Infuckulated amongst Sicily’s picturesque “slopes,” the Etna DOC encircles the active volcano of the same name. The region is a source of high quality red and white wines (Rosso and Bianco), but in keeping with our personal preferences, this week we’re focusing on Etna Rosso (THE RED KIND). Etna Bianco to come at “a later date.”
Etna Rosso is made primarily from the indigenous Nerello Mascalese, with many bottles featuring 100% of the variety, but it is also often blended with a small percentage of the equally-indigenous Nerello Cappuccio, which can contribute some color and aromatics to the wine.
These vines thrive in the mineral-rich, sandy volcanic soils, imparting a characteristic freshness and minerality to the wines that distinguish them from other Sicilian reds (like the middling Nero D’Avola that dominates much of the broader region).
What do these wines taste like?
Our best analogy for those of you who have never enjoyed one (nor tried one) would be an imaginary blend of Oregon pinot and your favorite Langhe nebbiolo. Earthiness, a touch of smoke or ash, floral notes, tart red fruit, and structure. Maybe a dash of dried herbs and spice, depending on the bottle.
Etna Rosso wines typically feature a vibrant acidity that really ties the room together. That’s attributable to the high elevation (often exceeding 1,000 meters) where high diurnal range (temperature fluctuations between day and night) allow the grapes to ripen and “complexify” (an absolutely real word) while preserving acidity.
When all is said and done, this results in wines that are both elegant and structured, many of which are capable of graceful and “nuanced” evolution as they age (LIKE ME).
An unrealistically brief history of the region:
Established in 1968 (UNLIKE ME) as Sicily’s first DOC, the vineyards of Mount Etna “stretch” across the mountain’s eastern, northern, and southern slopes at elevations ranging from 400 to 1,300 meters, making it one of the highest (LIKE ME IN HIGH SCHOOL) wine regions in Europe. The volcanic soils, formed from centuries of angry eruptions, are rich in basalt, ash, and pumice, creating a mineral-laden, phylloxera-resistant environment where many old, pre-phylloxera vines still thrive. [For those unfamiliar, the cliff notes on phylloxera is that these little root munching “fleas of the earth,” as they are widely not referred to, essentially wiped out almost all vitis vinifera vines that were not grafted onto American rootstocks. As a result, almost no pre-phylloxera plantings exist in Europe, except in a select handful of regions that have unique soil or geographic conditions that prevented those pesky little pesticles from invading.]
Despite the ever-present risks of volcanic activity—lava flows have destroyed vineyards as recently as 2021—intrepid winemakers continue to literally push the boundaries on pushing the boundaries; reclaiming old vines, farming “organically,” and planting at even higher (THAN ME IN HIGH SCHOOL) elevations to stave off the mighty lava flows from Etna’s little temper tantrums. The result is a wine region unlike any other, where the raw power of the humble volcano meets the elegance of “meticulously crafted wines.”
Speaking of meticulously crafted…
DID YOU KNOW… The Nerello Mascalese grape, the star of Etna Rosso, is so thin-skinned and delicate that it is often likened to Pinot Noir, and the shared characteristics have earned Etna the nickname “Burgundy of the Mediterranean”
Really well structured and charismatic wine with a profile dominated by tart red berries (THE SOUR KIND!), rose petals, and earthy notes, along with chalky minerality and spice. Classic Etna "terroir" also makes an appearance with a subtle smoky, “volcanic ash” note on the finish. This is a beautiful expression of Etna Rosso at a relatively bargain price for the quality. Great stuff!
Profile:Strawberry, pomegranate, tart cherry, baking spice, orange peel, wet stone, campfire, earth Palate: Dry, high acid, medium+ tannin, medium body, long finish
Blend: 100% Nerello Mascalese
It almost wouldn’t be a complete Tannic Panic! Italian wine post if I didn’t feature a bottle from Bacci wines. Well, rest easy, because here it is. This wine is well structured with sharp acidity and surprisingly grippy tannins. It features tart red fruits, led by strawberry, with a supporting cast of earthy and mineral notes. There’s some characteristic smoky/ashy aromatics that are reminiscent of a dwindling campfire. A touch of varietal driven spice give it a little more dimensionality. All around, this was a cool wine that I’d strongly recommend for anyone who wants an easy sipper that also goes with dinner.
Profile: Strawberry, red plum, cranberry, mint, smoke, copper penny, earth, wet stone, orange peel, balsamic, leather Palate: Dry, medium body, high acid, medium tannin, long finish
Blend: 100% Nerello Mascalese
Another good wine, dominated by tart red fruits, a minty note, earth, smoke, and allegedly “volcanic” minerality. One aspect that detracted slightly from the overall balance was the somewhat obvious volatile acidity, very high acidity and astringency. Perhaps this could have benefited from blending with a dollop of the old Nerello Capuccio grape and/or pairing with a “hearty” meal, but I guess we’ll never find out.
I'm heading to Sicily in about 10 days - exciting times!