Tannic Panic! Issue #43: A Battle for Value in Sonoma Valley
Plonk v.s. Price Tag: Real estate costs make value plays tricky in California's famed North Coast AVAs (*cough* Napa and Sonoma). But when you know where to look, you'll be delighted what you find!
WELL, WELL, WELL, if it isn’t YOU AGAIN. It’s Wednesday, which means your trembling little digits are “literally dying” to snatch a few bottles of that “purple juice” we all know and love, under the indispensable guidance of our unassuming “expertise.”
We’re finally caving in and talking about the most popular wine grape in the world from the most popular wine state in the world written by the most “influential” wine bloggers in “the world”... It’s Cabernet Sauvignon… from California.
More specifically, we’re exploring a little “nook” in the North Coast called Sonoma, which sits in the figurative shadow of its extremely “prestigious” neighbor, Napa. People often talk about the incredible Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, leaving Sonoma as a bit of an afterthought (it’s better known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), but the reality is there are world class Cabs being produced there too.
Like its little buddy to the east, it’s far from the easiest place in the world to find value — but BELIEVE YOU ME, it can be done.
Before we go too far, let’s talk a little about the humble varietal in question.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Cabernet Sauvignon is a “highly regarded” grape variety that has gained immense popularity around the world. Originating in France, it is now produced in virtually every major winemaking region.. Known for its thick skin (UNLIKE ME), resistance to the elements, and ease of growth, Cabernet Sauvignon can be found in many regions around the world.
Cabernet Sauvignon's “adaptability” to different climates and soils has contributed to its widespread viticultural success. It thrives in warm climates, such as those found in Napa Valley and Sonoma County, but also performs well in cooler regions like Bordeaux, where it benefits from the moderating influence of the Atlantic Ocean. This versatility has allowed Cabernet Sauvignon to become the most popular wine grape in the world, with a strong presence in both Old World and New World wine regions.
DID YOU KNOW… Cabernet Sauvignon is a serendipitous crossbreed (aka a “happy accident” (LIKE ME!)) between Cabernet Franc (“daddy”) and Sauvignon Blanc (“mommy”). The name seems like a giveaway, but the “lineage” wasn’t officially confirmed until about 15 years ago through “DNA testing.”
SONOMA COUNTY WINES
Sonoma County is “tucked away” (LIKE MY SELF ESTEEM) in the heart of California's wine country, and is well known for its diverse and exceptional wines that reflect a rich historical “legacy.” With a winemaking “tradition” dating back to the “dinosaur age,” Sonoma County has evolved into a prominent wine region known for its quality and variety. Sonoma’s unique terroir, influenced by its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and coastal mountain ranges contributes to the distinctive flavors and characteristics of Sonoma Valley wines.
The region’s diverse microclimates and soils offer ideal conditions for growing Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. This highly esteemed variety thrives in warmer climates, and areas like the Alexander Valley AVA, Dry Creek Valley AVA, Knights Valley which offer the necessary warmth and all important “rays” from “Mr. Golden Sun” for the grapes to fully ripen, developing the sugar levels and tannins needed to produce rich, full-bodied, and complex wines.
The diverse soils, particularly the gravelly and loamy soils found in Sonoma's valleys, provide ample drainage and stress the vines appropriately, leading to smaller berries with more concentrated flavors. Additionally, the cool nights and morning fog in areas closer to the coast or influenced by the “cooling breezes” from San Pablo Bay provide a diurnal temperature variation that is essential for developing acidity in the grapes, balancing the fruit's ripeness and ensuring the wines have sufficient structure and “aging potential” (LIKE ME).
SONOMA VS NAPA
When you think of California Cabernet Sauvignon, the “prestigious” Napa Valley often steals the “spotlight” in your dense little mind. Napa Valley is renowned for its bold and opulent wines that have long defined “luxury” in the pretentious world of wine.
While Napa Valley's reputation as a premier wine region exudes exclusivity, snobbery and sophistication, the more “humble” Sonoma County wine region “next door” presents a more diverse and accessible “experience” (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH).
Sonoma's wines excel in quality across a broad spectrum of varieties and styles, thanks to its diverse array of microclimates. From the cool coastal AVAs “celebrated” for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to the warmer inland AVAs, such as Dry Creek Valley AVA and Alexander Valley AVA known for Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and various “international varieties,” Sonoma County offers a rich tapestry of flavors and styles.
Sonoma County stands out as a prime source of exceptional value in Cabernet Sauvignon wines compared to Napa Valley, attributed to its lower “prestige factor” and pricing. While Sonoma enjoys high esteem in the wine world, it avoids the super premium pricing associated with Napa Valley's global reputation and brand prestige.
The cost of land in Sonoma County, while still high, is generally lower than in the most prestigious parts of Napa Valley. This difference can translate into lower production costs for wineries, which can then be passed on to consumers in the form of lower-priced wines.
