Tannic Panic! Issue #75: Greek Value For The Frugal Guzzler
Grease up your gullets and prepare to imbibe untold quantities of Zeus juice, because this week we're bringing you incredible value - including an insane 95 point white for under $30! 🤯
Ah, Greece:The land of olive oil, Hercules, feta cheese, the “olympics”… oh yeah, andwine.
It’s funny because when we think about “the Greeks,” wine is kind of top of mind as a cultural staple. Yet, in spite of its rich history and reputation for quality, Greek wine is far from common here in the US, with few options ever appearing on supermarket shelves, and laughably sparse selections in wine shops around the country.
This week we’re digging into the question of “why” and “getting Greek” as we dive “toga first” into the world of Greek wines.
So fasten your fashionable little Air-hercs and brace yourselves for an unhinged exploration of one of the best-kept “secrets” in wine value on Dionysis’s’s green earth.
“I’m Greek” -Oedipus
Why Isn’t Greek Wine More Popular?
We can’t speak for our international friends (maybe you can weigh in in the comments), but as we said before, Greek wine just isn’t that popular here in the US.
In doing a little “research” on the subject, there seems to be a bit of a consensus that a few key factors are at play. We’ve distilled them as follows:
Limited Production
According to the World Population Review, Greece was responsible for less than one-half of a percent, or 0.48% of the world wine production in 2023, placing it behind some countries I wasn’t even aware produced wine (and have now developed both a burning curiosity and mild phobia of trying *cough cough* Moldova & Brazil)
Familiarity
This comes in several forms. For one thing, as Eric Asimov points out in this NYT article, Greek cuisine (and ipso facto, Greeko wino) is not nearly as integrated into American culture as, say, Italian, or French, and so we receive far less exposure to their wines. This is also linked to another factor of familiarity, which is the actual names of the varieties used. Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Assyrtiko… these aren’t exactly household names, and unlike varietal titans of the globe, like Cabernet Sauvignon, or Pinot Grigio, their production is largely limited to their country of origin.
Distribution Challenges
Greek wine imports are limited by efforts of distributors to market them and a relative lack of demand outside of the country. There is also the problem of the systems and regulations in place that can pose a barrier for small mom & pop producers who don’t fully understand how to navigate them and have trouble getting their products in front of distributors who can bring their wines to international markets.
There are other factors to be sure, but those three things are responsible for much of the current state of things, which means limited availability for us Americans. But that also means that, for the time being, there are extremely high quality bottles out there at a discount because the lack of demand makes it difficult to up-charge. So… semi-lucky us!
The Climate & Key Regions (of the week):
Generally speaking Greece has a hot, Mediterranean climate, which means moderating temperatures and ensuring sufficient water access are critical to producing high quality wines. The coastal areas tend to be moderated by the sea, and altitude and wind also have a cooling effect in the islands to the south east of mainland Greece. In the Nemea and the broader Peloponnese, altitude is an important factor in mitigating the heat. On the island of Santorini, coastal influence is crucial, as is wind, which creates both positive effects and unique challenges to grape growing in the region. The incredibly rambunctious little winds that would otherwise decimate the equally rambunctious little fruits (and their respective feelings) have led to unique vine training practices; growers train the vines into iconic basket shapes, which allow the fruit to be sheltered from Zeus’s tantrumonious little gusts and yield highly concentrated and ripe “berries.”
Nemea is infamous (LIKE ME) for Agiorgitiko, producing rich red wines with soft tannins, while Santorini is best known for Assyrtiko, where volcanic soils & angry breezes contribute to its distinctive character.
Key Varieties:
Agiorgitiko, otherwise referred to (by literally no one) as “St. George,” thrives in the “sun-drenched” vineyards of “Nemea,” located in the Peloponnese. This versatile red grape can produce a broad spectrum of wines, ranging from light and fruity to bold and structured (LIKE ME!), showcasing flavors of cherry, plum, and hints of spice. The diverse microclimates in Nemea allow for a variety of “expressions,” making Agiorgitiko a viable option for all manner of palates. It also happens to be an option that is very budget friendly, so every once in a while, you’ll find unbelievable value.
