In honor of “Tempranillo Day” (which is no doubt all anyone has been thinking about since the election), we thought it would be fitting to explore some wines from Spain’s most famous wine region. Tempranillo forms the backbone of Rioja reds, with some winemakers using 100% Tempranillo, and others blending in varieties like Garnacha (Grenache), Graciano, and Mazuelo (Carignan) for complexity and balance.
But a word to the wise — if you aren’t a fan of oak in your wine, you may want to sit this one out. Rioja red wines, especially at the Reserva and Gran Reserva levels, are just as much about the integration of oak as they are about the fruit.
THE REGION
Rioja has an ancient history of viticulture that dates back to the Phoenicians, who first nestled their thirsty little grape vines into the Riojan earth around 11th century B.C. Needless to say, it took, and today Rioja produces one of the most iconic styles in the world of wine.
DID YOU KNOW… in spite of what you might be inclined to believe about one of the oldest wine producing regions in the old world, Rioja “traditionally” (in the post-modern, neo-classic, cinema-nouveau sense) uses American oak barrels for aging, which can impart pronounced notes of vanilla and coconut. Wanna know how American oak made its way into the winemaking traditions of Rioja? Clicky clicky.
We won’t get too deep into it this week, but Rioja is divided into three distinct sub-zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. Each area has its own microclimate and soil composition, resulting in noticeable differences in flavor profile.
CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM
Another hallmark of Rioja wines is their “classification system,” which is based on aging requirements rather than terroir. They are categorized as follows:
GENÉRICO
Technically not part of the classification system, Rioja Genérico (sometimes called Joven Rioja aka "young" Rioja) is the most basic (LIKE ME!) style and is subject to no aging requirements. It is typically characterized by little to no oak aging and released within one to two years of harvest. Often just labeled as "Rioja," these wines are simple, fruity and typically lighter bodied than their classified counterparts. They are best enjoyed young.
CRIANZA
Crianza wines are known for their “accessible style,” balancing youthful fruitiness with subtle wood influence from oak aging. Aged for a minimum of one year in oak (typically with 20-30% new oak) and one year in the bottle, these wines typically are typically medium to full bodied, with flavors of red fruit complemented by hints of vanilla and spice. They are made to be approachable and versatile for everyday enjoyment in their youth, but often can improve with bottle age. Crianza Rioja represents a source of great value in the $10 to $20 price range.
RESERVA
Reserva must be aged for at least three years with a minimum of one year in oak (often 30-50% new oak). This extended maturation typically results in greater complexity in the wines, often with layers of ripe red and black fruits, subtle oak, and emerging tertiary notes like leather and tobacco. The refined tannin structure and acidity in these wines make Rioja Reserva suitable for bottle aging.
GRAN RESERVA
Gran Reserva wines represent the “pinnacle” of Rioja winemaking, produced only in exceptional vintages. They must be aged for at least five years, with a minimum of two years in oak (often 50-100% new oak). These wines can exhibit remarkable complexity and intensity, showcasing concentrated fruit flavors, prominent oak spice, and a range of tertiary aromas and flavors such as dried fruits, leather and tobacco. They are capable of aging gracefully for decades in the bottle.
This week we’ve focused our reviews on one bottle from each of the three classified tiers of red Rioja (Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva) — so let’s dive into the juice!
A well made and widely distributed entry level Crianza with a mix of black and red fruits, subtle leather (already showing some early signs of “aging”), and spice. Not nearly as complex as the Reserva and Gran Reserva, but many of you will really like this “easy drinking” style, especially if you fear the “oak monster.”
Profile: Red plum, sour cherry, strawberry, coconut, dill, vanilla, chocolate, black tea, leather, tobacco, mushroom, forest floor Palate: High acid, medium+ tannin, medium body, long finish
This was a really classic Rioja Gran Reserva with a nice balance of tart red fruits, new oak spice notes and tertiary characteristics from almost 9 years of aging. For the ridiculous price of $23 (almost unheard of for a Gran Reserva), we highly recommend getting your greasy meat hooks on this bottle if you can (just so long as you aren’t afraid to get a little wood from your glass).
Profile: Blackcurrant, blackberry, black plum, dried strawberry, vanilla, chocolate, licorice, dill, leather, mixed spice Palate: High acid, high tannin, full body, long finish
This was a great bottle of Reserva Rioja from the Rioja Alta subregion at a bargain price for the category. This is a consistent producer of value Rioja Reserva with wide distribution. This had more of a black fruit profile than the Gran Reserva with surprisingly well integrated oak spice.
WELP that’s our piece for the week. If you want to explore some other Spanish regions producing great wines (and great value!) check out these previous posts:
I was rather chuffed with myself when I serendipitously opened a local Tempranillo yesterday...had no idea it was Tempranillo Day until the early evening... wine win!! (look, we now celebrate the littlest victories coz 2024 has been a doozy 😂).
I've got around half a bottle left for today...so your post has been a wonderful recap that will allow me to taste the grape with a little more thought and perspective.
PS. How good does the La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi Rioja Reserva (totes copied and pasted coz who can remember the tilde shortcut) sound! La Rioja gets me every time. But also the Cerro Añon Rioja Gran Reserva (also copy/pasted...coz 2 sentences isn't enough to remember how to tilde)...so yum with its tart red fruits.
I was rather chuffed with myself when I serendipitously opened a local Tempranillo yesterday...had no idea it was Tempranillo Day until the early evening... wine win!! (look, we now celebrate the littlest victories coz 2024 has been a doozy 😂).
I've got around half a bottle left for today...so your post has been a wonderful recap that will allow me to taste the grape with a little more thought and perspective.
PS. How good does the La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi Rioja Reserva (totes copied and pasted coz who can remember the tilde shortcut) sound! La Rioja gets me every time. But also the Cerro Añon Rioja Gran Reserva (also copy/pasted...coz 2 sentences isn't enough to remember how to tilde)...so yum with its tart red fruits.