As Valentine's Day prepares to wrap us in its warm, fuzzy blanket, we're diving headfirst into the robust, tannic “charm” of Brunello di Montalcino (and taking a look at its dubious past)
Hello, Upper East Sippers. Tannic Panic here, your one and only source into the scandalous lives of the winemaker elite. #Brunellogate
Spotted: A tall, dark, and oaky stranger slipping into your dinner plans. Brunello di Montalcino—rich, brooding, and aged just long enough to know exactly what it’s doing. With a reputation for being high-maintenance (minimum five years in the cellar, darling), this is no casual fling.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most famous and highly regarded wines, sporting an unrealistically rich history and long holding a reputation for exceptional quality (LIKE ME!). Produced in the vineyards surrounding Montalcino — a picturesque town in the province of Siena, Tuscany — the history of Brunello is deeply intertwined with the region's agricultural “traditions.”
Initially, Montalcino was known for sweet and sparkling white wines (NOT THE GOOD KIND!), but the devastating effects of Phylloxera (a root eating parasite that has a taste for the good stuff) led to the widespread cultivation of Sangiovese Grosso in place of the decimated vines of yore.
Real photograph of Phylloxera eating their fill
The first modern version of Brunello was released by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi in 1888, marking a significant “milestone” in the wine's “development.” By the 1960s, Brunello had gained DOC status, and in 1980, it became one of the first Italian wines to receive the “prestigious” DOCG designation, further solidifying its reputation as a world-class wine. Today, Brunello di Montalcino is known for its complex flavors, high tannins, and remarkable aging potential, but there was a time not too long ago where its prestige and INDEED its very future were jeopardized by scandal.
BRUNELLOGATE
In 2008, while global finances were going up in flames, a different kind of “crisis” cropped up in the rolling hills of Montalcino. Dubbed “Brunellogate” by English speakers (and “Brunellopoli” in Italy—thanks to the national habit of tacking “-poli” onto scandals, courtesy of the 1990s Tangentopoli affair), it was hyped as the wine world’s apocalypse. Many foretold the demise of Brunello—centuries-old estates were supposedly on the brink of total ruin, blah blah blah. Fast-forward a decade, and… well, you’d be forgiven for forgetting the whole fiasco ever happened (LIKE ME!).
Now, DOCG rules say Brunello di Montalcino must be made with 100% Sangiovese grapes—no cheating allowed! That rigidity has been around for millions of years, which is why the invention of “Super Tuscans” shook things up: they’re Sangiovese blends or even Bordeaux style blends (sans Sangiovese) that don’t bend the humble knee to those strict DOCG standards. But for Brunello di Montalcino, the DOCG label is a badge of honor that ensures absolute purity—and often times, an unforgiving “price tag.”
DID YOU KNOW… Brunello is required to age in barrels and bottle for a total of 5 years, meaning that the youngest vintage that can be purchased anywhere right now is 2020 (which was only just released).
In March 2008, James Suckling (AKA Generous James) and Italian journalist Franco Ziliani dropped a bombshell: a smattering of Brunello’s top producers (at least 20 of them) were accused of blending foreign or non-Sangiovese grapes into their wines to lure global palates. If true, it was fraud—prison time, seized bottles, ruined reputations, and potentially even a bad night’s sleep.
As a result, the U.S. threatened to slam its proverbial doors on Brunello unless it was undeniably 100% Sangiovese. Vineyards got quarantined. Bottles were confiscated. The press ran wild, with some headlines even hinting at potential health risks—claims the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino fought back against in court. Meanwhile, longtime critics who’d been side-eyeing those inky-dark Brunellos (broadly speaking Sangiovese is relatively light in color) for years were more than a little smug at this “new” revelation.
Producers, in a little “crisis of faith,” began wondering if that sacred “100% rule” was still worth the headache. But after an excruciatingly wholesome vote, they decided to stick to tradition; the DOCG label would remain the pure, unadulterated Sangiovese seal of approval we all “know and love.”
Not too long after that a number of producers were cleared for “lack of evidence,” while roughly a fifth of the region’s wineries quietly lost their DOCG status. Other than that it’s basically like it never happened. The wine is still fire, people still buy it, and all is good and merry with the world (except the stuff that isn’t).
The biggest legacy of Brunellogate? A spotlight on transparency in the winemaking process—and a cautionary tale about mixing your grapes when no one’s looking (but if you want to do it in your free time, we won’t tell (in fact we “encourage it”) 😉).
Profile: Black cherry, chocolate, grape, tar, blackberry, licorice Palate: Dry, full body, high tannin, high acid, medium+ finish
Solid entry level Brunello sold exclusively at Trader Joes. This one was definitely a bit lighter and simpler than any of the others we tasted for this post, but still it has a “sense of terroir” (meaning it is reminiscent of Brunello). If you are on a budget and want to get a taste of the style, this is not a bad entry point, but in my opinion you are getting what you pay for; it doesn’t quite do the style justice.
Nevertheless, it’s an enjoyable wine and it’s infinitely better on day 2, so my advice is open this and wait.
Profile: Red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, red plum, dried herbs, mint, juniper, eucalyptus, mixed spice, copper penny, sassafras, licorice, hint of mocha Palate: Dry, medium+ body, high acid, high tannin, long finish
This has more of a quintessential Chianti Classico profile in my opinion, dominated by red fruits, dried herbs, and a rustic “copper penny” note. The wine also has a unique minty eucalyptus note, reminiscent of what “we” often find in certain Australian red wines. While this is a very good Brunello for the price category, you can absolutely find similar or better quality Chianti Classico or Chianti Rufina wines for about half the price of this, in my “humble” opinion.
[NOTE: Wine Searcher lists the average price as $52, but we got it for ~$40 which is around the price it goes for in a large number of stores]
Profile: Intense bright cherry, dried cranberry, chocolate, orange peel, cola, graphite, roses, wet stone, copper penny, hint of mint Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acid, full body, long finish
This wine was enchantingly beautiful aromatically. I couldn’t get enough. Bright red fruit, candied orange peel, chocolate, graphite, a hint of mint — lots going on and it kept developing in the glass. Incredibly well balanced, “round” (AND PROUD) tannins, and a super long finish. Would have revisited day 2, had I been physically capable of not imbibing the whole thing in one sip.
[NOTE: Average price on Wine Searcher is $49 but I found it on sale for $40 at K&L]
Profile: Black cherry, black plum, dried cherry, prune, dried strawberry, leather, tobacco, bitter almond, copper penny, wet stone, roses, dried oregano, espresso, mint, orange peel Palate: Dry, full body, high acid, high tannin, long finish
Beautiful wine from the exceptional 2019 vintage in Tuscany. This wine has a mix of black and red fruits including dried fruits, great concentration, and “angry” tannic structure, but already starting to show some tertiary notes (leather, tobacco) from the initial stages of bottle aging. This “puppy” has a long life ahead of it and should definitely continue to develop additional layers of “personality” (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH) with further aging in the bottle. Great stuff!
Profile: Black cherry, black plum, blackberry, dried cherry, dried blueberry, forest floor, sundried tomato, mixed spice, wet stone, licorice, earth, dark chocolate, violets, roses, leather, tobacco Palate: Dry, full body, high acid, high tannin, long finish
Incredible Brunello from the legendary 2016 Tuscan vintage with great complexity starting to show from 9 years of aging. This is concentrated, structured, rustic and complex with a mix of black and blue fruits, along with ample floral and earthy notes, well integrated oak spice and minerality. A great example of premium BdM for a relative “value” pricepoint in this “prestigious category.” Highly recommend this wine if you can find it.
[NOTE: We found this for under $50 at a local wine shop. SHOP AROUND FOR DEALS!]
Profile: Violet, mixed berry, cherry, mocha, toasted chocolate, root beer, tobacco, bay leaf, slightly soapy aroma, thyme, spice Palate: Dry, ultra high tannin, full body, high acid, long finish
Intensely rich flavors, super grippy tannins that coat your mouth like a fine sandpaper (THE GOOD KIND!), beautiful mixed berry and floral aromatics with some herbal and spice characteristics. Quite a bit of complexity and a lot of evolution as the wine opens up. This was a beautiful wine, but it wasn’t as enchanting as the Caparzo – and perhaps this is a vintage factor, but if it were up to me, I’d reach for the 2019 Caparzo over this.
With its layers of deep red fruit, velvety tannins, and the occasional “kiss” of chocolate and roses, Brunello’s basically Valentine’s Day in a bottle—minus the wildly mismatched gift-giving.
Drink it young for a bold, energetic romance, or let it age into something deep, complex, and full of personality (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH!). Either way, Brunello’s got the kind of charm that lingers long after the last sip (LIKE ME AT A DINNER PARTY).
Now wander forth, pop a bottle, and let the romance (or the existential contemplation) begin. 🍷💘
Yeah, that Trader Joe's Brunello is...fine. For the price not bad but so many better wines for $25! Interesting the Carpazo scored so high. I was not a fan of the 2017 and haven't looked back, but I heard that was an extra-challenging year for Brunello on the whole.
I used to be a wine producer in the Languedoc. Back in the day when all appellation wines had to pass a tasting panel, I was (once) invited to taste for the higher Grès de Montpellier jury. We tasted 12 wines and 7 were immediately disqualified. 2 more were unanimously passed by all 3 of us. We argued over the remaining 3 wines. 2 over quality (they did not pass). The last wine was excellent quality but I had a small problem. It was a Cabernet Sauvignon, something that my fellow tasters failed to notice. Cabernet Sauvignon is not an authorised variety in the Languedoc AOCs.
They overruled me and passed it anyway. And I was not invited back on to that tasting panel.
Yeah, that Trader Joe's Brunello is...fine. For the price not bad but so many better wines for $25! Interesting the Carpazo scored so high. I was not a fan of the 2017 and haven't looked back, but I heard that was an extra-challenging year for Brunello on the whole.
I used to be a wine producer in the Languedoc. Back in the day when all appellation wines had to pass a tasting panel, I was (once) invited to taste for the higher Grès de Montpellier jury. We tasted 12 wines and 7 were immediately disqualified. 2 more were unanimously passed by all 3 of us. We argued over the remaining 3 wines. 2 over quality (they did not pass). The last wine was excellent quality but I had a small problem. It was a Cabernet Sauvignon, something that my fellow tasters failed to notice. Cabernet Sauvignon is not an authorised variety in the Languedoc AOCs.
They overruled me and passed it anyway. And I was not invited back on to that tasting panel.