Tannic Panic! Issue #106: Sip New Zealand - Waiheke Island
Turns out New Zealand makes wine other than Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
Kia ora, you gaggle of flightless winos! After two weeks of gallivanting around New Zealand on his precious little “honeymoon,” Isaac is making his illustrious “return” to the “blog” with an up-close look at the “Land of the Long White Cloud’s” growing wine scene.
Isaac’s love of the New Zealand is well-documented (proof and proof), but while the not-so-newlyweds managed to squeeze in a few days in Central Otago (Queenstown), most of the trip explored regions on the north island: Waiheke Island, Hawke’s Bay, and Martinborough. While we would happily write an entire guidebook on the experience, we’ll rein in our “baser” instincts and spend today’s post on Waiheke Island. But fret not, wee wino – if this post “does numbers” (Victoria wrote that), we’ll release a part two that dives into Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough and Central Otago.
THE LAND OF THE LONG WHITE HAT
… is what New Zealand probably should be called, because it’s “literally” brimming with incredible wine. So much so, in fact, that one might find “oneself” frustratedly scratching their prematurely balding head trying to find “the bad kind” (you know, were one to busy oneself with such a noble “pursuit”).
Maybe it’s less the case in some other parts of the world (our Aussie readers probably have a leg up), but despite the aforementioned overabundance of exceptional zeus juice produced in New Zealand, only a tragically tiny fraction of it makes it to the United States. If you’ve gazed into the abyss of the grocery store wine section, you’ve probably come to know that by and large it comes from Marlborough and is Sauvignon Blanc.
Maybe you’ll find the occasional Pinot poking its fuzzy little head in the door, but still predominantly from Marlborough, with the occasional “cameo” from Central Otago.
That’s all good and well—it’s still great wine—but what makes this so “shocking” is just how many of the country’s regions and additional varieties are completely overlooked, some of which I DARE SAY have the quality to rival NZ Sauv Blanc on the world stage. Martinborough Chardonnay anyone? A spot of Gimblett Gravels Cab? OR HOW’S ABOUT SOME WAIHEKE SYRAH?
If you, like “many others” were unaware of the existence of these regions or their offerings, fear not, because today that’s partially about to change.
WAIHEKE ISLAND
If you ever find yourself traveling to the shaky isles and have a couple of down days in Auckland, do yourself a favor and don’t spend them in the city. Buy a used wetsuit and “swim” to Waiheke island instead. By that I of course mean take the ferry.
Waiheke Island, located just east of Auckland in New Zealand’s “Hauraki Gulf,” thoroughly “enjoys” a warm, maritime climate, ideal for viticulture, “vacationing” and “beach tourism.” The island’s hilly, rugged landscape, covering ~36 square miles, creates a patchwork of microclimates, with vineyards often “strategically perched” on north-facing slopes to maximize exposure to our loyal friend “Mr. Golden Sun” so as to “fully ripen” the humble grape varieties that might otherwise struggle (LIKE ME!). The surrounding ocean moderates temperatures throughout the year, reducing “extreme manic episodes” and providing a “stable environment” for viticulture and “other hedonic outdoor activities.” Rainfall is spread fairly evenly, with the wettest months typically in the “Southern hemispheric winter months” (June, July and August), along with occasional dry spells, especially in summer.
The terroir of Waiheke Island is defined by its ancient, “weathered” (LIKE ME!) soils, rich in “clay” and derived from Jurassic sedimentary rock (minus the “dinosaurs”). These “low-fertility,” well-draining soils help the vines produce smaller berries with concentrated flavors, sugars, and “acids” (THE GOOD KIND!).
Waiheke is especially known for its elegant Bordeaux-style blends (mainly Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot), peppery Syrah, and highly underrated, vibrant Chardonnay.
WINERIES ON WAIHEKE
We landed at Auckland Airport shortly before 7am and we went straight to the ferry. By 10am we were sipping wine at our first winery on Waiheke island. Our first victim?
Mudbrick Vineyard
Mudbrick's first vines were planted by Robyn and Nick Jones in 1992, and today the vineyards span four unique sites across Waiheke Island. They grow a range of red and white grape varieties, using traditional, hands-on techniques like handpicking and gentle pressing to craft wines with depth and character. The diversity of microclimates and terrain across their properties allow them to blend for complexity, producing wines that have earned accolades, like their Velvet Cabernet blend and vibrant Chardonnay. We tasted through a bunch of what they had to offer, and while it was all amazing, we decided to leave with a bottle of the 2024 Oscar Syrah. It was incredibly complex and beautifully structured, featuring tons of black pepper, spice, and dark fruit notes.
Obviously, only visiting one winery on our first day “wasn’t in the cards,” so after we dropped our bags in Oneroa Village (where we stayed at a charming bungalow also occupied by the world’s least inviting spider), we unleashed ourselves on two more wineries: Stonyridge Vineyard and SOHO Family Vineyards.
Stonyridge Vineyard
Stonyridge Vineyard was founded on Waiheke Island in the early 1980s by Stephen White. Inspired by Mediterranean wine culture, he planted Bordeaux varietals and olive trees in 1982, creating the country’s first commercial olive grove and Bordeaux four-blend. We tasted through some really great reds and whites during our visit, including the 2020 vintage of their acclaimed “Larose” Bordeaux blend.
Pro-tip: They sell glasses of this in their restaurant area for $75 a pop, but you can “taste” around 1/3 glass pour of it alongside numerous other premium wines on the premium flight for just $25 if you head to their “cellar door” (also on site).
DID YOU KNOW… In New Zealand, tasting rooms are called “Cellar Doors.” How quaint.
SOHO Family Vineyards
After Stonyridge, we walked just next door to SOHO Family Vineyards, which is a huge vibe shift. Far more casual and bohemian, SOHO was founded by Rachael Carter, and produces an array of red, white and rose wines. We just stopped in for a glass, trying a Bordeaux style blend and a Sauv Blanc (sorry for being basic). We enjoyed slowing down to a single glass after palate fatigue set in, enjoying the scenery (someone please identify these birds) and taking a walk along the little creekside path behind the tasting room.
Casita Miro Vineyard
For our last winery stop (on Waiheke – we’d eventually sip our way through nine vineyards and countless wine bars on the 12-day trip), we “celebrated” our “wedding anniversary” with an awesome tapas style lunch at Casita Miro.
Casita Miro Vineyard, located in Onetangi on Waiheke Island, features a 4.2-”hectare” vineyard alongside the acclaimed Casita Miro tapas restaurant with stunning views of the vines and sea. The vineyard focuses on red grapes like Syrah and Bordeaux varietals, as well as Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Albarino, and Viognier. The Bond family has been growing grapes and running the vineyard and restaurant for over 25 years, with their unique outdoor Bond Bar showcasing a mosaic inspired by Gaudi’s work.
Waiheke Dos and Don’ts
Do
Stay in Oneroa Village: This centrally located little hamlet offered many walkable options for restaurants, coffee shops, and more. We especially enjoyed Akito Eatery for coffee and pastries in the morning and Fenice Cafe & Restaurant for dinner.
Visit wineries other than the ones we’ve recommended! A couple great ones we’ve visited in the past include Tantalus and Obsidian, but needless to say, there are more to be discovered.
Don’t
Use the Hop On / Hop Off tour bus to travel the island: There’s a very easy to understand public bus system that costs a fraction of what the Hop On / Hop Off buses charge.
Four wineries, one spider (we named him Friedrich), a “billion gazillion” pours. Waiheke gave us awesome wines, stunning ocean views, and a strong start to our mini wine tour of New Zealand.
Needless to say, get packed and “head there” immediately, but if for some inexplicable reason you need a little extra motivation to jump on a 12 to 17 hour flight over open ocean (UNLIKE ME) to experience the “terroir” first hand, hit a quick Google search for the USD to NZD exchange rate right now. Let’s just say it’s “the good kind.”
If New Zealand wine country doesn’t make your travel list after this, not only can’t we help you - NO ONE CAN.
Until next time, HAPPY DRINKING PEOPLE.
Cheers!
Isaac & Zach (& Victoria)
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Never knew a gaggle was the correct collective noun for flightless winos - terrific piece as always team. Sadly we only spent a day on Waiheke (and most of that was in the sea!) but the wines coming out of there are superb!