Tannic Panic! Issue #73: Let The Cava Flow Like Lava
Cava Gives Champagne A Run For Its Money (AND YOURS!)
What’s poppin you severely dehydrated winos? It’s time to follow your unhinged sherpas here at Tannic Panic into a little Spanish “cave” (THE GOOD KIND), to taste a sparkling wine that is often referred to as “the Champagne of Spain.”
INDEED, Cava is derived from the humbly juiced berries of Spain’s sun-drenched vineyards, and these friendly little beverages have been delighting thirsty palates (LIKE YOURS) for over 150 years. This crisp, refreshing bubbly offers a quality taste of traditional method sparkling at a fraction of the cost of its French “counterpart,” Champagne.
While Cava can be produced in various Spanish regions, its “spiritual home” lies in Catalunya, particularly in the Penedès area just outside Barthelona. There, the temperate Mediterranean climate and diverse terroir create ideal conditions for cultivating the grapes that give Cava its “distinctive character.”
DID YOU KNOW… It wasn’t until the mid 20th century that Spanish winemakers officially adopted the term "Cava" (which means "cave" or "cellar" in Spanish) as a way of distinguishing their traditional method sparkling from French Champagne. Prior to that, it was commonly referred to as “Champan” or “Xampan” which literally translated to Champagne.
Cava v.s. Champagne
So how are Cava and Champagne really different? We’ve created this wholesome little table for you that breaks down some of the key comparisons:
At the core of Cava's unique flavor profile are three primary indigenous grape varieties: Macabeo (Viura), known for its floral aromatics and smooth, elegant character; Xarel-lo, which provides structure and body to the blend; and Parellada, contributing fruit flavors and refreshing acidity (LIKE ME!). For the production of rosé Cava (which we didn’t review this week, but previously recommended one here), Garnacha and Monastrell are commonly used.
While these traditional “no name” varieties form the “backbone” of most Cavas, some producers also incorporate international grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to create more “diverse styles,” or more closely mirror the flavor profiles of Champagne. Their inclusion has caused some stir among producers who believe that allowing Champagne grapes to be used detracts from what makes Cava unique.
DID YOU KNOW… The value offered by Cava is so good that in 2023 it resulted in a highly coordinated “coup-de-Cava,” IF YOU WILL, when French winegrowers blocked roadways to hijack and destroy over 10,000 bottles of Cava being imported into the country as a little protest over their “impossible-to-beat” prices.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
NV Freixenet Cava Cordón Negro Brut / $9 / 85 Points
Profile: Golden apple, melon, ginger, lime peel, toasted almond, wet stone, chalk dust
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium finishAt the wallet wateringly low price of $9, this is a really “solid” entry level Brut Cava that you will literally find anywhere (e.g. grocery stores, your local CVS, under your bed (LIKE ME!)). Crisp and chalky with notes of apple, melon, citrus, toasted nuts and minerality (what more do you need?!) The concentration and complexity could use a little “amping up,” but for this relatively pedestrian price, there is nothing “unlikeable” about this swill.
Score Breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 18 / Intensity 12 / Length 11 / Complexity 7 = 85 points (Z)
NV Cantaora Brut Cava / 87 Points / $10
Profile: Green apple, almond, tennis ball, hint of brioche, icing sugar, and a touch of kiwi on the palate
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, medium body, long finishLively mousse, slightly bitter (but not unpleasant) green fruit finish, but well balanced with good length and some layers to it. Showed green apple, almond and a hint of autolytic character. Over all a really nice option for such a bargain price.
Score Breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 16 / Intensity 13 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 87 points (I)
NV Borrasca Brut Cava / 90 Points / $13
Profile: White flowers, citrus peel, apple, pear, fennel, white pepper, wet stone
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, light body, long finishDon’t be fooled by the low price point and the sparkly black label on the bottle, this had some interesting stuff going on. It showed a lot of floral character, with citrus peel, apples, pears, and some interesting herbal and spice notes of fennel and white pepper. Very fruity profile, with super concentrated flavors and a finish to match. For $13 bones this was pretty swell, but it lacked really any autolytic character, so for those of you seeking out something that really compares to Champagne stylistically, this isn’t it.
Score Breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 17 / Intensity 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 90 points (I)
NV Berberana Gran Tradición Brut Cava / 85 Points / $14
Profile: Golden apple, orange peel, almond croissant, brioche, flint, chalk, hint of white pepper
Palate: Dry, med- acid, medium- body, medium+ finishThis one was pretty cool — it was really reminiscent of a Champagne on the nose, with lots of autolytic character, some notes of apples, almonds, flint, and orange peel. Where it fell short was flavor intensity — they just did not meet the expectations set by the aromatics. Lots of chalky minerality on the palate, and was quite refreshing served well-chilled, but it could have used a little brighter acidity to lift those flavors up and really make it shine. All that said, I would really recommend seeking this one out if you are looking for an interesting bargain sparkling that whispers of Champagne.
Score Breakdown: Balance 33 / Aroma/Flavor 18 / Intensity 13 / Length 14 / Complexity 7 = 85 points (I)
NV Conde de Caralt Blanc de Blancs Brut / 91 Points / $18
Profile: Green apple, lemon rind, persimmon, rubber, petrichor, white pepper, grilled pineapple, roasted almond
Palate: Dry, medium acid, medium body, long finishThis Blanc de Blancs (made from white grape varieties only) was really nicely balanced and a long finish, with some interesting aromas and flavors in there. It in many ways reminded me stylistically of the Cantaora (the $10 bottle reviewed above), but with a bit more going on and a longer finish.
Score Breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 16 / Intensity 14 / Length 15 / Complexity 9 = 91 points (I)
One of the *bittersweet* byproducts of the market for Cava here in the U.S. is that “premium” examples of Cava (THE EXPENSIVE KIND) are few and far between, which means if you wanted to go out and treat yourself to a Champagne-priced Cava (you know, for fun or w.e.), you’d have trouble finding many options. THE GOOD NEWS is that the options out there, which typically range in price from $10-$20, are widely available and often of excellent quality.
So here’s the way it is folks: Cava is a great source of value, and with such a wide range of styles, if you go out there and try a few (you could buy 3-5 bottles unique bottles for the price of your typical Champagne), you’re sure to find something you like and save yourselves a lot of bones down the road.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers,
Isaac & Zach
Check out Raventos I Blanc!! Pepe (the winemaker) took them out of the Cava DO because he thought too much bulk crap was representing the category. His wines are around the £20 mark and are stupidly delicious
Barthelona 😂! Love the table comparing the regions! That coup-de-Cava was crazy...right. Such striking visuals, and so so interesting to think about it from the French growers' perspective. Thanks for this cool overview of Cava. I'm not a bubbly person (says the girlie who's found herself 'forced' to drink HQ trad method sparklings for most of this month), but I occasionally enjoy Cava. So it's great to have this recap as well as your recommendations.