Tannic Panic! Issue #82: Say Gewürztraminer Ten Times Fast
Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer, Gewürztraminer
Tomorrow we celebrate the bazillionth anniversary of the abolition of prohibition, so in honor of that, we’ve decided to make this week’s topic a wine that typically sports a healthy abv when compared to its confederates: Gewürztraminer.
Gewürztraminer is a highly aromatic grape with a characteristic pink skin color and relatively low acidity. Gewürztraminer is best grown in cool climates (LIKE ME!) which help slow the variety’s quick ripening and preserve what pathetic little shred of acidity (and dignity) the grape may still retain. As a result, Gewürztraminers often have high ABV with low to medium acidity, but very cool climate regions like the Finger Lakes can make “fresher styles” with lower ABVs and higher acidity levels.
DID YOU KNOW… In general, the warmer the climate, the lower the acidity and higher the alcohol of the wines made there. This is because warmer conditions speed up ripening of this precocious little grape, which causes acidity in the grapes to drop, and sugar levels in the grapes to increase (and higher sugar ripeness means more “yeast food” that can be turned into alcohol).
Gewürztraminer translates to "Spice Traminer," reflecting both its suspected geographical origin in the Northern Italian town of Tramin, and its characteristically spicy profile. “Interestingly,” Gewürztraminer is actually a pink-colored mutation of the Savagnin Blanc variety, which is found in the mountainous areas of the Franche-Comté region in central eastern France.
Gewürztraminer's genetic history is “complex” due to its unstable genome (LIKE MINE!). It is part of the Traminer family, which includes several closely related varieties:
Savagnin blanc (green-skinned)
Savagnin rose (pink-skinned mutation)
Gewürztraminer (aromatic mutation with pinkish skin)
Gewürztraminer typically shows prominent notes of lychee, rose, and sweet baking spices. The extra pigment in the grape skins contribute to the golden color often seen in Gewürztraminer wines. The wines are typically full-bodied with a rich, oily texture. They tend to have low to medium acidity and high alcohol content, with 14% ABV not being uncommon.
That said, the style of Gewürztraminer can vary significantly, ranging from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. Most Gewürztraminer wines are produced in a dry to off-dry style, with just a touch of residual sugar that “complements” the grape's naturally low acidity. This slight sweetness and intensity of flavor can go incredibly well with spicy cuisines and aromatic dishes, carving a “unique place” for the wine when it comes to pairing.
Gewürztraminer is grown all over the world in diverse terroirs. In this “issue,” our tastings of Gewürztraminer from Alsace, Washington State, and the Finger Lakes have showcased the grape's ability to express unique characteristics in each region.
Let’s dive into the juice…
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR 100PT RATING SYSTEM WORKS]
2022 B Lovely Gewürztraminer, Washington, USA / 84 Points / $14
Profile: Passionfruit, cantaloupe, pear, grapefruit, flint smoke, white pepper
Palate: Medium sweet, medium acid, medium- body, long finishVery different from the Alsatian style. Fairly light bodied and low alcohol (11.5%), but too sweet for the acidity level and lacking freshness. Slightly bitter finish. Upon first opening, aromas of musty passionfruit dominated, but after several hours open those gave way to subtler notes of pear and melon. If you find yourself wishing there was more sugar and less acid every time you crack into a zippy bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, this could be what you’ve been looking for. For me, it wasn’t the noise.
Score Breakdown: Balance 33 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Intensity 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 6 = 84 Points (I)
2021 Anne de K Gewürztraminer, Alsace, France / 88 Points / $23
Profile: Rose oil, lychee, pineapple, canned peach, tangerine, wet chalk, flint, spice
Palate: Medium sweet, medium acid, full body, long finishFinish is slightly spicy and a tad bitter. Acidity is a little lower than I'd like to really boost the flavors and give it some vibrance, especially since it has noticeable residual sugar. That said, the flavor intensity is high and the aromatics are very enticing. Overall, this wine has a beautiful profile, but if you don’t like wines on the sweeter side, this may not be your jam.
Score Breakdown: Balance 35 / Aroma/Flavor 17 / Intensity 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 88 Points (I)
2019 Famille Hugel Classic Gewürztraminer, Alsace / 81 Points / $24
Profile: Baked apple, peach cobbler, pineapple, honey, clove, candied ginger, white flowers
Palate: Off dry, medium acid, medium body, medium finishThis wine was loaded with baked and tropical fruits, honeyed character, sweet baking spices and floral notes. The residual sugar was very apparent in this “off dry” style of wine (15g/L RS) and the medium level of acidity was insufficient to balance the sweetness of the wine in my opinion, making it a bit more “cloying” than I would have “liked.” Maybe “some people” will really enjoy this sweeter style of Alsatian Gewurz, but I’m not one of them. For what it’s worth, generous James Suckling rated this wine 92 points, so you can try it for yourself and tell me if my assessment is unhinged.
Score Breakdown: Balance 32 / Aroma/Flavor 16 / Concentration 15 / Length 11 / Complexity 7 = 81 points (Z)
2023 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Dry Gewürztraminer, Finger Lakes, NY / 90 Points / $29
Profile: Lychee, pineapple, green apple, peach, orange blossom, roses, lemon peel, mixed spice
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finishReally textbook dry Gewürz flavor profile with an oily mouthfeel along with the quintessential lychee, roses, spice and tropical fruits notes on the palate. Unlike many Gewürztraminer wines, this had high acidity, which really balanced out the more ripe tropical fruit flavors. Ya done good Finger Lakes.
Score Breakdown: Balance 35 / Aroma/Flavor 18 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 90 points (Z)
Here’s where we land — Gewürztraminer offers a pretty unique experience and sometimes it is the perfect choice for that spicy(traminer) entree you’re cooking up. For us, the best expressions are typically from the coolest climates and show restraint on the residual sugar. But if you like something with a little sweetness to it, these wines can be really beautiful.
Now gewurz your ass to the wine shop and guzzle a few.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
Nearly nailed it but needed a breath after the 8th Gewürztraminer 8! That's coz I love the grape and find any excuse to say Gewürztraminer. I'm not super intrigued by Gewurz from FLX...it's always a delight to find a bottle with higher acidity...but I've also come to enjoy the lower acid and a bit of RS. Such a festive appropriate post...wish I had a glass to accompany my gingerbread decorating.