Tannic Panic! Issue #37: Meemaw Loves Malbec
Went to bed in France, woke up in Argentina. Plz send help.
What’s POPPIN you neolithic moose mongering winosaurs? Malbec is a wine with a “rich" history that spans the globe, and while premium examples that cost more than most of us would care to spend on a little sippy sip of Zeus juice are certainly out there, by and large Malbec is also an extremely good source of value. That’s why, today, we’ve decided to focus our “efforts” on this delightfully wholesome varietal.
The history of Malbec is a tale of humble origins and changing nationalities. In the “Old World” (basically Europe) Malbec has roots in the Cahors region of France, renowned for producing the famous 'Black Wine of Cahors', and Bordeaux, where it once served as a key blending grape in the red wines of the region. However, its presence in France has dwindled over the years.
OH NO! WHY DID THIS HAPPEN? Well, on the ever important 60th anniversary of the Hungarian revolution in 1956, mean old Mr. Frost came a hootin and hollerin and absolutely devastated the Malbec vines in France. Indeed the severity of the frost killed a majority of the Malbec vines in Bordeaux, leading many growers to abandon the crop and replant with “different varieties” that fared better in extremely cold conditions.
The same devastation tore through the plantings in Cahors as well, but instead of throwing in the towel like their Bordeauxian neighbors, growers elected to replant the vines, and THUS its extremely wholesome legacy lives on in the tiny little hearts and hands and backyards of the French people.
MEANWHILE, 6922.6965 miles away… Malbec has found a new home in the great South American nation of Argentina. And indeed, much like today’s youth, it has experienced a “re-awakening.” Today over 70% of the world’s Malbec plantings live comfortably in Argentina.
Malbec is considered to be the “most important” red wine in Argentina. The varietal made a BIG SPLASH in Argentina thanks to the efforts of French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget, who introduced the grape to the country in the 1850s. He was commissioned by provincial governor Domingo Faustino Sarmiento to bring grapevine cuttings from France to improve the quality of Argentine wines.
To say that these efforts were a great success would be an understatement. The unassuming Malbec grape found its ideal home in Argentina's mountainous landscapes, especially in regions like Mendoza, San Juan, and Salta, where it quickly thrived, leading to its “international fame” that we all “recognize” “today”.
The unique style of Argentine Malbec, characterized by its deep color and intense fruity flavors, has contributed to its success in the country and in more recent years, on the international market.
DID YOU KNOW… Malbec is a thin-skinned variety that needs ample sun and heat to thrive (LIKE ME!).
Malbec typically produces full-bodied wines with rich fruity flavors of plums, black cherry and blackberry along with floral and spice characteristics such as violets and chocolate.
Argentine Malbec tends to have medium tannin levels and grows best in sunny climates with cold nights and high elevations, like the Mendoza wine region in Argentina where most vineyards reside at incredibly high altitudes (ranging from 1000 meters to as high as 3000 meters above sea level). This altitude allows for high quality wine production in areas that would otherwise be too hot due to their proximity to the equator.
In contrast, the style of Cahors Malbec is often described as more structured, tannic and astringent compared to the more “plush” and fruit-forward Malbecs from Argentina.
ANOTHER “FUN” FACT: The Argentine Malbec grapes and the French Malbec “clones” (genetic variants of the same grape variety) exhibit distinct differences. Argentine Malbec is known for having smaller berries in tighter, smaller clusters (THE GOOD KIND!), which contribute to its deep color and intense fruity flavors. In contrast, the French Malbec clones grown in Cahors tend to have larger berries and looser clusters (MUCH LIKE THE FRENCH PEOPLE).
Malbec represents a quintessential value wine for all you frugal peons (LIKE ME!) who insist on getting your desiccated little meathooks around “free” bottles of zeus juice. LUCKY FOR YOU, Argentine Malbec has maintained its “position” as America's go-to red wine at the $10 “price point” due to its “delicious” quality at a “competitive price.”
The country's economic challenges, such as debt crises and currency devaluations, have made it difficult to increase the prices of their wines (unfortunate for the hardworking producers in the region, but WONDERFUL NEWS for your flimsy little wallet), keeping Argentine Malbecs affordable on the U.S. market.
BUT YOU’RE IN LUCK — because today we didn’t just find Argentine Malbec for you to pour into your IV bags: we’ve also tracked down a value bottle of Cahors for your to try. So without further ado, 4 serviceable Malbecs in the $10-20 range.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2021 Gascon Malbec Mendoza, Argentina / 87 Points / $12
Profile: Blueberry jam, black cherry, strawberry, cedar, licorice, burnt rubber, woodsmoke, mocha
Palate: Dry, medium+ acidity, medium tannin, medium+ body, medium finish
A good wine, especially for the price point, showing pronounced blue, black and red fruit (#tastetherainbow). The wine has a slight rubbery, smoky character that I’m not too “fond of,” but in my HUMBLE opinion, most of you will like this (especially if you like fruit forward wines). For a better time, pair with a horror movie and an empty stomach.
87 points.
2022 Cuma Winemaker’s Selection Malbec, Argentina / 87+ Points / $12
Profile: Blueberry, blackberry, violet, vanilla, ash
Palate: Dry, medium acidity, medium+ tannin, medium+ body, medium finish
This bargain banger comes through with pronounced flavors of organic dark fruit, violets and a little spice. The balance could be better, in spite of being 13.5% abv, this one reads a little hot. It’s youthful and will probably soften up over the next couple of years, but at this price point, just pair it with some spicy food and BE DONE WITH IT.
87+ points.
2020 Gouleyant Malbec, Cahors, France / 90+ Points / $14
Profile: Black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, cranberry, licorice, cumin seed (THE GOOD KIND), earth, wet rock, chocolate, black pepper
Palate: Dry, high acidity, high tannin, medium+ body, medium finish
A very well-balanced (UNLIKE MY BRAIN CHEMISTRY) and structured wine with a slightly “rustic” feel, that really overdelivers at this nearly pedestrian price point.
If we were you, we’d pair this with an enormous plate of Indian Food.
90+ points.
2019 Marcello Pelleriti Signature Malbec, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina / 93 Points / $18
Profile: Blackberry, blueberry, tar, black pepper, violets, orange peel, licorice, wet stone, tin pan (THE GOOD KIND!), dark chocolate
Palate: Dry, medium+ acidity, medium+ tannin, full body, long finish
An insanely concentrated, balanced and complex wine for this price point. One of the best under $20 wines we’ve tasted over the course of our long “careers”.
Pair this with any hearty Italian food dish or sip it as a postprandial beverage - it’ll be a GOOD TIME either way!
Note that James Suckling rated this wine 94 points and we almost agree with “generous James”!
WONDERFUL.
93 points.
Malbec, Malbec, Malbec. You get it.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
"Meemaw" loves "quotation" marks!
It would be helpful if you could include info about where the wines are sold, especially if any national chains sell them.