Tannic Panic! Issue #47: Orange You Glad You Gave Skin-Contact Wine A Try?
Look out rosé, orange wine’s coming for your title of #1 patio pounder.
What up, grape gang? GUEST POST ALERT!
As the saying goes, when the cat’s away, Victoria will drink her weight in orange wine. That’s right — since Isaac and Zach decided to have rich, interesting lives this past weekend, I will once again be bombarding y’alls inboxes with basic pop culture gifs and questionable takes.
I decided to plunge face-first into orange wine this week because I've always been curious about it—especially since it seems to be giving our favorite poolside beverage, rosé, a run for its money.
So prepare to be seriously disturbed as we skip merrily through the wacky world of orange wine!
WHAT IS ORANGE WINE?
Simply put, orange wine is… well, wine that is orange. SHOCKER!
But orange wine AKA skin-contact wine AKA amber wine is often dismissed as the black sheep of the wine world — too funky, too out-there, TOO ORANGE. But hey, we like our wine like we like our personalities — bold, complex, and in multiples.
DID YOU KNOW… The history of orange wine dates back thousands of years, with roots tracing to the Caucasus region — the birthplace of winemaking. Ancient winemakers in this region utilized clay vessels called qvevri to ferment and store their wines, often leaving the grape skins in contact with the juice for extended periods. This technique was passed down through generations and eventually spread to other winemaking regions across Europe and beyond.
Orange wine has historically been produced in regions known for their cool climates and indigenous grape varieties. In Georgia, for example, winemakers have been crafting amber wines using native grape varieties like Rkatsiteli and Kisi for centuries. Similarly, in northeastern Italy, the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region is renowned for its production of orange wines made from grapes such as Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Pinot Grigio.
In terms of aroma, orange wine can offer a complex profile, featuring notes of ripe apricots, honeyed peaches, dried flowers, and nuances of citrus zest. On the palate, orange wine often features a variety of flavors, including the refreshing acidity of citrus fruits, the subtle sweetness of ripe stone fruits, notes of dried fruits like figs and apricots, and hints of nuts such as almonds and hazelnuts. WHO KNEW?
HOW IS ORANGE WINE MADE?
The process begins with the careful selection of white grape varieties, chosen for their unique characteristics and suitability for skin contact fermentation (LIKE ME! — did I do that right??). These grapes are harvested at optimal ripeness, ensuring a balance of sugars, acidity, and flavor compounds that will contribute to the final product.
Once harvested, the grapes are gently crushed, releasing their precious juices and exposing the skins to the luscious nectar within. Unlike traditional white winemaking methods, where the zeus juice is promptly separated from the skins, orange winemakers embrace a more laissez-faire approach, allowing the grape skins to remain in contact with the juice throughout the fermentation process.
This extended maceration period is “where the magic happens.” As the grape skins mingle with the juice, they impart a wealth of flavors, aromas, and even some tannins to the developing wine, resulting in its distinctive amber hue and complex character. The duration of skin contact can vary depending on the winemaker's preferences, ranging from days to months, with each passing moment adding depth and complexity to the wine.
Once fermentation is complete and the desired level of extraction has been achieved, the wine is gently (dare I say, tenderly?) pressed to separate the liquid from the spent grape skins. From here, it undergoes a period of aging, during which it may be aged in various vessels such as oak barrels, clay amphorae, or stainless steel tanks. This maturation process allows the wine to evolve, harmonize, and develop its “unique” personality over time.
TL;DR – Orange wine is made the way is rosé is made, but instead of using black grape varieties (which are used to make red wine), it uses white grape varieties (which, AGAINST ALL ODDS, are used to make white wine).
But enough faffing about, let’s get into the reviews! Unlike Zach and Isaac, who possess perfectly calibrated palates, I get by with vibes and a little help from my friends (literally — shoutout to Tannic Panic subscribers Jessica and Feather who helped me gulp down 5 bottles of the orange stuff for this post).
So rather than use the 100-point rating system (which Isaac and Zach have admitted is wack af anyway), I’ll be using the far more intellectually rigorous “smiley face scale.”
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF HOW WE FELT ABOUT THEM):
Marani Rkatsiteli Qvevri Amber / $21
Aroma: Soft hints of petrol mingle with faint decaying floral notes.
Taste: The wine feels flat and flabby on the palate, with mineral undertones and unripe sour fruit flavors.
Pair it with the year it was harvested – 2020 – and revel in the disappointment.
Field Recordings SKINS Orange Wine / $20
Aromas: Notes of persimmon and peony are met with a cold, wintry blast.
Taste: The initial citrusy burst is promising, but as it warms up, the flavors fade faster than your summer tan. It's like a one-night stand – exhilarating at first, but the thrill doesn't last.
Pair it with a sweet pastry to compensate for its shortcomings, but don't expect it to steal the show.
Sun Goddess Pinot Grigio Ramato Orange Wine By Mary J Blige, 2021 / $16
Aromas: Subtle scents of unripe banana and wood tarnish with a hint of mustiness.
Taste: Stewed fruit flavors with a touch of astringency, improving slightly over time.
Pair it with a slice of cranberry bread or your favorite movie snacks (popcorn and Sour Patch kids anyone?).
Armani Orange From The Basement /$20
Aromas: Flint and old dried orange peel.
Taste: On the palate, it's surprisingly reminiscent of a rosé, with flavors of cantaloupe and peach stealing the spotlight.
Pair it with a hard cheese plate for a grand old time.
Biokult Naken Orange Wine / $19
Aromas: Vibrant notes of lychee and kombucha with a hint of tapioca balls.
Taste: The taste is a harmonious blend of sweetness and dryness, with elderflower and golden cherry flavors taking center stage. It's the Goldilocks of wines – just right.
Pair it with a light, flavorful dish like pesto pasta or risotto for a match made in culinary heaven.
Paleokerisio Semi-Sparkling Orange Wine / $17
Aromas: Green apple and apple blossom with a touch of kombucha sour funk.
Taste: On the palate, it's like a party in your mouth, with flavors reminiscent of dry cider and a hint of cinnamon spice.
Pair it with grilled vegetable skewers for a delightful culinary experience. Cheers to that!
Wow! Orange wines. Mixed bag (like all styles) but there was such a spectrum of flavors and styles that there really is no way to sum it all up in one way.
If you thought you hated them, I can’t suggest strongly enough that you do your own tasting. You’ll be shocked — SHOCKED I SAY — by just how different they can be.
And if you already loved orange wine, that’s great! But be honest — some of them are borderline undrinkable.
Can’t win 'em all. BUT YOU CAN WINE ‘EM ALL.
Orange wine. Orange wine. Orange wine.
All my (orange) love,
Victoria
Loved this line: "Pair it with the year it was harvested – 2020 – and revel in the disappointment." LOL