Tannic Panic! Issue #55: Right Bank Bangers
Sipping our way through some absolute fire from Bordeaux's under appreciated Right Bank
What’s crackinin ya filthy winos?
Today we’re indulging our post-Memorial Day palates by paying tribute to the “Right Bank” of Bordeaux, a haven for Merlot lovers (THE GOOD KIND), producing rich red wines with velvety textures and “approachable” tannins.
The Right Bank of Bordeaux is renowned for its Merlot-dominant red wines, which are typically more “fruit-forward,” plush, and approachable in their youth (LIKE ME!) compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines of the Left Bank.
DID YOU KNOW… The Right Bank of Bordeaux, particularly the “prestigious appellations” of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, are renowned for their unique soil composition known as "crasse de fer" or "iron pan." This clay subsoil is rich in iron oxide, which ALLEGEDLY gives the wines a distinctive minerality that sets them apart from the Left Bank wines.
The Right Bank
The Right Bank of Bordeaux is all about them reds, with Merlot being the dominant grape variety, typically comprising over 60% of the blend. Merlot from this region is prized for producing plush, velvety wines with ripe fruit flavors of plum, blackberry, and black cherry. Cabernet Franc plays an important supporting role, adding structure, acidity, and herbaceous notes, contributing flavors of red and black currants, bell pepper, and violet aromas. Cabernet Sauvignon, while not as widely planted, is still used in small amounts, adding depth, concentration, and firm tannins to the wines.
It’s worth noting that other varieties are used on the Right Bank (e.g. Petit Verdot, Malbec), but the vast majority of wines are dominated by the aforementioned squad. #ganggang
The “terroir” of the Right Bank is characterized by clay and limestone soils, which retain ample moisture and contribute to the plush texture and rich fruit flavors of the wines. The warm microclimate, influenced by the proximity to the Gironde Estuary, allows Merlot to ripen fully, resulting in wines with ripe tannins and lush fruit profiles.
Meticulous vineyard management and oak aging are also employed to craft exceptional wines.
Saint-Émilion and the Classification System
Saint-Émilion is one of the most prestigious appellations on the Right Bank, known for its exceptional Merlot-based blends. The wines of the Right Bank of Bordeaux weren’t ranked under the 1855 Classification of the Médoc. Instead, 100 years later in 1955, the region developed its own pretentious little classification system, “the Saint-Émilion Classification,” which is reviewed every 10 years by a panel of snobby French “experts” (THE GOOD KIND!)
The classification hierarchy is as follows (descending order):
Premier Grand Cru Classé A: This is the highest level, currently with only 2 estates - Château Pavie and Château Figeac.
Premier Grand Cru Classé B: The second tier, with 12 estates.
Grand Cru Classé: The third level, with 63 estates classified as Grand Cru Classé.
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: Wines labeled as Saint-Emilion Grand Cru are not part of the “official classification” but come from the Saint-Emilion Grand Cru appellation
There are mixed feelings among producers about this system. While it has the advantage of being reviewed regularly, which means that producers who make great wine can potentially make their way onto the map from relative obscurity, it also puts weight on things that some producers consider to be completely irrelevant (like marketing activities and media exposure), factors that are evaluated separately from the actual quality of the wine but contribute significantly to final ranking (blind tasting scores of past 10-15 vintages comprised 50% of total score in 2022 ranking). This means that producers making arguably the best wines may not receive the highest classification if they lose points in other areas.
Three of the four previously top ranked Chateaux (Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Angelus) opted out of the 2022 classification on account of these grievances, which is a bit of a blow to the significance of classification, given that it is meant to award prestige to the best wine producing estates in the region.
Interested in the full rules and criteria from the 2022 classification? Read about them here.
Pomerol and Lalande de Pomerol
Pomerol is another “highly esteemed appellation” on the Right Bank, famous for its opulent and velvety Merlot-dominant wines. In spite of not being included in any official classification system, iconic estates like Chateau Pétrus have contributed to Pomerol's reputation for producing some of the finest and most sought-after Merlot-driven wines on “God’s green earth” and are “regarded” as “highly” as any premier cru in “Bordeaux.”
The appellation is pretty flat compared to the surrounding areas, and the soil composition can vary greatly between small parcels of land adjacent to one another, with fruit from one often showing notably different characteristics from its neighbors. Broadly speaking, the soils to the south west are sandier, while the north and east are predominantly comprised of famously iron-rich clay. The highest quality wines typically come from these iron-rich clay soils.
Lalande de Pomerol, a neighboring appellation to Pomerol, also produces excellent Merlot-based wines at more affordable prices than the “esteemed” Pomerol AOC.
