Tannic Panic! Issue #57: Chenin Blanc Stare
Underrated and bangin value - 9 Chenin Blanc bottle reviews
WHAT’S CRACKININ’ YA MANGY WINOS?
This past weekend was yet another arbitrarily designated wine holiday - “Drink Chenin Blanc Day” - so drink Chenin Blanc we did.
We’ve got reviews of 9 wholesome bottles for yous today (MOSTLY THE GOOD KIND), representing a range of profiles and styles from South Africa and Vouvray. We even snuck in a widely available California Chenin for you, in case the other options don’t blow your skirt up. Neato!
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is a great source of value, and for a lot of us “US-based folks,” it flies a little under the radar. A variety of interesting examples can be found in the $10-20 range, and the grape is so versatile that it gives today’s youth a run for their money.
It originated in the Loire Valley of France, with plantings likely dating all the way back to the 9th century.
Chenin Blanc is known for its high acidity, which contributes to its ability to produce a wide range of wine styles, from dry and crisp to lusciously sweet (LIKE ME!). Chenin Blanc wines often exhibit flavors of green apple, tropical fruits, quince, chamomile, ginger, honey, hay and “wet wool” (THE GOOD KIND!), which vary depending on the winemaking style and region.
The two most prominent regions for Chenin Blanc production are the Loire Valley in France, and South Africa.
South Africa
In South Africa, Chenin Blanc is often lovingly referred to as "Steen,” a breathtakingly beautiful name that unquestionably enhances the sensuous appeal of this humble white wine. South African “Steen” tends to be more fruit-forward, showcasing flavors of pineapple, guava, and peach, while maintaining the variety's signature high acidity. The Western Cape region, particularly areas like Paarl with granite-based soils, is renowned for producing high-quality Chenin Blanc wines.
South Africia also boasts some of the oldest Chenin Blanc vineyards in the world, yielding concentrated wines with complex stone fruit, honey, and spice flavors from these so-called “old vines”. While less common than in the Loire Valley, some producers make off-dry and sweet Chenin Blancs, highlighting ripe fruit and honeyed characteristics.
Loire Valley
The Loire Valley is the historical homeland of Chenin Blanc and remains closely associated with the variety. The region produces a diverse range of Chenin Blanc wines, from dry and mineral styles in appellations like Savennières, to off-dry and sweet wines in areas like Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon, and Quarts de Chaume. The Loire Valley's terroir, with its limestone, schist, sand, and clay soils, imparts distinct characteristics to the wines.
Chenin Blanc from Vouvray (featured in today’s post) “shines” in various styles (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH), from dry to off-dry and sweet. Most Chenin Blanc wines from the Loire Valley are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve the grape's fresh, “fruity character” and bright acidity, but some producers “experiment” with oak aging to add complexity and depth to their Chenin Blancs. This is not uncommon with dry styles of Vouvray, and results in rich, complex expressions with high acidity, green apple, quince, and mineral notes, capable of aging well.
The region's off-dry and sweet Chenin Blancs, including botrytis-affected (noble rot) wines, exhibit flavors of honey, apricot, and pear, balanced by refreshing acidity. Vouvray also produces sparkling Chenin Blanc using the traditional method, showcasing crisp acidity, fine bubbles, and flavors of green apple, citrus, and toast.
DID YOU KNOW… South Africa is the largest producer of Chenin Blanc globally, with over 50% of the world's plantings.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
2023 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier White Blend / 90+ Points / $11
Profile: Ripe peach, crushed shells, honeysuckle, melon, papaya, honeycomb
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, light body, long finish
Blend: 80% Chenin Blanc, 20% Viognier
The Chenin Blanc is sourced from Clarksburg, in the Sacramento River Delta. The Viognier is from Lodi.
Really impressive wine at this price point. Ripe tropical fruit, bright acidity and a long finish. Layered aromatics of honeyed fruit, flowers and honeycomb. All around a good time.
90+ points.
2018 Nederburg The Winemasters Chenin Blanc, Western Cape South Africa / 88 Points / $11
Profile: Apple, pineapple, lime, honey, melon, chamomile, hay, crushed shells
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium finish
This is a well made crisp white wine with some concentration from the tropical fruit, along with quintessential hay notes and “sea shell” essences (THE GOOD KIND!).
2023 Spier Chenin Blanc, South Africa / 88 Points / $11
Profile: Crushed shells, lanolin, green apple, pear, lychee
Palate: Off dry, medium+ acid, medium body, long finish
Nice, easy drinking Chenin with strong crushed shells not, green fruit and a hint of lychee. Spier also makes some nice Pinotage, which we’ve reviewed in this previous post.
88 points.
2023 KWV Chenin Blanc South Africa / 90 Points / $12
Profile: Green apple, lemon, melon, wet wool, crushed shells, white flowers, honey
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium finish
Very crisp and refreshing Chenin with vibrant fruit balanced by high acidity, along with floral notes, honey and the quintessential “wet wool” note we all “look for” in Chenin Blanc wines (#powerofsuggestion). Good value white wine if you can find it (looks like it is available for cheaper than we got it from a couple sellers on Wine-Searcher).
If you’re interested in more from this producer, check out some of our past reviews including a Cab, a Cape Blend, and a Moscato.
90 points.
2023 Les Parcelles Vouvray Chenin Blanc / 88 points / $12
Profile: Green apple, pear, flint, almond, baby wipe
Palate: Medium dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
Some residual sugar on this one. Not our favorite style, but nice for what it is.
Pair good with cracker
❌ 2023 Reserve du Naufraget Vouvray / 83 Points / $14
Profile: Peach, green apple, honey, lemon, chamomile
Palate: Medium dry, medium acid, medium body, short finish
This wine was off balance with not enough acidity to support the level of sweetness. The finish was also a bit short. You can find a million bajillion better values than this at the same price. Nau Fraget about this wine (you’ll thank us later).
2022 Famille Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc / 88 Points / $17
Profile: Green apple, lime, white peach, gardenia, dandelion, wet stone
Palate: Dry, medium acid, medium body, long finish
Not bad, but could do with a little more acidity to elevate the flavors. We reviewed a great Chinon from this producer a couple of weeks back (NOTE: CHINON IS NOT THE SAME THING AS CHENIN, THOUGH CONFUSINGLY ALSO FROM THE LOIRE). If you missed it, check it out via the link below!
2021 J. Moreau & Fils Vouvray / 87 Points / $18
Profile: Peach, lemon, green apple, honey, white flowers, honey, chamomile
Palate: Off dry, high acid, medium body, medium finish
Well made off-dry style of Vouvray with sour green apple, stone fruits, honey, citrus, and floral notes. The acidity is vibrant and keeps the sweetness “in check.” That being said, this is a bit lacking in complexity to score it higher.
2023 Blaawklippen Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa / 90 Points / $18
Profile: Lemon, green apple, pear, mango, pineapple, dandelion, honeysuckle, hay, lanolin
Palate: Dry, medium+ acid, full body, light body, long finish
Delicate and well balanced with some complexity and a nice texture to the mouthfeel. Blaaaw blaaaw blaaw, you get it.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
Preaching to the choir...and I am the choir! You nailed the SA Chenin vibes...I so often see people assume that the same Loire tasting notes apply to SA...and they're so different. Much like Savennieres is so different to Vouvray. But one thing's for sure...there's nothing like Chenin's ridiculous acidity 😂! It's always lovely seeing SA wines being showcased 🇿🇦🍷❤️!