Tannic Panic! Issue #95: Vermentino Italiano
A shallow dive into one of the top bang-for-buck picks you might be sleeping on.
If you’ve ever found yourself squinting your beady little eyes at a well endowed wine list, sweating over whether to order your nightly Pinot Grigio and risk looking basic, or roll the dice on an obscure varietal that might taste like regret (THE GOOD KIND!), allow me to introduce your new best friend: Vermentino.
This crowd pleaser of a wine is zippy, citrusy, floral, and full of flavor, and the best thing of all – it’s almost always a bargain.
Vermentino is a “rose of many names,” depending upon where it’s planted: Rolle (in Provence), Pigato (Liguria), Malvoisie de Corse (Corsica) – it was even recently determined that a Piemontian favorite “Favorita” is actually genetically identical to Vermentino (WHO KNEW?!).
This week we’re keeping our focus narrowed to Vermentino from Tuscany and Sardinia, and we’ve got some awesome budget picks for you to hurl into your squeaky little shopping carts next time you’re waddling through the Zeus juice aisle.
So, Just Who is This “Vermentino” Feller?
Vermentino is a white grape variety that thrives in Italy’s coastal regions, “soaking up the sea spray,” and spitting it back out into your face like an angry llama basking in the Mediterranean sun. Metaphorically speaking, of course.
So needless to say, most Vermentino grapes are generally living a better life than we are, ultimately producing wines that are bright, fresh, and distinctively “mineral,” often with a bit of salinity. The aromatic profile commonly features notes of citrus, white flowers, apples, pears, peaches, and sometimes even tropical fruit notes, like pineapple and mango in riper examples.
Vermentino produces light to medium-bodied wines characterized by refreshing “crispness” and vibrant acidity. It’s not uncommon for Vermentino to have some bitterness on the finish, often likened to “green almond” or “grapefruit pith.”
DID YOU KNOW: In France (where we aren’t “visiting” today) Vermentino is frequently blended with red grapes like Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah in Provence to make complex and balanced rosé wines, contributing freshness, acidity, and unique aromatic qualities to the final product.
KEY REGIONS THIS WEEK
Sardinia
Sardinia (aka “Sardegna”) is the Vermentino powerhouse of the world, producing around half of all the Vermentino in existence. The island’s warm climate and coastal influence help produce intense and structured expressions of the grape. The best ones come from the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG, where the wines often have a touch of tropical fruit, floral aromas, and a minerally finish that reminds you of a simpler time (LIKE ME!).
Tuscany
Tuscany is mostly known for its red wines, but Vermentino is produced there too and the wines are gaining some traction. The region produces rich, and often fuller bodied wines, sometimes even with a touch of oak to add additional dimensionality.
… AND NOW FOR THE REVIEWS (IN ORDER OF PRICE):
[CLICK HERE FOR A BREAKDOWN OF HOW OUR 100PT RATING SYSTEM WORKS]
2022 Cantina Castiadas Vermentino di Sardegna Praidis / $15
Profile: Lemon, lime, melon, green apple, pineapple, chamomile, crushed rock, oyster shell, flint, chalk, grapefruit rind
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, medium finishA very crisp, aromatic, and above-all else, extremely “mineral-driven” white wine on a backdrop of tart citrus and tropical fruits.
Score Breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 16 / Concentration 14 / Length 13 / Complexity 8 = 88 points
2023 St Giorgio Vermentino Toscana IGT / $15
Profile: Fennel, wet stone, ripe pear and a dash of pineapple, lime rind, steely finish
Palate: Dry, high acid, light body, medium+ finishThis one leads with ripe pear and an interesting sort of herbal fennel character. Crisp with a steely and slightly bitter finish. Less concentrated than the Vecchia, but still flavorful and refreshing, and different from any of the others in the bunch.
Score Breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 13 / Length 14 / Complexity 6 = 85 Points (I)
2023 Vecchia Cantina Vermentino Toscana IGT / $16
Profile: Elderflower, pear, white peach, grapefruit, lemon, white tea, flint, very mineral palate
Palate: Dry, high acidity, light body, long finishThis wine was lively with powerful aromatics and excellent balance. Showing notes of elderflower, pear, white peach, grapefruit, and flint — super smooth, very concentrated flavors and a nice long finish. Crisp and refreshing, packed with flavor. I don’t know what else to say — this wine was a steal and definitely the winner of the bunch for me. I’ll definitely be grabbing a few more of these next time I’m out. Very nice!
Score Breakdown: Balance 38 / Aroma/Flavor 17 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 92 Points (I)
2023 Dolia Vermentino Di Sargena D.O.C. / $16
Profile: Honeysuckle, wet stone, crushed sea shells, chalk, golden apple, white peach, salinity
Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finishSome really nice floral and apple aromatics, complemented by white peach and chalky minerality. A bit of salinity on palate, and a nice smooth finish — not really bitter on aftertaste like some of the others. Refreshing, flavorful, and ready to be drank.
Score Breakdown: Balance 37 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 15 / Length 15 / Complexity 7 = 89 Points (I)
2023 Vento Vermentino Toscana IGT / $17
Profile: Chlorinated pool, green apple, cantaloupe, muted white flowers, citrus rind, crushed sea shells
Palate: Dry, high acid, light body, medium finishThis bottle from a producer I love, Bacci, is a straightforward and easy drinking wine. Aromatics are restrained but it’s still flavorful. Very crisp with a slightly bitter and metallic aftertaste. Refreshing and relatively simple, it’s nothing that will change your life, but nonetheless a nice wine.
Where this wine falls a little short is on concentration, length, and complexity, which is why the score may paint a misleading picture. But don’t let it fool you; this wine went swimmingly with our pasta dinner. I’d gladly take a glass poolside or on the beach any day of the week.
Score Breakdown: Balance 36 / Aroma/Flavor 15 / Concentration 13 / Length 10 / Complexity 6 = 80 Points (I)
Yup. It’s refreshing, it’s food-friendly, and it’s all around a good time. Vermentino™
Plus, it’s still somewhat “under the radar,” which means you get to impress your “friends” by casually dropping a hot, “me like Vermentino” while they scramble to Google what you’re talking about.
So next time you’re browsing the humble wine aisle or perusing a fuzzy little wine list, skip the familiar few and grab a bottle of Vermentino instead.
You’re gonna like the way you look.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach
I was in Sardinia for a month last year (lucky me!) so I drank a lot of Vermentino, and I was surprised by how expensive it all was. So I'm even more surprised that you're able to get such good value bottles all the way in the States! (Then again, we were in Gallura, so only drinking the DOCG good stuff - I guess you pay a premium for that, even locally....)