Tannic Panic! Issue #69: Margaux-a-go-go
1991 Vintage Château Margaux and younger Margaux that are also “Good to Gaux”
Happy Wednesday you absolute maniacs.
The year 1991 is highly significant and holds a special place in “our tiny little hearts” for two and ONLY TWO reasons: 1) it’s the birth year of Isaac (Tannic Panic founder) and 2) it was a very “challenging” vintage in Bordeaux, yet the humble winemakers at Châteaux Margaux still managed to “pump out” an incredible wine. In 1991, as Château Margaux's vines and barrels struggled against the effects of Mother Nature's angry tantrums, something else was stewing: Isaac. While one was destined to be bottled, the other was destined to empty bottles.
It’s also “worth noting” that tomorrow is National Cabernet Sauvignon Day, so all the more fitting that we delve into these WONDERFUL cab based left bankers on this fine national cabernet sauvignon day’s eve.
MARGAUX, THE REGION
Margaux, one of the most prestigious commune appellations in Bordeaux, is renowned for producing some of the world's finest red wines, most notably the Château Margaux “first growth” red wine. Located in the Haut-Médoc area on the left bank of the Gironde estuary, Margaux is home to 21 cru classé chateaux, more than any other commune in Bordeaux. This esteemed appellation covers 1,413 hectares of vineyards, making it the second largest in the Haut-Médoc after the humble commune of Saint-Estèphe (another Tannic Panic “favorite”).
DID YOU KNOW… The Margaux wine region is notable for being the first area in Bordeaux to be cultivated for vineyards, with evidence of Roman grape cultivation dating back to ancient times (LIKE ME).
THE STYLE
The red wines of Margaux are “celebrated” for their elegance, perfumed fragrance, and silky textures. Cabernet Sauvignon is the predominant grape variety, but it's typically blended with other grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Malbec and Carmenère are technically allowed in the blends, but they are a rarity these days. Margaux wines are known for their distinctive black fruit flavors, floral and earthy characteristics, often featuring notes of black currant, violets, truffles, and tobacco. While Margaux has a long history of winemaking excellence, the region has seen significant improvements since the turn of the millennium. Many châteaux that were previously underperforming have now reached their full potential (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH), resulting in a consistently high level of quality across the appellation. This “renaissance” has made Margaux one of the most exciting wine regions in Bordeaux, offering consumers an unprecedented selection of high-quality wines at a range of price points.
“While one was destined to be bottled, the other was destined to empty bottles.”
THE “LEGENDARY” 1991 “VINTAGE”
The 1991 vintage of Château Margaux stands out as a remarkable achievement in a challenging year. Despite difficult weather conditions that affected much of Bordeaux, Château Margaux managed to produce an exceptional wine. This vintage showcases the skill of the winemakers and the unique “terroir” of the Chateaux. The “1991 vintage” is an example of how legendary wines (and legendary wine bloggers) can be produced even in “less-than-ideal” years.
Good. Now let’s dive into the juice.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2020 La Sirène de Giscours, Margaux / 91 points / $45
Profile: Black cherry, black plum, violets, cedar, touch of green pepper, mint, wet stone, cocoa
Palate: Dry, high acid, high tannin, medium body, long finishThis 2020 Margaux comes in a more medium-bodied and “leaner style” (LIKE ME!) as compared to than the Chateau Prieure-Lichine. This also has more vegetal flavors to complement the stone fruits if you’re into that combination. If this only had a bit more intensity and richness, it would score higher (LIKE ME!)
Score Breakdown: Balance: 37, Aroma/flavor: 18, Intensity: 13, Length: 15, Complexity: 8 = 91 Points (Z)
2020 Château Prieure-Lichine Margaux / $55 / 94 points
Profile: Blackcurrant, blackberry, black plum, blueberry, violets, lavender, cedar, chocolate, wet stone, tobacco
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, high tannin, full body, long finishThis is a wonderful “value” Margaux from the warm, but “very good” 2020 vintage with plenty of ripe dark fruits and floral notes, balanced by well integrated oak spice and minerality. This wine has exceptional tannic structure and the potential to evolve beautifully over the next decade (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH). If you come across this (and you will!), be sure to get your meat hooks on a few bottles.
[NOTE: This goes for around $55 at Total Wine, but we’ve often found it around the $40 price point in local stores, so we have reason to believe that YOU CAN TOO!]
Score Breakdown: Balance: 37, Aroma/flavor: 19, Intensity: 15, Length: 15, Complexity: 8 = 94 Points (Z)
1991 Château Margaux, Margaux / 95 Points / $500
Profile: Roses, chocolate covered cherry, blackberry, mushrooms, earth, cumin seed, licorice, wet stone, saltwater pool, copper penny
Palate: Dry, high acid, med+ tannin, medium+ body, long finishThe vintage is 1991 (LIKE ME!)
The legendary first growth Château Margaux (the only Château in Bordeaux named after the region) was a joy to drink. Delicate, but still has a decent amount of intensity, in spite of the poorer vintage. This wine has developed beautiful layers in the 33 years since it was “born” and every passing hour it opened up, more flavors “came out to play” (LIKE ME!). Sniffing it was like sticking my nose deep into a garden rose that had been dusted with cocoa powder. Tertiary aromas of mushroom and earth danced around it, mingling with enticing mineral and spice notes, like cumin seed and licorice. It had an exceptionally long finish, with flavors lingering in my mouth for over a minute after taking a sip (certainly something that could not be illustrated in the score by our 15 second/15 point criteria). But what this wine could have benefitted from is a bit more intensity, and it was just a touch high in acid. All that said, it was an incredible wine and age has treated it well (LIKE ME!). Would I pay $500 for another bottle of this? Not on my salary! Thankfully this was a gift, which I’d gladly receive again.
Score Breakdown: Balance: 37, Aroma/flavor: 19, Intensity: 14, Length: 15, Complexity: 10 = 95 Points (I)
Now gaux out and try some Margaux (she’ll be glad you did).
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach