WAKE UP AND SMELL THE NOBLE ROT, YOU THIRSTY LITTLE WINOS!
It’s time to drag your tannin-stained carcasses out of bed because today we're diving headfirst into the shallow end of the wonderfully refreshing world of white wines. This week, we’re giving our purple teeth a short break while we “appreciate” the crisp, refreshing and sometimes “complex” flavors of Bordeaux’s dry and sweet white wines.
White Bordeaux wines, often overshadowed by their “objectively superior” red counterparts, are a remarkable yet “underappreciated category” in the wine world. Known for their crispness, complexity, quality, and often very good value, these humble wines primarily consist of blends featuring Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, with some producers also incorporating small amounts of a pungent little grape variety I like to call “Muscadelle” (other people call it that too). The region of Bordeaux is historically significant for white wine production, with Sauvignon Blanc (one of the parent grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon) believed to have originated there. Today, white wines account for about 10% of Bordeaux's total production which includes both dry and sweet styles.
Arguably the most esteemed white wines from Bordeaux are the Sémillon based dessert wines from Sauternes, which are lusciously sweet and can age for decades in their “glass cages.”
For a little more about the red wines of Bordeaux check out one of these previous posts:
DID YOU KNOW… Noble rot is what gives the wines of Sauternes their concentrated flavors and sweetness. But when botrytis cinerea (the fungus that causes noble rot) grows on the grapes in less favorable conditions, it is referred to as grey rot, which can destroy entire crops.
Dry White Bordeaux
The dry white wines of Bordeaux are typically blends dominated by Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. These wines tend to have bright acidity, citrus and green fruit flavors (lime, lemon, grapefruit, green apple), and notes of herbs or grass from Sauvignon Blanc. The Sémillon adds body and richness, sometimes with waxy or honeyed characteristics. Aging in oak barrels is used by some producers to impart creamy or vanilla notes.
The top regions for dry white Bordeaux wines include Pessac-Léognan and Graves, where the finest examples are often barrel-aged and capable of long aging. The Entre-Deux-Mers region produces more affordable, fresh, and fruity dry whites.
Sweet White Bordeaux
Sweet white Bordeaux is made primarily from Sémillon, with some Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. The Sémillon grape's susceptibility to the intrepid little fungus Botrytis cinerea, along with the ideal climatic conditions in certain parts of Southern Bordeaux, are essential for producing sweet wines. Characterized by cool, misty mornings followed by warm, sunny afternoons, this unfathomably wholesome environment allows the noble rot to penetrate the grape skins, releasing juice and concentrating the sugars and flavors in the berries as the water evaporates during the daytime. This daytime drying is critical because it curtails the growth of the fungus enough to prevent it from teetering into “grey rot territory” which can destroy the crop. The result is a rich, complex wine with honeyed notes and vibrant fruit flavors, making regions like Sauternes and Barsac famous for these “luxurious” dessert wines. Finding the perfect conditions for noble rot is quite rare, which contributes to the exclusivity and high demand for these highly overrated sweet wines.
These wines typically show lush, honeyed flavors with ripe tropical fruits (pineapple, mango, apricot), marmalade, and rich sweetness balanced by acidity. The “noble rot” can add some complexity with notes of spice, ginger, and saffron.
Both styles showcase the versatility of Bordeaux (LIKE TODAY’S YOUTH) in white wine production, offering everything from refreshing aperitif-style wines to world-class sweet dessert wines. For those looking to explore Bordeaux whites without flattening your already thin wallet, consider trying Entre-Deux-Mers for affordable, “easy-drinking” dry whites, Pessac-Léognan or Graves for more complex, oak-aged dry whites, and Sauternes or Barsac for rich, decadent sweet wines. Today, we “took the liberty” of tasting a variety of dry white Bordeaux wines as well as the highly esteemed Sauternes.
Profile: Crushed sea shell, flint, grapefruit, lemon peel, grass, pineapple, jasmine Palate: Dry, high acid, light body, long finish
Really awesome wine from winemaker Michele D’Aprix, an American woman who makes a range of awesome wines in Bordeaux. Will be featuring more of her wines in future posts (hopefully with some insights from Michele herself), but in the meantime, if you have a chance to grab a bottle please do. Distribution is somewhat limited, but the value is 🔥🔥🔥.
Profile: Grapefruit, lemon peel, honeydew melon, ripe peach, mango, perfume, crushed rock, fresh cut grass, chamomile, white flowers Palate: Dry, high acid, medium+ body, long finish
Blend: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon
This was a wonderful little “value play” in the category of “white Bordeaux.” The aromatics were very intense with citrus, tropical fruits, minerality and floral aromas. The wine was well structured with bright “refreshing” acidity, good concentration and a long “memorable” finish. Highly recommend seeking this out at the unhinged price of $12.
Profile: Melon, lemon peel, subtle pineapple, sea shells, white flowers Palate: Dry, high acid, light body, short finish
This was a very light and simple style of white Bordeaux with decent freshness and acidity, but it severely lacked concentration and complexity, making it a relatively forgettable effort, which I already forgot about.
Profile: Lemon, grapefruit, peach, pineapple, grass, crushed rock, white flowers, Palate: Dry, high acid, medium body, long finish
Blend: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon
A well made White Bordeaux with citrus, tropical fruits, minerality and floral character, backed by crisp acidity and a long finish. I wouldn’t turn this down if offered a glass of it, but I wouldn’t seek it out either. There are better quality options at even lower prices.
Profile: Honey, tangerine, rose, honeysuckle, ripe apricot, white peach, lychee, caramel Palate: Lusciously sweet, high acidity, full body, long finish
Blend: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Lusciously sweet with good acidity and a very long finish. Probably could benefit from a bit more age to develop intrigue and complexity. All around a little sweet to drink on its own for my tastes (unless you’re craving something cloying) but really nice when paired with another sweet (it paired incredibly with a dark chocolate mousse & sliced plum), or the classic salty/savory pairing (e.g. bleu cheese) to help balance the sweetness.
In spite of flying a bit more under the radar (today comprising only about 10% of total wine produced in the region), white Bordeaux is a great source of value and offers enough range to appeal to almost any palate.
If you haven’t had a chance to explore a few different styles, do yourself a favor and grab some this weekend, lock yourself in a dark room, and drink your way into the light.
I enjoyed learning about noble rot as well as white Bordeaux wines!
Tried a white Merlot the other day. Can’t pretend it blew me away, but there’s certainly more to Bordeaux than the reds they’re most famous for!