Tannic Panic! Issue #44: Gimme One Riesling to Stay Here
It's International Riesling Day so let's "celebrate" this wonderful little varietal
OH ESTEEMED WINOS, what a fine “Wednesday” to be alive.
Believe it or not, by none other than SHEER COINCIDENCE, we “chose today” to present you with a deep dive into the shallow end of Riesling — the very day that someone (or multiple someones) randomly decided to deem “International Riesling Day.”
Indeed, as a cursory Google search will suggest, it’s actually a thing.
How fitting.
Well, today we’re going to break down a few “wrong ideas” you “most likely” have about this extremely wholesome white wine, and talk a little bit about some of the top European regions producing it. And of course, “as usual,” we have a couple recommendations for you maniacs.
RIESLING THE GRAPE
Riesling is a highly esteemed white “aromatic grape” variety known for its exceptional ability to produce outstanding wines with a beautiful balance of acidity and fruit flavors. Originating from the underappreciated winemaking country known simply as “Germany,” Riesling has made its merry little way to various countries around the globe, including Austria, Northern France (Alsace region) and New World winemaking regions such as Australia and the U.S. (most notably the Finger Lakes and Washington State).
This grape thrives in cool climates, where it expresses its “best qualities,” although there have been “attempts” to grow this unrealistically noble berry in “warmer regions” with varying degrees of success.
RIESLING THE WINE
There’s a common misconception about Riesling — the idea that it’s always a sweet, un-complex wine. This stems from the prevalence of sweeter Rieslings in the “market” (LIKE YOUr local grocery store). In reality, Riesling wines can vary from bone dry to sweet, and feature a wide array of profiles depending upon the region of origin and the style being produced.
Young Rieslings exhibit charming fruitiness, often showcasing notes of green apple, citrus, stone fruits like peach, apricot, and “exotic fruits” (you know what I’m talking about). As Rieslings age, they can develop complex “mineral notes” reminiscent of slate or flint.
Another unique feature of aged Rieslings is the development of a “petrol-like” aroma (THE GOOD KIND), which may not appeal to all wine consumers, but certainly adds to the “complexity” and “charm” of the Riesling variety.
KEY EUROPEAN RIESLING REGIONS
Alsace, France:
Riesling from Alsace (AKA "the Germany of France") is highly regarded for its unique winemaking style influenced by both France and Germany. This is due to the fact that the border has crossed the region at various times throughout history, creating a cultural blend that is uniquely Alsatian.
Situated at the far north-eastern edge of France, the region is both naturally beautiful and charming, with fairytale-like villages surrounded by mountains and even medieval castles.
Alsace straddles the Rhine river, and produces dry Rieslings that defy the traditional perception of sweet Rieslings. These wines are characterized by floral and peachy aromas, offering a balance of vibrant acidity and rich texture without oak aging. Alsace's diverse terroirs contribute to the production of elegant, aromatic wines with a distinct varietal character. The region is home to prestigious Alsace Grand Cru vineyards, further enhancing the quality and reputation of its top Rieslings.
Germany:
Germany is renowned for its exceptional Riesling production, with a long-standing reputation for crafting some of the finest examples of this noble grape variety. German Rieslings are celebrated for their purity, precision, and ability to reflect their terroir. The country's cool climate and diverse soils create a perfect environment for producing a wide range of Riesling styles, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, though the vast majority of German Rieslings do feature some residual sugar.
German Rieslings are known for their vibrant acidity, pronounced fruit flavors such as green apple, citrus, stone fruits and mineral nuances, making them versatile wines that can age gracefully over time.
The classification system in Germany categorizes Rieslings based on “must weight” (sugar content of the juice) ranging from Kabinett (lowest must weight; light and off-dry) to Trockenbeerenauslese (highest must weight; intensely sweet). Stricter standards govern the grapes that can be used for the wines at the highest tiers of the Prädikat pyramid, and thus they often (but not always) command higher prices.
The whole system can be a bit confusing, but if you want to “attempt” to understand it better, here’s an article that explains it all fairly well.
Austria:
Although it is most famous for producing exceptional white wines from Grüner Veltliner, Austria has also gained “recognition” as a key European wine region for producing exceptional dry Rieslings that showcase precision, elegance, and minerality.
Austrian Rieslings are known for their purity of fruit expression, vibrant acidity, and remarkable aging potential. The country's unique climate and diverse terroirs contribute to the complexity and character of its Rieslings.
Austrian winemakers focus on crafting terroir-driven wines that reflect the distinctiveness of their vineyard sites. The Wachau region in Austria is particularly renowned for its high-quality Rieslings grown on steep terraced vineyards along the Danube River. Neato!
PRODUCTION
Riesling grapes require delicate handling during harvesting to avoid skin damage that could affect the wine's flavor profile. The vinification process involves careful temperature control to preserve the delicate flavors of the grapes. Unlike some other white wines like Chardonnay, most Rieslings do not undergo malolactic fermentation, helping to maintain their natural “aromatic” characteristics, and very high acidity.
Many “esteemed” wine “experts” would consider Riesling to be the “the king of white wines” due to its exceptional versatility in producing a wide range of high quality wine styles from dry to sweet, and for its exceptional ability to develop further complexity with age (LIKE ME!).
Cool. Let’s dive into the juice.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2021 Römerhof Riesling, Kabinett, Mosel, Germany / 87 Points / $14
Profile: Apple, sunflower, almond, rubber.
Palate: Off dry, high acid, medium body, medium finish.
The 2021 Römerhof Riesling from the Mosel is a simple and pleasant example of inexpensive German Kabinett Riesling. It features notes of apple and sunflower, a hint of almond, and a little rubbery note that is not uncommon in Riesling.
It sports some residual sugar (off dry) which is kept in check by very high acidity.
At this price point I think there are better options out there for white wines generally (SEE BELOW), but as far as an introduction to Kabinett Riesling, this is not the worst place to start.
87 Points.
2022 Willm Riesling Reserve, Alsace, France / 91+ Points / $15 (VALUE PICK!!)
Profile: Lemon, lime, green apple, peach, honeysuckle, orange blossom, wet rock, petrol
Palate: Dry, medium body, high acid, long finish
An incredibly well made dry Alsatian Riesling for the price, with classic varietal character and aromatic complexity. Showed citrus fruits, floral notes and fresh minerality. Razor sharp acidity and a long finish.
Pair with Samosas.
91+ Points.
2021 Pierre Sparr Riesling, Grande Réserve, Alsace, France / 90+ Points / $16
Profile: Green apple, pear, lime, orange peel, peach, lily, wet stone
Palate: dry, HIGH ACID, light body, long finish
Beautiful aromatics, very fresh and super crisp acid. It would have scored even higher, but right now the acidity is a bit high when chugging a whole bottle a la carte, so it loses a few marks for balance. A little more ripeness or perhaps just the softening power of time (tis ageworthy) and this will be on another level!
That said, while this wine will undoubtedly continue to evolve with age, it is very nice now too (LIKE ME!).
Paired it with lentil soup and it sang like Aretha.
90+ points.
2022 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Kabinett Riesling Mosel, Germany / 90 Points / $26
Profile: Green apple, lemon, blossom, pear, white peach, slate, honey
Palate: Off dry, medium body, high acid, medium finish
Like the Römerhof Riesling, this is a “Kabinett” Riesling from the Mosel region, the “lightest” style of Riesling in the Prädikat system. This wine is only 8.5% ABV with a little bit of sweetness backed by very high acidity and minerality.
If you like a hint of sugar to “balance” out the acidity, this might be your “play.” This is a good quality wine made in a style that we at Tannic Panic are not a huge fan of, but many people may enjoy this.
Pair with papaya Salad (the Thai kind), or your favorite chick flick.
90 Points.
If you haven’t explored what the wonderful little world of Riesling has to offer, there truly is no better day than today to do so. We here at Tannic Panic are certainly more drawn to the crisp dry styles out there, but the beautiful thing about this wine is that there is something for every palate.
Get out there and start guzzling.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
You gave me many good rieslings to read this! Cheers!