’s both! But when it’s the region, it’s not the grape, and when it’s the grape, it’s not the region. Glad we cleared that up.
In all seriousness though, it is confusing, so we’re here to break it all down for you:
DID YOU KNOW… When you see "d'” or a “di” or a “della” on an Italian wine label, it typically indicates the region of origin. Literally translating to “of” or “of the,” this is often used in conjunction with the name of a grape variety or style (preceding said d, et al) and followed by a geographic location to denote the wine's origin.
So in the case of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, we have the Montepulciano grape and the Abruzzo region. For Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, we are informed of the where, but they’re being coy with us about the grape. In this case, it’s Sangiovese and perhaps a small percentage of other permitted local varieties.
Montepulciano, the grape:
The Montepulciano grape is deeply colored with high tannins, medium to high acidity, flavors of black fruits and cherries. The wines are often simple and fruity, and the more concentrated examples will sometimes see oak.
Though the variety is grown in regions across the world, it is most closely associated with the Abruzzo region of Italy, which is where we will direct our focus today.
The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC spans from the coastline and hills of the Marche region in the north to Molise in the south. Wines labeled as Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC must contain at least 85% Montepulciano grapes. The Montepulciano grape is thick-skinned and late-ripening (LIKE ME), thriving in Abruzzo's warm climate. The region is known for producing good-quality wines at EXTREMELY attainable price points. Although lesser-quality wines exist (and perhaps dominate the supermarket selection) due to high-volume production, Abruzzo also offers excellent examples of Montepulciano, particularly from areas with less fertile soils and higher elevations. Due to the low cost of the bottles, it can be an excellent source of “value” in the Italian red wine “category.”
Montepulciano, the region:
Bottles labeled Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are “distinguished” red wines from the vineyards surrounding the medieval town of Montepulciano in southern Tuscany, Italy. Unlike Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the primary grape used in the production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is Sangiovese, made from a clone of the variety “known locally” as Prugnolo gentile (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH). This grape must constitute at least 70% of the blend, with Canaiolo Nero making up 10%-20% and minor quantities of other local varieties such as Mammolo contributing to the wine's complexity. Enlightening! Some producers opt for 100% Sangiovese for their top wines.
The vineyards of southern Tuscany are at a lower altitude than those in the north and have a warmer climate, so they tend to be more concentrated than the Sangiovese based wines of Chianti.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is typically aged for a minimum of two years, with at least one year spent in oak barrels. For the Riserva designation, the aging period extends to three years, enhancing the wine's depth and allowing it to develop more complex flavors and aromas.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is characterized by its dry and balanced taste (LIKE ME!), often featuring notes of red fruit, plum, and subtle earthy undertones, with potential secondary flavors of tobacco and leather as it matures. Its bright acidity and moderate tannins make it versatile for food pairings, complementing Italian cuisine and various other dishes. Due to the stricter regulations surrounding production, it tends to be a bit more expensive than Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and the baseline quality is higher.
We tasted a bunch for you this week, and they range in awesomeness from “iffy and serviceable at best” to “real good.” Neat. Let’s dive into the juice…
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2021 Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo / 78 Points / $12
Profile: Burnt almond, balsamic, expo marker, rum raisin, blackberry, black cherry, juniper
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, medium body, medium finishThe aromatics were fairly unappealing, with a scent of burnt almond and VA that brought the balsamic note into an almost expo/sharpie-like aroma (perhaps a slightly flawed bottle?). That said, there were some layers to it, and were it not for the off-putting notes, it may have been a whole ‘nother story. Nevertheless, I will not be buying it again, at least not this vintage.
Score Breakdown: Balance 34/40, Aroma&flavor 13/20, Concentration 12/15, Length 7/15, Complexity 7/10 = 78 Points (I)
2022 Patch Montepulciano d’Abruzzo / 77 Points / $15
Profile: Honey, cherry, raspberry, bubblegum, red apple
Palate: Off dry, high tannin, medium+ acid, full body, medium+ finishFor me, the fact that it wasn’t completely dry was very off-putting, and reminded “me” of some of the inexpensive manipulated wines produced here in the states. It had concentrated flavors, but very little going on beyond sweet red fruit. This one is definitely a pass from me. Overall it was “not unpleasant” and some of the people I tasted this with really enjoyed the style, because they liked the simple, plush, and slightly sweet profile.