Fronsac
Fronsac is located by the northern bank of the Dordogne, very close to the town of Libourne. It is a historic region that has been around since the time of the ancient Romans, and has long had a reputation for producing great quality Merlot-based wines. The soils of Fronsac are primarily sandstone and limestone, rather than clay, and the vast majority of the plantings are Merlot (WHAT A SURPRISE).
While the top châteaux of St-Emilion and Pomerol can command premium prices (LIKE ME!) the Right Bank offers excellent value for money in the form of its “lesser-known” appellations like Fronsac, Lalande de Pomerol, Montagne Saint-Emilion, Côtes de Castillon, and blah blah etc etc. These regions produce high-quality Merlot-based wines that offer a taste of the “Right Bank style” at more affordable prices for you and your “thirsty” little indigent friends.
This week we’ve reviewed bottles from some of the more famous appellations, as well as a couple from the lesser-knowns for you to enjoy. So let’s dive into the juice!
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2020 Chateau La Chappelle Aux Moines, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru / 88 Points / $26
Profile: Black cherry, black plum, baked strawberry, petrichor, cigar smoke, menthol, iron
Palate: Dry, medium+ tannins, medium+ acidity, medium body, medium finish
A decent wine with characteristic black stone fruit, but this doesn’t have the concentration or length that I would typically expect from a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.
The relatively low price for a wine from this appellation should have been a clue. It is often (THOUGHT NOT ALWAYS!) the case with wines from prestigious appellations - especially those labeled with a noteworthy classification (St. Emilion Grand Cru, in this case) - that a surprisingly low price tag indicates shortcomings in the bottle.
88 points.
2019 Chateau de la Dauphine Fronsac / 92 Points / $30
Profile: Black plum, black cherry, tomato paste, cedar, tobacco, spice, chocolate and a hint of violet
Palate: Dry, high tannin, high acid, long finish, full body
This is a fantastic wine with deep ruby color, a silky mouthfeel, and very concentrated flavors that continue to develop for hours after opening.
Ripe, dark fruit, tomato paste, cedar, wood spice and chocolate with just a hint of violet, adding another layer of dimensionality.
From the beautiful Chateau de la Dauphine in Fronsac, which was named after Maria Josepha of Saxony, Dauphine (or princess) of France, who stayed at the property in the mid-1700’s.
Highly recommend visiting if you are ever in Bordeaux!
92 points.
2020 Chateau Haut-Surget Lalande De Pomerol / 90 Points / $30
Profile: Black cherry, black plum, cedar, woodsmoke, menthol, iron, wet rock, chocolate, hint of green pepper
Palate: Dry, medium+ tannin, high acidity, medium body, long finish
This Lalande De Pomerol has some real complexity with a mix of stone fruits, oak spice, minerality and vegetal notes, but the concentration is slightly lacking for me to “go nuts” about this wine. Nonetheless, with a long finish and plenty of interesting character, this is a solid wine.
90 points.
2020 Chateau De Sales Pomerol / 93+ Points / $35
Profile: Blackberry, black plum, tomato paste, slate, petrichor, forest floor, violets, leather, milk chocolate
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acidity, full body, long finish
Beautiful Pomerol at a bargain price for the category. Lots of ripe black fruits and a savory “tomato paste” note intermingled with floral, earthy and “mineral” notes. Great concentration, structure and complexity.
93+ points.
2020 Chateau Monbousquet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe / 94+ Points / $60
Profile: Blackberry paste, blueberry, black plum, cedar, lavender, espresso, menthol, graphite, wet stone, vanilla, very dark chocolate
Palate: Dry, high tannin, medium+ acidity, full body, long finish
Chateau Monbousquet never disappoints.
An inky dark, concentrated wine with a dense mouth feel, ripe dark fruits, oak spice, floral notes, and that classic Right Bank Bordeaux “stony minerality” (THE GOOD KIND) to balance it out.
This wine is still very tannic with a pronounced “bitter dark chocolate” flavor. This wine should age beautifully for years to come and continue gaining more complexity as the “angry tannins” learn more coping mechanisms through long term behavioral therapy.
94+ points.
WELP whether you're a seasoned Zeus juice guzzler or just someone who likes to sip and pretend to know what "tannins" are, the Right Bank of Bordeaux unquestionably has something for you.
And as you stick your sensitive little nose into that next glass, just remember, you're not just drinking wine — you’re drinking the rich history of an ancient wine region (BELIEVE ME, YOU’LL TASTE IT).
And if all else fails, just nod knowingly and say, "Ah yes, the terroir is quite expressive this time of year."
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach