When Trump’s proposed tariffs on imported goods take effect, we may not know what the ultimate impact on our nation’s thirsty degenerates will be, but we do know this: it will inevitably lead to an increase in the cost of imported wines.
But when we think of “domestic” wines, for a lot of us there’s just a few states that come to mind: California, Washington, Oregon… perhaps New York if you’re in the right part of the country to find it. But believe it or not, almost every US state produces wine, and though distribution is highly limited for most of them, you can find some pretty cool stuff if you know where to look.
So why is it so hard to find wine from the “other” states?
Wine distribution in the United States is constrained by individual state laws and the 3-tier system – a post-Prohibition framework that requires wine to pass through 1) producers, 2) distributors and then 3) retailers, before finally landing in your severely dehydrated gullets. This creates several limitations including restricted direct sales to consumers, limited consumer choice within domestic markets and increased costs as each tier takes their cut of the profits. These factors result in a fragmented wine market, and impose major hurdles on the ability of wineries to expand their “reach” across state lines.
While DTC sales are allowed across state lines in some states, it is highly restricted in others, and even still, the consumer would have to have tasted wines from that out of state winery to know it exists in the first place. And retailers that carry a wide selection of local wines are largely forbidden from selling wines to out-of-state consumers, which means that the three-tier system reigns supreme in deciding what wines to make available to consumers from states they do not reside in. They usually land at “little to none.”
The argument made by distributors is that it doesn’t make sense for them to supply wines for which there is little or no demand. Of course, you can’t really generate demand for a product that no one knows exists or has access to. So why not let the intrepid little wine shop owners of yore (and nigh) make their own choices about what out of state wines to stock?
Well, with money being made at each level of the system, the big players that operate within it have incentive to keep it in place. Plus, outside of the drinkypoo industry, the workings of the three-tier system are not common knowledge, so there isn’t really a sense of public outrage at its perpetuation.
If we’re being honest with ourselves, though, we’re long overdue to really question why this Jurassic era system hasn’t been updated, especially when Old World countries have built systems that allow their citizens to enjoy wines from every corner of their land.
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We’ve covered some wines from Isaac’s “home” state of “Texas” before, but this week Isaac is in Arizona and Zach permanently resides in the pungent “Garden State” of New Jersey, so we’ve decided to take advantage and test out a couple of bottles from our current locales.
Profile: Canned pineapple, canned peaches, ripe apple, honey, flint Palate: Medium sweet, medium+ acid, medium concentration, short finish
Ah yes, a non-vintage blend of unspecified grapes. Always a good sign! This was the only available “local” NJ wine I would find at my local dispensary. They also sell the “Jersey Red” “version” of this wine which was no longer on the store shelf (maybe a winner?!). In any case, this particular wine was not enjoyable for my humble palate. The aromas were quite good with ample ripe tropical fruit notes like canned pineapple and canned peaches, along with a honeyed character and flinty minerality. At 9% ABV, the fermentation of this wine was likely stopped early to retain a healthy dose of residual sugar. The acidity was high enough that the winemakers probably could have fermented this to dryness or near dryness and made a much better crisp, “clean” relatively high acid white wine. But perhaps “New Jersey’s sweet toothed youth” enjoy this cloying style more than my severely aged palate. Pair with extremely low expectations, a dull mind and a Summer road trip to the “Jersey Shore.”
Despite a high local wine consumption rate (I wonder why!), less than 3% of the wine consumed in New Jersey is produced within the state, indicating a promising opportunity for the great state of New Jersey to experience “personal growth” in its distribution of domestic wines to thirsty New Jersians. Final *positive* note: I did once taste a decent dry NJ “Pinot Grigio” at a local Italian Restaurant, so it’s fair to say this bottle might not be the most “representative” sample of what the NJ “wine scene” has to offer.
Profile: Cantaloupe, strawberry lemonade, cream soda, wet stone Palate: Dry, high as F**K acid, light body, med+ finish
This rosé, made from Barbera grapes grown in the high desert of Walnut Grove, Arizona, will make your mouth pucker. The wine is actually sour to the taste, so you have to be a fan of that profile (I am) – but it is very intensely sour. That said, it has some really nice flavors and is refreshing, almost like a sharp strawberry lemonade that didn’t use too much water in the blend. It’s a solid natural wine with a strong “voice,” if you will. This is a rare case where I think a little additional residual sugar (just enough to kick it out the bone dry zone) could have lifted the flavor profile up. Honestly though, I really liked this wine, and were it not for the balance issues, it would have scored quite a bit higher. Cool wine from an up and coming wine state. If you have a chance, definitely give this a try.
To learn more about the wines of Arizona, check out these links:
As avid wine idiots, we always jump at the opportunity to try wine from a region we haven’t explored before, so between the two of us we’ve tasted wines from quite a number of the lesser known wine-producing states – New Jersey, Arizona, Texas, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Missouri, Arkansas, Iowa, Florida, Virginia…the list goes on, and believe it or not, with just a few exceptions (I’m looking at you, Arkansas) the bottles we’ve tasted from these states have really surprised us, in many cases proving to be of great quality. The states earlier in their wine-journeys of course have more ground to cover as “experimentation” reveals what varieties and vineyard practices yield the best final product. But that’s all the more reason to support what they are doing and try to give these wines more exposure. So… wherever you are, go out and try some of the local offerings – and if you live in a more “obscure” wine producing state, all the more reason to give it a shot.
Glug glug.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
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I hear you! Every time I'm in the US, I'm shocked by the selection (or lack thereof) that's sold by supermarkets and liquor stores. Last year when I was in Tennessee and Georgia, I managed to find some local wines that were quite good (and others that were quite bad). But I always enjoy the mission!
Just bought my first NJ wine a few weeks ago, though haven't opened it yet. A dry 100% Cab Franc. Seeing as how well that grows in the FLX area, I have high hopes for it being more than decent. Also bought my first New Mexico wine (Petite Sirah) and Arizona (Mourvedre). And lastly, I reached out to an Alaskan winery but they couldn't ship to me, boooo. Though I did find ONE from that state that could, so that shit's happening in the new year!
I hear you! Every time I'm in the US, I'm shocked by the selection (or lack thereof) that's sold by supermarkets and liquor stores. Last year when I was in Tennessee and Georgia, I managed to find some local wines that were quite good (and others that were quite bad). But I always enjoy the mission!
Just bought my first NJ wine a few weeks ago, though haven't opened it yet. A dry 100% Cab Franc. Seeing as how well that grows in the FLX area, I have high hopes for it being more than decent. Also bought my first New Mexico wine (Petite Sirah) and Arizona (Mourvedre). And lastly, I reached out to an Alaskan winery but they couldn't ship to me, boooo. Though I did find ONE from that state that could, so that shit's happening in the new year!