The humble Cabernet Franc grape is one of the parent varieties (AKA “Papa”) of Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Sauvignon Blanc (AKA “Mommy”) — and let’s be honest, they probably met in the Loire.
But we can save their love story for another time.
Cabernet Franc tends to be lighter in body and color than Cabernet Sauvignon, with aromas and flavors of bramble fruits, currants and plums, as well as floral and herbaceous notes (THE GOOD KIND!).
It’s an early ripening variety that thrives in cooler climates, making it well-suited for regions like the “esteemed” Loire Valley in France. While the Loire Valley is the iconic Old World producer of single-varietal Cabernet Franc, this under appreciated grape also found “great success” in other regions of “mother earth.”
In Bordeaux, it is a major blending component (along with merlot) in wines from Right Bank appellations like Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, adding floral notes, acidity, and structure.
In the “New World,” Cabernet Franc has gained a foothold in several regions, particularly in the United States, where it has found success in California, Washington, and the Finger Lakes region of New York. In these places it is often bottled as a single-varietal wine or used as a blending component in “Bordeaux-style” blends.
The Loire Valley
Today’s bottle reviews are focused on the Loire Valley, which is renowned as the “spiritual home” of Cabernet Franc, where it has been cultivated for over seven centuries. The unique terroir and climatic conditions of the Loire Valley play a pivotal role in shaping the distinctive styles of Cabernet Franc wines produced here.
DID YOU KNOW… Cabernet Franc was brought to the Loire Valley by a Cardinal (NOT THE BIRD, MOM) who had it planted at the Abbey of Bourgueil in the 17th century. Neato!
Chinon
Chinon, located in the Touraine area of the Loire Valley, is known for producing Cabernet Franc wines with bright red fruit flavors, violets, and a pronounced green pepper character. Cool nights and warm days allow the grapes to retain their natural acidity and develop vibrant flavors.
Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
The appellations of Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (situated near Chinon in Touraine) benefit from slightly warmer microclimates (LIKE ME!) and more clay-rich soils. These factors result in fuller-bodied, meatier styles of Cabernet Franc with dense fruit flavors and a velvety texture. The wines exhibit a richer character while maintaining the grape's signature herbaceous notes.
Saumur-Champigny
Saumur-Champigny, a dynamic appellation just west of Chinon and Bourgueil in the Anjou-Saumur area of the Loire Valley, produces rich, pure expressions of Cabernet Franc with complexity and vibrant fruit flavors. The combination of the region's cool climate, which preserves acidity, and the diverse soil types, including limestone and “tuffeau” (a porous limestone), allegedly contributes to the wines' smoky perfumes and fine tannic structure.
The Influence of the Loire Valley's Cool Climate
The cooler climate of the Loire Valley allows Cabernet Franc to retain its natural acidity and produce lighter, more refreshing styles. These wines typically exhibit bright red fruit flavors, floral notes such as violets, and herbaceous notes like green pepper, with moderate alcohol levels and tannins. The Loire Valley's Cabernet Franc wines are often meant for early consumption and pair exceptionally well with lighter fare, making them versatile and food-friendly companions.
With improved viticultural practices and the warmer vintages that accompany our favorite new party guest (climate change 🌈), many producers in the Loire Valley are now crafting richer, more concentrated styles of Cabernet Franc that can age for a decade or more. These wines exhibit deeper color, riper fruit flavors, smoky notes, and firmer tannins, often with some oak influence. They can develop complex aromas and flavors with bottle age, making them suitable for cellaring and pairing with bolder, heartier dishes.
Profile: Baked strawberry, black plum, raspberry, black pepper, violets, band aid, barnyard
Palate: Dry, medium acid, medium+ tannins, medium body, long finish
This wine featured very ripe fruits (14.5% ABV), with less pronounced herbaceous notes and some “funky” barnyard notes that keep you on your toes.
Overall, a well made wine, but this doesn’t have the “Cabernet Franc typicity” that we would have expected. The profile on this wine is more reminiscent of a Southern Rhone blend than a Loire Cabernet Franc in our “humble opinion”.
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, medium+ tannin, medium body, medium+ finish
This Saumur Champigny almost smells like a perfume. It’s aromatically beautiful, very smooth and nicely balanced, easy drinking, but slightly lacking in concentration and complexity (LIKE ME!).
Profile: Potpourri, violet, ripe black raspberry compote, berry yogurt, green pepper
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium tannin, medium+ body, long finish
Really well balanced with a beautiful and lively aromatic profile. Lots of dried flowers and ripe berry fruit on the nose, with a bit of green pepper character to add depth. Great find at $17.
Profile: Blackberry bush, black currant, chocolate, cigar ash, decaying violet, black olive, tomato leaf, fennel seed, forest floor
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium+ tannin, medium+ body, medium+ finish
Much earthier and more vegetal than the others, with some ash and floral notes accompanying the blackberry. Really interesting wine. Could be divisive; if you don’t like vegetal notes in your wine, you may want to pass on the 2021 Matire de Chai Chinon.
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium+ tannins, medium body, long finish
This is a very complex and “classic” expression of Cabernet Franc from Chinon with vibrant red and black fruits, mixed with floral and herbaceous notes.
Profile: Black cherry, blackberry pie, violet, graphite, honey
Palate: Dry, high acid, high tannin, medium+ body, medium finish
Very floral, attractive nose with dark berry fruit and honeyed notes. Pretty well balanced (just a hair on the acidic side) with a decently long finish, but lacks complexity.
All in all a nice wine, but you can do better for the price.
88+ points.
As you can see, there are some common threads between these wines, but don’t let that fool you into thinking that they tasted the same. In fact, some of these bottles were night and day (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH).
That’s great news for you, because even if you are not familiar with Cab Franc of the Loire, it means that there’s probably a style you’ll like in there somewhere. All you need to do is go out there and try some.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
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Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil benefit from slightly warmer microclimates - LIKE ME! That gave me a giggle...as I nodded in absolute agreement. Lovely post on probably my favourite red/black grape variety!
Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil benefit from slightly warmer microclimates - LIKE ME! That gave me a giggle...as I nodded in absolute agreement. Lovely post on probably my favourite red/black grape variety!
Quote of the day: "slightly lacking in concentration and complexity (LIKE ME!)"