Tannic Panic! Issue #80: Is Gavi Just Discount Chablis?
An often-overlooked Italian white wine that offers a budget-friendly alternative to Chablis
If you’re like us, you love a good Chablis. Few whites are on par when you’re looking for a crisp, elegant and zippy pour that pairs beautifully with all manner of fare and drinks just as beautifully a la carte. But the wines of Burgundy’s northerly straggler can get expensive. Trés expensive.
So what if you’re in the market for an elegant, food friendly white wine that won’t gut your piggy bank?
Enter Gavi, stage south – a white wine from the Piedmont region of Italy made from the extremely humble and unassuming “Cortese” grape.
Gavi has many stylistic similarities to Chablis: high acid, citrus & orchard fruit, floral notes, minerality… it’s typically unoaked and easy to pair with food. But a key difference for you frugal wine foragers is the price.
Using TotalWine as a reference, here in the US, the cheapest Chablis typically starts at around the $30 price point, with the average bottle in the $50-60 range, and the most premium examples going for well over $100. For many people that’s far from an everyday sipper, and cracking one with your dinner isn’t necessarily a casual decision. Gavi, on the other hand, tends to fall at the lower end $15-25 range, with a few outliers in either direction.
Now we won’t lie to you and say that you are going to get the exact same experience or find the same average standard of quality with these wines. But if you ask yourself what you are looking to get out of the “experience” (LIKE I DO EVERY MORNING), you can check a lot of the same boxes and get a ton of value in the form of Gavi. Let’s see a little side by side comparison of the styles…
DID YOU KNOW... The name Gavi is linked to a “romantic legend.” According to the story, it’s named after Princess Gavia, who fled to the village after secretly marrying against her father's wishes. Enchanted by her beauty, the region stole her name.
Some technical details for you wine nerds…
Gavi is located in south-eastern Piedmont (aka Piemonte), where vineyards are situated on hills that “benefit” from altitude and sea breezes (LIKE ME!). As a result, there are significant diurnal (diurnal = day v.s. night) temperature variations in the otherwise warm Mediterranean climate, which foster a long, slow ripening process for the Cortese grape and preserve its naturally high acidity and floral character.
Gavi DOCG produces a range of wine styles (still, dry, sweet, sparkling), but today we’re keeping our shiny little spotlight on its classic still and dry expression.
Pale and light-bodied (LIKE ME!), Gavi typically shows a delicate profile of citrus, green apple, pear, and florals, complimented by mineral undertones reminiscent of Chablis. Gavi often gives hints of almonds and honey as well — characteristics that set it apart from its Burgundian counterpart.
As far as the winemaking process goes, winemakers often employ “protective winemaking” techniques aimed at preserving the varietal character of the wines. This means taking measures to prevent oxidation and avoid imparting secondary characteristics (aromas/flavors that result from wine making decisions like MLF, use of oak, or lees aging). Nonetheless, some deranged producers (bless their tiny little hearts) are trying to literally “mix things up” by “experimenting” with old oak vessels and lees stirring to add “complexity.”
Good stuff — now let’s dive into the juice!
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR 100PT RATING SYSTEM WORKS]
2023 Stefano Massone Gavi Vigneto Masera / 85 Points / $13.50
Profile: Green apple, pear, lemon, lime, crushed rock, swimming pool, blossom
Palate: Dry, medium- body, high acid, long finishA refreshing, high-acid wine that showcases a vibrant concentration of citrus and green fruit aromas and flavors, complemented by hints of minerality, floral notes, and a touch of salinity. Pair with a swimming pool and a dull mind.
Score: Balance 33 / Aroma/Flavor 17 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 85 points
2023 Villa Sparina Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG / 88 Points / $16.50
Profile: Green apple, lemon, white flowers, wet stone, chalk, saline, toasted almond
Palate: Dry, medium- body, high acid, long finishA concentrated wine with a nice (though not particularly interesting or unique) aromatic profile. High acid with citrus and green fruit notes, white flowers and some minerality. The flavors are powerful and the finish is long, though the wine quickly takes on a simpler character as the seconds pass.
Score Breakdown: Balance 35 / Aroma/Flavor 16 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 88 points
2023 Tenuta La Marchesa Saula Gavi DOCG / 87 Points / $17
Profile: Pear, white peach, green apple, citrus peel, white flowers, wet stone
Palate: Dry, light body, high acid, medium finishThis wine is incredibly beautiful aromatically, inviting you right into the glass with enticing yet restrained aromatics. The “restraint” carries on with flavors that are unfortunately a bit lacking in concentration, making for a very light and slightly watery body dominated by citrus notes on the palate and a shorter than ideal finish. Nonetheless, a nice delicate and extremely easy to drink wine that can easily be enjoyed on its own or with food.
Score Breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 18 / Concentration 13 / Length 13 / Complexity 7 = 87 points
2022 Marchesi di Barolo Gavi / 84 Points / $21
Profile: Chamomile, golden apple, pear, chalk, crushed sea shells, lime, lemon peel
Palate: Dry, light body, medium acid, medium finishA well-made, albeit light bodied and somewhat “shy” wine with a mix of floral notes, orchard fruits and citrus. The aromatics were appealing, but the acidity was slightly lower than ideal for this style and the flavors were a little muted.
Score Breakdown: Balance 34 / Aroma/Flavor 17 / Concentration 13 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 84 points
Well, if you haven’t dipped your toes into the world of Gavi, this is the sign you’ve been waiting for. Get out there and grab a few bottles and see how it goes.
If you are a seasoned Gavi guzzler, then what do you think — is the comparison to Chablis apt? Are there other alternatives to Chablis you think are even better deals or closer in style?
As always, please roast us in the comments if you’ve got a hot take.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
Wow, I had never heard of gavi before. Very enlightening post! I'd like to try it.
pedri > gavi ... shoutout Piedmont