Assyrtiko “reigns supreme” on the volcanic island of Santorini, where its roots literally dig deep into mineral-rich soils. This celebrated little white grape is known for its high acidity and crisp citrus flavors, often described by pretentious “wine experts” as having a remarkable minerality that reflects the island's unique and “rocky” “terroir.” Assyrtiko wines are refreshing and often feature citrus and tropical fruit flavors, floral notes, and distinctive salinity. They are sometimes compared to Sauvignon Blanc, with similarly high acidity and many overlapping fruit characteristics (though Assyrtiko does not usually possess the distinctive green pepper or grass notes associated with SB).
Profile: Citrus rind, orange, honeysuckle, marzipan, canned peach, lychee, wet chalk Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
This was a pretty cool wine for $13, and a strong entry level Greek Assyrtiko (which is often a bit pricier). Unlike the vast majority of the Assyrtiko you’ll find on shelves (when you can indeed find it), this one hails from the Peloponnese and not from Santorini. The lower costs of production and less constraint on production area means that prices are reduced, hence the lower tag on this one.
It is a great dinner wine or just easy sipping, featuring citrus notes, some white flowers and some ripe tropical and stone fruits. It lacked the complexity of some the Santorini Assyrtiko we tasted, but again, for the price, this was great. A little bitter on the finish (think citrus rind), but paired with dinner you’ll hardly notice.
Profile: Red plum, red cherry, wild blackberry, rose petal, dried herbs, sundried tomato, tar, scorched earth, sassafras, clove, copper penny Palate: Dry, high acid, med+ tannin, medium body, long finish
This is one of the best red wines in this price category that I’ve ever had. Red and black fruits, floral notes, savory herbaceous notes and spices along with great tannic structure and “charisma.” This is a relatively accessible wine, so stock up and see if you agree (available vintages at your local zeus juice shop may not be the 2019).
Profile: Wet stone, red cherry, red plum, roses, sour plum skin, thyme, peppery on the palate, hint of baking spice Palate: Bone dry, medium acidity, medium+ tannin, medium body, long finish
Unfortunately, by contrast to the previous vintage (2019, see above), the 2020 GWC Flowers Agiorgitiko fell a bit flat. It’s worth noting that, while Zach and I tried to do a parallel tasting on this, we were unable to get the same vintage, and though we do tend to be very closely aligned on our ratings, our individual palates may be a factor here (stay tuned for an update in a couple of weeks, Zach has a 2019 tucked away for me to taste when I visit, and I’ll force-feed him a few bottles of the 2020 until he agrees with me).
Anyway, this was by no means a bad wine, but for me it was nothing special, featuring red fruit flavors that were a bit sour on the palate, with some subtle herbal and spice notes in the background. The finish was fairly long, but it was a bit thin on the palate and I never found myself hankering for another sip.
If you have a chance to taste either this or the 2019 vintage (or even better — both), PLEASE tell us what you think. Am I under, is he over, or are we both off our gourds here?
Profile: Lemon, lime, peach, white flowers, wet stone, chalk, honey Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
This is a crisp, vibrant “mineral-driven” wine with notes of citrus, peach, flowers and honey (THE GOOD KIND!). It is bone dry with high acidity and a surprisingly long finish. KUDOS to this underappreciated little wine producing Island in Southern Greece for this wonderful little “effort.”
Profile: Mango, passionfruit, pineapple, lemon peel, mandarin orange, chalky wet stone, honeysuckle, jasmine, cream, hint of marzipan Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
WELL maybe I’m off my absolute rocker with the 95 point score here, but this wine was unrealistically good and frankly hard to fault. It featured an array of enticing aromatics, lots of tropical fruit and white flower notes akin to what you might find in a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, layered with citrus notes of lemon peel and ripe mandarin orange, a hint of marzipan and cream. It had a distinctive saline finish and a creamy texture, and all the flavors were incredibly lively and concentrated. The length on this contends with the best of them, lingering for LITERAL YEARS after you sip it. At $25 it’s the most expensive of the wines we tasted today, but a price I would gladly pay for a wine of this quality.
TLDR; if you like concentrated, vibrant, and ripe whites with layered fruit flavors and lots of minerality, you’ll go nuts for this.