Additionally, Sonoma's wineries range from large, well-established producers to small, “family-run” operations, offering a variety of pricing strategies and value propositions.
NEATO! Let’s dive into the juice.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2020 Louis Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon / 88 Points / $17 (VALUE PICK!)
Profile: Black cherry, blackberry, red cherry, blueberry, prune, thyme, licorice, black pepper, cocoa powder
Palate: Dry, medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity, medium+ body, long finish
A very fresh style of Cabernet Sauvignon with a good balance of savory and spicy notes. The oak influence is very much in the background and adds complexity without overpowering the palate. “Refreshingly,” there’s no trace of the “oak monster” to be found in this one, unlike many Cali cabs. This is a great wine for the price and should be widely available at many wine retailers and even some grocery stores (Isaac found one for under $14 at H-E-B in ye olde Tejas, FOR EXAMPLE).
88 points.
2021 Alexander Valley Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / 90 Points / $19 (DOUBLE VALUE PICK!)
Profile: Black currant, cedar, licorice, vanilla, black pepper, pencil shavings
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acidity, full body, long finish
Unlike many of its Alexander Valley “value” counterparts, this wine shows absolutely no signs of recipe winemaking manipulation. On the contrary, it has rich, concentrated flavors and shows complexity in its youth.
We tasted numerous bottles from Alexander Valley AVA (mostly with a significantly higher price tag), and none of them delivered even close to this level of quality. That’s the curse of the regional cost of production… except apparently for these guys. Year after year, Alexander Valley Vineyards impresses with the quality of its widely available estate bottled Cab.
THIS, dear friends, is value (especially at H-E-B where Isaac was able to nab it for $17 🤯).
90 Points.
2019 Dry Creek Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / 89 Points / $20 (TRIPLE VALUE PICK!)
Profile: Black cherry, black plum, blackberry, thyme, cedar, violets, licorice, mocha
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acidity, full body long finish
Blend: 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc
This puppy is a rich, concentrated Cabernet-dominant “Bordeaux style blend” from the under appreciated Dry Creek Valley AVA. This has all the classic characteristics of a great left bank Bordeaux, but the primary fruit is a bit more prominent and concentrated than its French counterpart.
89 points.
2017 Rodney Strong Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon / 90 Points / $40
Profile: Blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, black plum, cedar, violets, figs, wet stone, tobacco, petrichor, chocolate fudge
Palate: Dry, full body, medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity, long finish
This is a “textbook example” of a well balanced, yet concentrated Sonoma Cabernet with great structure. It’s already “expressing” some tertiary aromatic complexity from 7 years of bottle aging. In our humble (and correct) opinion, this is a much better wine than most similarly priced Napa Valley Cabs.
90 points
THE “DNR” LIST (DO NOT RECOMMEND)
2021 Bedford Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon / 73 Points / $30 (??!!)
Notes: Welch’s grape juice, black cherry, plum, mocha, vanilla (the fake kind). Dry to slightly off dry. Medium tannin, medium acidity, medium finish.
Fairly simple wine with a confectionary/chemical grapey taste and slight fake vanilla flavor that I associate with bad cheap wine. Incredible ripoff. F********CK!
2019 Kicker Cane Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon / 75 Points / $25
Notes: Welch’s grape juice, maple syrup, black currant, spice, graphite, orange chocolate, spoiled fruit. Slightly off dry, high tannin, medium acidity, short finish.
Once the spoiled fruit aromas mostly blew off, it became more interesting and pleasant aromatically, but on the palate it resembles mass market cabs of a much lower order: Welch’s grape juice, residual sugar, maple syrup, spoiled fruit. 75 points is generous.
2022 Olema Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon / 82 Points / $30
Notes: Blackberry, blueberry, plum, violet, vanilla. Dry, medium+ tannin, medium acidity, medium finish.
Pretty simple and fruity. A bit young, slightly bitter tannins, but with age bitterness will decrease and complexity & depth of flavor should develop. All things considered, not a bad wine, but unfortunately with the region comes the price tag, and this one didn’t deliver nearly the quality level I qualify as a value wine at this price point. All around pleasant, but I would gladly save my money for something better.
Here’s where we’ve landed: Sonoma actually has some amazing value plays if you pick your bottles carefully. But it is a region where, like many other parts of California, you have massive competition in a very difficult to navigate space in terms of profitability. That means the plonks-a-plenty, so buyer beware.
LUCKILY FOR YOU, we’ve identified some serious winners.
Now go out there and celebrate by grabbing a few million bottles of each and chugging them responsibly.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
*NOTE: Some scores have been adjust to reflect a change in scoring criteria and may differ from the original reviews.
Any favorite Sonoma wineries I should visit?