Score Breakdown: Balance 32/40, Aroma&flavor 15/20, Concentration 15/15, Length, 10/15, Complexity 5/10 = 77 Points (I)
2021 ‘1895’ Natale Verga Montepulciano d’Abruzzo / 81 Points / $16
Profile: Raspberry, blackberry, cherry, nutmeg, coffee, yeast
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finish[PLEASE NOTE: This wine is not over a hundred of years old LOL] A simple, but overall pleasant wine with a surprisingly long finish. Some ripe bramble fruit with a hint of spice and a little yeasty character. Has that plush, ripe fruit character that hints at residual sugar, but not enough to throw it into off-dry territory. At around $16, not a bad value (but you can do better).
Score Breakdown: Balance 34/40, Aroma&flavor 15/20, Concentration 15/15, Length, 10/15, Complexity 6/10 = 81 Points (I)
2018 Vecchia Cantina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano / 84 Points / $17
Profile: Wet stone, petrichor, fresh cut grass, blackberry, blueberry, plum, red vines, chocolate
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, medium+ finishThis wine was all around pleasant and had some complexity to it, but fell short on the finish and could have benefited from greater flavor intensity. At $17, not a bad wine.
Score Breakdown: Balance 38/40, Aroma&flavor 17/20, Concentration 13/15, Length, 8/15, Complexity 8/10 = 84 Points (I)
2022 Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo / 87 Points / $18
Profile: Plum, cherry, underripe blackberry, barnyard, earth, citrus peel, licorice, nutmeg, black pepper
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, medium+ body, long finishThis was a pretty rustic “Old World” style of Montepulciano with tart stone fruits and blackberry along with ample notes of earth, barnyard and spice. Overall, a “pretty good” wine for the price, but not as concentrated or complex as many Sangiovese-based Italian red wines that you can find at a similar price point.
Score Breakdown: Balance 36/40, Aroma&flavor 18/20, Concentration 13/15, Length 12/15, Complexity 8/10 = 87 Points (Z)
2018 Leone D’Oro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano / 83 Points / $25
Profile: Chalk, wet stone, leather, black cherry, strawberry, bay leaf, dried herbs, earth
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, medium finishThis wine was very mineral, with some prominent chalk and wet stone notes, complimented by cherry, strawberry and some herbal and spice notes. It was well balanced and nice to drink, but fell a bit short on length. Liked it, but for $25 you can do better.
Score Breakdown: Balance 38/40, Aroma&flavor 17/20, Concentration 14/15, Length 6/15, Complexity 8/10 = 83 Points
2018 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva / 92 Points / $35
Profile: Black cherry, dried strawberry, blackberry, cedar, mint, forest floor, copper penny, clove, wet stone, chocolate
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, long finishThis was an extremely well made Sangiovese with a good balance of red and black fruits, cedar and chocolate notes from well-integrated oak aging, along with mint, forest floor, spice and that “tell-tale” “copper penny” play that “we” find in so many Italian red wines (especially Sangiovese).
Score Breakdown: Balance 37/40, Aroma&flavor 18/20, Concentration 15/15, Length, 15/15, Complexity 7/10 = 92 Points
Well there you have it folks. You can wipe your sweaty little foreheads and rest easy because all those burning questions that have been keeping you awake at night for the past few decades have officially been answered. YW.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
He he he - I'm almost embarrassed by how long it took me to wrap my head around which is which. Eish...Italy! Weirdly enough, I actually enjoyed this huge country...and kinda wish there was a WSG Italy Master course coz I'd be crazy enough to say 'yes please' to more punishment 😂.
Your 'di' or 'd' nails the best way to distinguish the two by labels. But I'm still a long way away from distinguishing the two in my glass...or even remembering that 'di Montepulciano' is an option next time I yell Sangiovese in a blind (aka muttering Sangio under my breath while kicking myself for not spending more time tasting more of this grape).
Great job breaking down Montepulciano! Love the 7 recommendations...2 of which I think are available in SA 🤞🏾!