Tannic Panic! Issue #89: Lebanon Calling
Killer red wines from the ancient region everyone's overlooking
Lebanon’s winemaking history is as ancient as the humble Middle Eastern nation itself, with roots stretching back over 7,000 years (LIKE ME!). The Phoenicians, Lebanon’s “seafaring ancestors,” were among the first to spread the wholesome art of viticulture across the Mediterranean, trading their prized wines with the thirsty little inhabitants of Egypt, Greece, and Rome.
The wine industry in Lebanon is unique in how much it has endured; over millennia, the country has seen countless invasions, wars and restrictions, but it has persisted through it all (LIKE MY RESILIENT EGO).
DID YOU KNOW… The Bekaa Valley produces over 90% of Lebanese wine. This “fertile region” has exceptional “terroir” for premium wine production, with over 300 days of “Mr. Golden Sun” per year (remember him?) shining down over high-altitude vineyards between two mountain ranges, with temperatures moderated by warm Mediterranean breezes.
THE ICONIC CHATEAU MUSAR
At the heart of Lebanon’s “modern wine story” is Chateau Musar, which is often considered the “first growth” of Lebanon. It was founded in 1930 by Gaston Hochar at just 20 years old. Inspired by his travels to Bordeaux, Gaston’s vision was to craft wines that reflected Lebanon’s unique terroir while embracing French winemaking traditions (THE GOOD KIND!). But it was his son Serge Hochar who elevated Chateau Musar to global “fame.” Taking over as winemaker in 1959, Serge spent nearly two decades perfecting the winery’s signature red blend—a bold yet elegant combination of the “3 C’s” - Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and Cinsault, with the percentages of each varying considerably from vintage to vintage.
Serge Hochar became a legend not only for his winemaking but for his unyielding commitment to producing wine during Lebanon's darkest days. Even as bombs fell during the Lebanese Civil War (1975–1990), Serge continued to “prioritize making wine” (as one should during dark times), often transporting grapes through dangerous roads to ensure that “production” and “consumption” never stopped. His philosophy was simple: wine is a symbol of life and continuity.
Tragically, Serge passed away in December 2014 while swimming in Mexico during his 75th birthday vacation. His death marked the end of an era for Chateau Musar but left behind a legacy that continues to “inspire winemakers” around the world. Today, Chateau Musar remains a beacon of Lebanese winemaking under the leadership of Serge’s sons, Gaston and Marc Hochar. The wines of Chateau Musar wines are celebrated for their complexity and ability to age gracefully for many decades (LIKE ME!).
WINE AND WAR
Lebanon is unique as a wine region because of how many years of its recent history have been shaped by wars. Wine producers have had to navigate chaotic and dangerous situations, with some vintages being completely transformed because of wartime circumstances. If you are interested in learning more about some of Lebanon’s key Zeus juice “artistes” and how war has influenced production, you have to check out the documentary Wine and War. It does an incredible job of illustrating Lebanon’s tumultuous history and how wine has been at the center of it all.
This Wine Enthusiast article all about Lebanon’s wine scene covers a lot of the same topics discussed in the documentary if you want to read more.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR 100PT RATING SYSTEM WORKS]
2009 Chateau Khoury Symphonie, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon / 91 Points / $23
Profile: Plum, dates, dried flowers, orange peel, tomato leaf, wet stone, black pepper, cardamom, leather, tobacco
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium+ tannin, medium+ body, medium finishBlend of 25% Syrah 25% Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Cabernet Franc 25% Merlot.
Silky smooth, beautiful aromatically – so much wet stone it smells like you’re drinking from a granite cup (THE GOOD KIND!). Lots of dried flowers and orange peel, accompanied by plums, dates and spice, and tertiary notes of leather and tobacco. With all of that going on aromatically, we were expecting a bit more power and persistence on the palate, but it fell slightly short. Still, an absolute joy to drink, and what a hidden gem for under $25. You’d better buy some now because I’m doing my darndest to personally deplete the national stockpile.
Score Breakdown: Balance 38 / Aroma/Flavor 18 / Concentration 14 / Length 11 / Complexity 10 = 91 Points (I)
2011 Chateau Khoury Perseides, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon / 93 points / $32
Profile: Black plum, dried strawberry, dried cherry, dried blueberry, cedar, wet stone, tobacco, leather, black pepper, thyme, orange peel, violets, mocha
Palate: Dry, high acid, high tannin, full body, long finishBlend of 50% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot.
Remarkably concentrated, complex and charismatic red wine for less than half the price of the esteemed Chateau Musar. The profile showcases a good mix of aged Syrah and aged Bordeaux characteristics with a lot of dried black, blue and red fruits, floral notes, minerality and peppery spice…KUDOS to KHOURY!!!
Score Breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 17/ Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 10 = 93 Points (Z)
2017 Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon / 89 Points / $70
Profile: Black plum, red cherry, dried strawberry, licorice, pen ink (VA), mixed spice, mushroom, cigar box, almond paste
Palate: Dry, high acid, high tannin, full body, long finishConcentrated aromas, strong VA hits you off the bat. Tons of bright red fruit, plum, pen ink, and some earthy / mushroom and tobacco notes. A bit spicy on the palate, overall a decent wine, but not a strong vintage from this legendary producer and certainly not worth the money this time around in our extremely humble opinions. We’ve had incredible bottles from older vintages, so the 2017 might be worth a revisit when it’s had some time to mature, but to be honest we’d rather put the money towards trying a different year.
Score Breakdown: Balance 35 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 9 = 89 Points (TP)
If you haven’t ever tried Lebanese wines, the gems we found in both Chateau Khoury offerings from Total Wine are an unbelievably great entry point to the category. We hope you’ll go out and track some down, because if you like complex and structured reds, these are about as good as it gets on value.
Coming up next…
We’re excited to announce that we’re participating in “Wine Conversations,” a collaborative project with a handful of talented Substackian wine writers discussing a range of hot topics in the world of wine.
Keep your eyes peeled for a special release where we dive into the first topic: how to get people more interested in wine.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
I am unlikely to see a bottle of Chateau Musar, or any other Lebanese wine at Dan Murphy's, Australia's biggest liquor store, but you never know.