Tannic Panic! Issue #49: Tannat or Not Tannat
Tannic Panic! Issue #49: Tannat or Not Tannat
Tannat is more than just an unwatchable Christopher Nolan movie
AS YOU ALL KNOW, April 14th was national Tannat day (why didn’t we get Monday off?🧐) so it goes without saying that we were just jumping out of our everloving Jimmies to wrap our trembling meat hooks around a few bottles of “the good stuff.”
We wouldn’t be living up to our unrealistically wholesome name here at “Tannic Panic!” were we not to “enjoy” some unrealistically tannic wines — and Tannat, DEER WINOS, is one of the world’s most tannic (and underrated) varietals.
DID YOU KNOW… Tannat has been touted by “experts” as one of the "healthiest" red wine grapes, thanks to its very high concentrations of a class of polyphenols called oligomeric procyanidins (OPCs), which may or may not have protective effects against cardiovascular disease.
Tannat the Grape
Tannat is a robust and distinctive (LIKE ME!) red wine grape variety that originated in the Madiran region of southwest France. It is known for producing deeply colored, full-bodied wines with high tannin levels, high acidity and complex flavors.
Tannat wines often exhibit aromas and flavors of black fruit like blackberry, black currant, and plum, along with notes of spice, smoke, licorice, and tobacco.
The high tannin content gives Tannat wines a firm, structured mouthfeel that can be softened through aging in oak barrels or by blending with other grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Cabernet Franc.
While Tannat originated in France, it has found great success in the humble South American nation of Uruguay, where it is now the country's most widely planted red grape variety, much akin to Malbec’s pilgrimage from France to Argentina.
Tannat is also grown in smaller quantities in other regions like Argentina and the United States.
Madiran AOC
In the Madiran AOC in southwestern France, Tannat is the primary grape variety used. Madiran appellation laws stipulate that Tannat can be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc, though producers have recently begun receiving notable press for their 100% Tannat Madiran wines.
Similar to our good friend “Bordeaux” (REMEMBER HER?) the Madiran region has a diverse array of soils, ranging from clay and limestone to gravel-rich sites, which contributes to the complexity of the wines. The hilly, elevated landscape, with its proximity to the Pyrenees mountains, also plays a crucial role in shaping the distinct character of the Madiran red wines.
Madiran experiences a continental climate, with cold, wet winters and warm, dry summers, but the region's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean brings a touch of “maritime influence,” providing rainfall and moderating influences during the growing season.
This unique blend of climatic conditions is perfectly suited for the Tannat grape, which is a late-ripening variety (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH) and therefore benefits from a longer growing season (ALSO LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH). The Madiran experiences a high diurnal temperature range, with warm days and cool nighttime temperatures, contributing to the development of intense color, structure, and high acidity in the Tannat grapes.
Pilgrimage from France to Uruguay
Tannat continues to be grown in the Basque country of France, most notably in the small, but prestigious appellation of Irouléguy (pronounced how it’s spelled), along the Spanish border.
In 1870, Basque immigrants “fled” with their “beloved” Tannat “grapes” to “the” humble South American oasis of Uruguay, where it has adapted extremely well (UNLIKE TODAY’S YOUTH).
Tannat has become the “national red grape” varietal of Uruguay (as the old saying goes), accounting for approximately one third of all wine produced in the country. Today, more Tannat is grown in Uruguay than in the grape's mother country of “France.” How neat is that??!!
Uruguayan Tannats tend to have “smoother tannins” and more pronounced fruit flavors compared to their French counterparts, which are often more highly tannic, structured and high in acidity, making them quintessential “gastronomic wines.”
Cool beans! We tried 4 bottles (2 from Madiran and 2 from Uruguay) and they were quite varied in their expression, but the WONDERFUL news is that the cheaper bottle from each region actually proved to be significantly better than their more costly “brothers in arms.”
Let’s dive into the juice…
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2018 Domaine Du Moulié Tannat, Madiran, France / 90+ Points /$16
Profile: Blueberry, blackberry, plum, smashed roses, licorice, warming spice
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium acidity, full body, medium+ finish
Silky smooth, well-balanced wine with nice layers to it and a decently long finish. Showed ripe dark fruit character, as well as some floral and spice notes. Strongly recommend this wine, this was an excellent value for the price and a great entry level Madiran Tannat.
90+ Points.
2019 Garzon Tannat Reserva, Uruguay / 92 Points / $16
Profile: Blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, cedar, black plum, black pepper, licorice, violets, hot asphalt, dark chocolate
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, medium finish
This puppy comes through with vibrant blackberry and currant flavors, violets, as well as some spice and chocolate notes. Great structure and a nice finish that lingers until your next sip.
This 100% Tannat from Garzon is incredible value. It is widely available across the U.S. (often I see this at grocery stores as well as specialty wine stores as the only Uruguayan offering).
92 points.
2018 Chateau Bouscassé, Madiran, France / 89 Points / $24
Profile: Blackcurrant, raspberry, tart plum, licorice, cumin seed, tar, dark chocolate, cigar ash, crushed rocks
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, full body, medium finish
Blend: 60% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Another 2018 bottle from Madiran — this wine showed red and black fruit notes with some tart plum and interesting spice notes. It also showed a bit of cigar ash (YUM!)
This wine was not bad by any means, but at $24, you can probably do better (SEE ABOVE).
89 points.
[Note: currently available for $19 on wine.com]
2020 Pisano RPF Tannat, Uruguay / 82 Points / $24
Profile: Black cherry, mocha, tobacco, cigar ash
Palate: Dry, medium+ tannins, high acid, full body, short finish
A little harsh on the acid and noticeably high alcohol sent this wine out of balance. It lacks complexity and doesn’t really get you excited for that next sip. This is the middle tier Tannat from Pisano that you can get at Total Wine (seemed prudent to go middle of the road for this particular tasting), but there is a lower end and higher end offering which we’ll review in the future. Possible better value can be found from one of those, but this one is a definite pass.
For the price we can’t in good conscience recommend this wine.
82 points.
If you like a good tannic wine and are not well versed in Tannat, you must — MUST, I SAY — fill up the proverbial shopping cart with a few dozen bottles next time you’re at the store. We strongly recommend trying both a Uruguayan example and a Madiran, because they are quite different and both can offer really good value.
Want to know where to find the better value of the bunch? Look up.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach